Alright I was under the assumption that they might be bad.. but again speaking with several shops.. most have told me that these may go bad at or around the 79-90K mark and true we are nearing the 70K mark.. I can't say that these would replaced anytime soon unless I can find another shop that would give me a detailed inspection as shown in the video..

I noticed that you posted your number.. soon after this.. if you're viewing this conversation strictly as a sale.. I'm sorry to disappoint you.. the breadwinner in the family has the say on what we need to do next.. Thou I will keep your subliminal suggestion close at hand..

 

No worries, just trying to help out. Typically the 07-08 JK Balljoints failed very early due to their poor design.

 

2: death wobble is not rocket science, there are a finite number of things that can actually cause full on death wobble, not just a shimmy. in reading your posts, it is clear you have no idea what contributes and causes it. Do a lot more research and if you think firestone or any other chain would actually diagnose or even understand death wobble youre crazy. unless you go to a reputable jeep 4x4 shop that deals with lifts youre wasting your time, and not all of them are good, i had one set my fuel lines on fire welding on sliders.

TPMS are pointless, do break easily, and should not be relied on, but they have nothing to do with death wobble, again you need to research instead of just throwing out guesses

I had full on death wobble and what I did was not drive it at all until it was fixed, less than a week later. In my case it was the axle side track bar joint that had play along with my caster being too low for my lift. I had replaced my TB bolts immediately after i bought it with the 9/16 bolts, everyone should do this.

If you have DW- don't drive it until you fix it, youre just going to cause other things to wear out and make it harder to diagnose/fix.

read more, and actually try to figure it out yourself.

 

Nailed it.....

Sent from my LG-LS980 using JK-Forum

 

^ ^ ^ completely agree with the posts above. Do your homework, stop relying on people who have no idea what they're looking at. It's not hard to go take out a few bolts and retighten them. Go learn, crawl underneath and get dirty. I bought my Jeep with no idea how to do anything to it. After lots and lots of research I was able to mod it all myself (except welding). I'm still learning everyday on this forum, we've got hundreds of smart guys on here to help everyone out.

 

Only one thing displays symptoms of DW.

It's not your steering box. I've had steering boxes with a 1/4 steering wheel play and no DW. Although, DW can be initiated by an off-center steering wheel when the ESP kicks in.

It's not your ball joints. Worn ball joints can cause shimmy that can initiate DW but they are not the root cause.

Same with out of balance tires.

Too little caster can make DW worse but once again it's not the reason DW exists.

No, DW is caused by only one thing. The front axel is moving side-to-side relative to the Jeep's frame. As the axel travels to the right the drag link pulls the front of the tires causing a sharp steer to the left. That launches the axel to the left causing the drag link to steer the wheels back to the right. The axel shuttling left and right rapidly is what DW really is.

The only thing that stops the axel from moving left and right is the Panhard bar (also called track bar). Assuming the bar itself is not damaged, the only culprit can be the attachment points. The bolts and bushings are usually the problem but sometimes, the axel or frame brackets (especially when extended for a lift) can be flexing or shifting.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.



Picture of a Panhard Dynamic. It was made by the company that invented that track bar thing we love to hate. It has turn signals, dual brake circuits, unibody, independent front suspension and center steering wheel position. Way ahead of its time.

 

Agreed, my issue was the worn joint, but my caster probably helped wear it faster and then initiate the death wobble. The technical term for death wobble and that side to side is oscillation if you want to get nerdy!

Can't find much info about the specific designs but if that car was IFS it would only have a panhard in the rear - still on leaf springs? odd design if that were the case, but it appears it was from france so what do you expect.

 

Im just going to throw this out there as i just fixed my DW:

Causes:

Bent front axle tube
Shot Balljoints

Fix:

Sleves and Truss
New balljoints.

100% fixed. No isses. I then upgraded the rest of my front steering just to be safe.

This was on a 2012 2DR Sport @ 34,000KM.

GLHF

 

Replaced or was the tube straightened ?


2007 Rubicon /2 door/6 speed

 

Actually, the car in the picture is a 1936 Panhard Dynamic. Even though Panhard invented the track (Panhard) bar, the Dynamic had fully (4-wheel) independent suspension with torsion bars. So, this Panhard didn't have a Panhard.

Maybe Fiat will realize one day that unibody and fully independent suspension is not so bad for a Jeep. After all, the last and longest used "jeeps" for the military had both. (M151 MUTT) Sad to say but... Ford had a better idea. (No solid axel so no Death Wobble!)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M151_Tr...,_l/4-Ton,_4x4,




Amazing what you find a some classic car shows. I never miss our little gathering in Lakeland, Florida:
Lake Mirror Classic | One of the premier regional automobile shows in the southeastern United States | Lakeland, Florida, October 17-19 2014 | Classic and Collector Auto Show, Concours d'Elegance


Here's a pic of the Panhard Dynamic's center steering. Great for the guy with 2 wing men (or 2 GFs, or wife and mistress, etc)