Dana 60's
#1
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Dana 60's
Well after months of reviewing and reading up on all brands and options I have finally ordered my Dana 60's. Thanks to all the threads trying to figure out what gearing and locker to use and brand of coarse. I'm going with the Dana 60 G2 Rock Jock with 4:88 and ARB'S front and rear. Hopefully a great decision.
#3
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
I don't think it's a full float. 5on 5 bolt pattern from what I see factory length. And with the 4:88 and my terd 3.8 37" is the best. Was thinking 40's but I also contacted the outfit that will be doing my diesel conversion and he recommended that gearing for either 37's or 40's with the B4.
#5
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
I have 2 options. One bruiser has an affiliate in Wyoming I do believe. They are the ones I talked with over the phone. But my mechanic that works on all my company trucks says he can do it as well. He is out of Pueblo. Called Precision Autoworkz.
#6
I dont mean to sound rude but I think you made a mistake by going semi float as it is a marginal improvement at best. If you are shelling out that kind of cash, a full float is definitely the way to go.
I have an supercharged 3.8 in mine and 5.13s were definitely the way to go with 37s up here at altitude. I dont think the 4.88s are going to give you enough umph until you do your engine swap.
Lastly, I dont know what county you live in so it may not matter, but I am almost positive a diesel swap wont pass emissions if you are in Denver.
I have an supercharged 3.8 in mine and 5.13s were definitely the way to go with 37s up here at altitude. I dont think the 4.88s are going to give you enough umph until you do your engine swap.
Lastly, I dont know what county you live in so it may not matter, but I am almost positive a diesel swap wont pass emissions if you are in Denver.
#7
JK Freak
I dont mean to sound rude but I think you made a mistake by going semi float as it is a marginal improvement at best. If you are shelling out that kind of cash, a full float is definitely the way to go. I have an supercharged 3.8 in mine and 5.13s were definitely the way to go with 37s up here at altitude. I dont think the 4.88s are going to give you enough umph until you do your engine swap. Lastly, I dont know what county you live in so it may not matter, but I am almost positive a diesel swap wont pass emissions if you are in Denver.
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#8
JK Enthusiast
Not rude one bit, in fact I'm glad someone said it because I was biting my tongue. I've never understood putting a semi float 60 in the rear. The only time I've "understood" people doing that is because they have a 44 in the front and are trying to maintain the same bolt pattern.
#9
JK Freak
Even then it's not really logical.. The rear 44 is plenty strong enough when comparing to a semi float rear 60. Yes you get a stronger rear pinion and housing but thanks to weak unit bearings your limited to a 37 max tire size... Plenty of guys keep the rear 44 locked or not and at most you see bent shafts, but just throw in some chromo's and good to go. Is it stronger? Yes... But to what extent and cost... Maintaining a rear 44 is much cheaper than replacing it with a semi float while staying with a 37 max. It just seems like money gone without any real gain