Death Wobble After Bumps @ 60 MPH+ RK 2.5 Stock Mod Kit
#41
When you fix the DW, please let us know what you did, especially if the washers helped. All too often people have these problems and fix them, but never come back to post what the solution was.
thanks!
thanks!
#43
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#45
Trackbar Washers
if your Trackbar holes were wallowed and casuing DW, chances are your bushes also have taken a flogging, Check your bushes thoroughly. I had just had the same issue, and welded 5mm Chromolly washes in. I noticed my bushes looked suspect, and also noticed thread marks inside the bush sleeve. Upon further inspection, i also noticed the inside diamiter of the bush is 9/16, and not 14mm, you you may want to look at a new 9/16 bolt that is sleeved and not threaded all the way through the bush. The holes in the trackbar brackets were never 14mm from factory anyway, also why the wallow so easily.
Worth a look.
Tom
Worth a look.
Tom
#46
Former Vendor
Sir
From our experience and given your situation, if you can verify that the track bar from us is tight at all connections and the jam nuts are tight, the next logical place would be the TRE on the drag link at the steering knuckle. That is typically the first one to go bad. It is also hard for most people to tell since it does not typically show any radial slop, but it will show some axial slop or slight up and down movement.
Have you had your vehicle aligned? If so, what was the specs.
Also, we are only right across the boarder in NY, so if you want to swing over we will take a quick look at it for you and get you taken care of...
Give us a shout at 518-270-9822 and we will be more than happy to help you out.
What makes your situation difficult is the fact that you had the issue prior to installing the lift, so we need to check what has been done as well as the existing parts.
Rock Krawler
From our experience and given your situation, if you can verify that the track bar from us is tight at all connections and the jam nuts are tight, the next logical place would be the TRE on the drag link at the steering knuckle. That is typically the first one to go bad. It is also hard for most people to tell since it does not typically show any radial slop, but it will show some axial slop or slight up and down movement.
Have you had your vehicle aligned? If so, what was the specs.
Also, we are only right across the boarder in NY, so if you want to swing over we will take a quick look at it for you and get you taken care of...
Give us a shout at 518-270-9822 and we will be more than happy to help you out.
What makes your situation difficult is the fact that you had the issue prior to installing the lift, so we need to check what has been done as well as the existing parts.
Rock Krawler
#47
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Sir
From our experience and given your situation, if you can verify that the track bar from us is tight at all connections and the jam nuts are tight, the next logical place would be the TRE on the drag link at the steering knuckle. That is typically the first one to go bad. It is also hard for most people to tell since it does not typically show any radial slop, but it will show some axial slop or slight up and down movement.
Have you had your vehicle aligned? If so, what was the specs.
Also, we are only right across the boarder in NY, so if you want to swing over we will take a quick look at it for you and get you taken care of...
Give us a shout at 518-270-9822 and we will be more than happy to help you out.
What makes your situation difficult is the fact that you had the issue prior to installing the lift, so we need to check what has been done as well as the existing parts.
Rock Krawler
From our experience and given your situation, if you can verify that the track bar from us is tight at all connections and the jam nuts are tight, the next logical place would be the TRE on the drag link at the steering knuckle. That is typically the first one to go bad. It is also hard for most people to tell since it does not typically show any radial slop, but it will show some axial slop or slight up and down movement.
Have you had your vehicle aligned? If so, what was the specs.
Also, we are only right across the boarder in NY, so if you want to swing over we will take a quick look at it for you and get you taken care of...
Give us a shout at 518-270-9822 and we will be more than happy to help you out.
What makes your situation difficult is the fact that you had the issue prior to installing the lift, so we need to check what has been done as well as the existing parts.
Rock Krawler
Thanks! Ill most likely be making a trip in after the holidays! As long as you promise not to make fun of my welds on the track bar brackets.
And yes I know where the shop is, I picked up my lift kit direct from you guys
My new wheels/tires are going on Friday, the Toyos were backordered so once I get my wheels/tries and alignment done Im hoping the issue goes away. I checked the alignment out myself and it appeared to 1/8" toe in.
Before the dealer fixed my brakes/stablizer it was semi drivable & would go away with out applying the brakes and just letting off the gas. Now I have to come to a complete stop.
#48
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Just a follow up to all this non sense....
My DW went away when I put on my new wheels/tires. Not sure if this helps anyone else but I spent a lot of time under the jeep retorqing EVERYTHING multiple times & welding in washers on the track bar. Slapped new rims & tires and everythings gone.
It usually only happened when I went over bridge expansion joints but now I just get a little shake and thats it. Im still driving with white knuckles afraid its going to happen but ive put about 400 miles and no DW.
Hope this helps anyone....
My DW went away when I put on my new wheels/tires. Not sure if this helps anyone else but I spent a lot of time under the jeep retorqing EVERYTHING multiple times & welding in washers on the track bar. Slapped new rims & tires and everythings gone.
It usually only happened when I went over bridge expansion joints but now I just get a little shake and thats it. Im still driving with white knuckles afraid its going to happen but ive put about 400 miles and no DW.
Hope this helps anyone....
#49
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That's because death wobble is ALWAYS caused by imbalanced tires. All these other secondary things (e.g. loose fasteners, steering geometry, stabilizer tweaks, etc.) will at best suppress the effect that imbalanced tires have in bringing unwanted feedback to the vehicle. Of course these secondary effects should be corrected if possible.
Most people don't understand this, but you've proven again this point. Good work.
Most people don't understand this, but you've proven again this point. Good work.
#50
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The off road shop I use has already had 2 JK's that had worn out ball joints with only 15,000 miles on them. One guy had driven the AL-Can Highway, and the other wheeled his JK pretty hard. Add these to the trackbar check.