Death Wobble – My Experience
#21
I know that my experience might be completely different from others who have fixed their wobble...but here's my .02 cents...
I now have an aev lift and no problems but when I was stock I had only 4000 km before I started getting death wobble. My steering stabilizer was shot...
What I didn't like was he stock track bar it just didnt seem strong and had a weird curve to it. I swapped it with an adjustable teraflex Monster HD and got the "upgraded" stock stabilizer from mopar that comes with the brackets and I drove it tht way for 40,000km with no problems...
That was just my experience.
I now have an aev lift and no problems but when I was stock I had only 4000 km before I started getting death wobble. My steering stabilizer was shot...
What I didn't like was he stock track bar it just didnt seem strong and had a weird curve to it. I swapped it with an adjustable teraflex Monster HD and got the "upgraded" stock stabilizer from mopar that comes with the brackets and I drove it tht way for 40,000km with no problems...
That was just my experience.
#22
I have owned my JK since 2007, and experienced DW shortly after doing my lift,,tires, etc. , and from what I've read the SS has absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with DW. In fact, a well tuned susspension does not need a SS. I had all modifications professionally done so they are done right, yet still DW and after numerous trips to the shop, it didn't go away. THEN......Teraflex came out with their HD Frame Brace and Drag Link Flip Kit.
| TeraFlex Suspensions
The offroad shop all but guaranteed this will cure the problem, and they were right. I suggest you do your own research, but I would use this cure again in a heartbeat.
| TeraFlex Suspensions
The offroad shop all but guaranteed this will cure the problem, and they were right. I suggest you do your own research, but I would use this cure again in a heartbeat.
#23
In the near future, my Diagnosing Death Wobble write-up thread should be reinstated.
Here are the videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9uQwlmlhiF4&list=UUKzIyplv3FIj1EXoFsRG0qg&index=5 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ii81V7XYr-k&list=UUKzIyplv3FIj1EXoFsRG0qg
Here are the videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9uQwlmlhiF4&list=UUKzIyplv3FIj1EXoFsRG0qg&index=5 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ii81V7XYr-k&list=UUKzIyplv3FIj1EXoFsRG0qg
#25
x2. Also want to make sure they go with the nylocks (locking nuts).
#26
I have owned my JK since 2007, and experienced DW shortly after doing my lift,,tires, etc. , and from what I've read the SS has absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with DW. In fact, a well tuned susspension does not need a SS. I had all modifications professionally done so they are done right, yet still DW and after numerous trips to the shop, it didn't go away. THEN......Teraflex came out with their HD Frame Brace and Drag Link Flip Kit.
| TeraFlex Suspensions
The offroad shop all but guaranteed this will cure the problem, and they were right. I suggest you do your own research, but I would use this cure again in a heartbeat.
| TeraFlex Suspensions
The offroad shop all but guaranteed this will cure the problem, and they were right. I suggest you do your own research, but I would use this cure again in a heartbeat.
I have also done alot of reading and my findings are that, even a well tuned suspension, needs a SS. I back my point by having read more than a few instances of JKs that are almost new, in the 10K miles range, and are STOCK, getting the DW. At this point with stock wheels and tires the ball joints and TREs can't be worn out yet. Certianly the issues with the bolts could have started to show but even then, how bad could it be at this point? I think that if you drive in an area riddled with huge pot holes, lots of train tracks, frost heave in the roads, gravel haulers etc., that the chances for DW are far greater, even with a "well tuned suspension". 45~50 mph and the FR tire seem to be the ticket.
I think that you are absolutly correct in the thought that a kit like there TeraFlex is needed to to really cure the issue. I seen planmans videos above and they are excelent and very helpful, but my components were not wore out like the example that he presents. What I was trying to diagnose is a STOCK vehicle that had new tie rod and new ends on the pitman arm and the upgraded trac bar bolts and still managed to blow out a brand new Rancho SS and then the DW within 4 weeks of installing. It seemed that the only thing keeping it from DW was the SS till it blew out. I then drove 1000 white-knucle miles without a SS till I got this whole other parts issue worked out.
I am not claiming to be an expert, these are just my exeriences and observations. I would much rather be spending my time and money under my jeep installing parts more enjoyable than TREs and ball joints. I would also like to be on this site discussing my/your new lift or the ride last weekend.
Cheers,
#27
I have also done alot of reading and my findings are that, even a well tuned suspension, needs a SS. I back my point by having read more than a few instances of JKs that are almost new, in the 10K miles range, and are STOCK, getting the DW. At this point with stock wheels and tires the ball joints and TREs can't be worn out yet. Certianly the issues with the bolts could have started to show but even then, how bad could it be at this point? I think that if you drive in an area riddled with huge pot holes, lots of train tracks, frost heave in the roads, gravel haulers etc., that the chances for DW are far greater, even with a "well tuned suspension". 45~50 mph and the FR tire seem to be the ticket.
I think that you are absolutly correct in the thought that a kit like there TeraFlex is needed to to really cure the issue. I seen planmans videos above and they are excelent and very helpful, but my components were not wore out like the example that he presents. What I was trying to diagnose is a STOCK vehicle that had new tie rod and new ends on the pitman arm and the upgraded trac bar bolts and still managed to blow out a brand new Rancho SS and then the DW within 4 weeks of installing. It seemed that the only thing keeping it from DW was the SS till it blew out. I then drove 1000 white-knucle miles without a SS till I got this whole other parts issue worked out.
I am not claiming to be an expert, these are just my exeriences and observations. I would much rather be spending my time and money under my jeep installing parts more enjoyable than TREs and ball joints. I would also like to be on this site discussing my/your new lift or the ride last weekend.
Cheers,
I think that you are absolutly correct in the thought that a kit like there TeraFlex is needed to to really cure the issue. I seen planmans videos above and they are excelent and very helpful, but my components were not wore out like the example that he presents. What I was trying to diagnose is a STOCK vehicle that had new tie rod and new ends on the pitman arm and the upgraded trac bar bolts and still managed to blow out a brand new Rancho SS and then the DW within 4 weeks of installing. It seemed that the only thing keeping it from DW was the SS till it blew out. I then drove 1000 white-knucle miles without a SS till I got this whole other parts issue worked out.
I am not claiming to be an expert, these are just my exeriences and observations. I would much rather be spending my time and money under my jeep installing parts more enjoyable than TREs and ball joints. I would also like to be on this site discussing my/your new lift or the ride last weekend.
Cheers,
On stock JKs, it starts with the front trackbar bolts either not properly torqued from the factory, or suspension cycling loosening the bolts and the owner neglecting to retorque the front trackbar bolts at every oil change interval.
With the front trackbar bolts holding less than recommended torque specs, the fact that the factory uses fully threaded 14mm bolts in a larger than 9/16" bracket bolt hole and trackbar bushing bolt sleeve that is larger than 9/16" aggravates the problem.
The wobble vibrations from the loose trackbar bolts allow the threads eat to away at the bracket holes (ovaling them) and at the bushing bolt sleeve.
In the meantime, the factory steering stabilizer is working to mask the developing problems.
Overworked, eventually the factory steering stabilizer fails, the JK experiences full-on violent, rip-your-front-end-apart death wobble, and several other components get damaged from the loose trackbar bolts initiated death wobble. If not immediately fixed, the death wobble damages the ball joints, tie rod and drag link ends, front upper control arm bushings, and even steering box/sector shaft.
If the person fails to fix the source(s) of the death wobble and simply installs a new steering stabilizer, by the time that new steering stabilizer also fails prematurely, substantial damage is most always done to the front end components.
Long story short, the problem isn't the steering stabilizer on a factory, un-modified JK (or TJ, XJ, Grand Cherokee, Dodge Ram, or any other solid front axle rig with a trackbar and control arms).