ronjenx

Probably not a big factor, but wouldn't effective caster change as the spindle height changes?
As the spindle rises due to larger tires, the "kingpin" axis would intersect the ground farther ahead of the tire's point of contact.

planman

The degree angle does not change.

4 degrees is still 4 degrees, even with taller tires.

ronjenx

I know. That's why I said effective caster, and went on to say the "kingpin" axis would intersect the ground farther ahead of the tire's point of contact.
So, I'm wondering if that makes a difference. Seems to me it would.

rt chips

It just seems so weird that all of this dw came about once and then all of a sudden continuously when increasing the vehicle speed over 40. And that this all occured once I placed my old tires with spacers back on. Visually the tires look good and have the weights on them. Ronjenx just found a post of yours on how to check out the ball joints. I'll do that tonight or tomorrow. Any other suggestions?

planman

Death Wobble is not speed dependent and not easily repeatable.

You need to read this thread: https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-w...obbles-260145/

This is Death Wobble:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwiv23dLhMY&feature=player_embedded

wittys-jk

I had a similar problem when I was getting my beadlocks installed I switched to a set of stock tires and wheels after having 35's and spacers and I experienced DW for the first time. In the week that I had them on I had to also keep my speed under 40 to avoid it from happening. I did the same thing and checked and rechecked everything and couldn't figure it out. I got my beadlocks and 35's and in the process installed a set of AEV control arm drop brackets and it all went away. I have driven over ruts on the highway or imperfections that I would have normally avoided and the ride is solid with no play. I know I will need ball joints soon as mine are ready to be changed and I wonder if that had something to do with the DW and the lighter tires that I had on there. I have been good for over 6 months now so I am not complaining. Good luck figuring it out.

rt chips

Thanks planman. I have read through that a few times. I was just hoping I missed something while I was switching tires out with the lift on or something. Just looking for some type of hope full words in dealing with this. I know the adjustable track bar will help center the axle, do you think this will help? Did the bolts I used to replace the track bar bolts need to be of a specific type of metal. They are grade 8 but they weren't very expensive, wondering if the type would matter. Sorry this seems redundant and there is so much information on dw I should be able to find a fix.

rt chips

Wittys jk, I'm looking at those drop brakes.
Did you have the aev lift?
I have the 2.5 coil lift by tera flex. It looks like if I measure accordingly to there installation this would help. Are you able to adjust castor after this or not? Seems like a reasonable price to install these.

planman

The tire swap exposed some other weakness.

There is no magic bullet. You need to do the entire inspection checklist. It isn't caused by an off center axle. Shouldered, 9/16", fine thread grade 8 bolts are an upgrade, but if your bracket holes are ovaled out or your bushings are damaged, the bolts won't fix the problem.

wittys-jk

I have a 3" coil lift by teraflex and set the control arm to the middle bolt setting (there are 3 setting depending on your lift) as recommended by the instructions and that is about it. Like Planman said, do your due diligence and check everything to be sure and assure yourself that you don't have some other masked issue. Look at it this way you will learn a lot about your suspension in the process.