Dana 44's and 37's
07-22-2015, 12:19 PM
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JK Freak
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Dana 44's and 37's
As some of you know, I traded my 2011 2door in on a 2015 JKU Rubicon. Planning on a 4" lift and 37" Nitto Trail grapplers. Going with Adams DS front and back. The lift may be a Rubicon but not sure yet. Looking at ProComp also, among a few others. Question is, the axels should be just fine with 37's right?
07-22-2015, 12:26 PM
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JK Junkie
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Gusset the c's and sleeve it to be safe. Should be ok. Some ppl break the d44 on stock tires though. That said I know a guy that's running his rubicon on 37s with stock axles(no gussets or sleeves). He's heavy on beadlocks and armored. He drags his in rock Gardens all the time with not problems
07-22-2015, 12:29 PM
#3
JK Junkie
Negative, Ghost Rider. 37s are a lot to ask the stock axle, especially the heavy Nittos. Gussets are a must. I wouldn't wheel it without a truss. Expect steering parts to wear quickly (ball joints, drag link ends, tie rod ends).
As for wheels, you are going to want 3.5" back space to avoid rubbing. Regarding the lift, I'd keep looking. Also, that is a lot of lift, which will create less than ideal steering angles. You will want adjustable arms up front at the least. More than likely a drag link flip up front as well. Or, spare yourself the pain and keep it lower. I think most people these days run 2.5"-3.5" of lift for 37s. I think 2.5" is ideal.
As for wheels, you are going to want 3.5" back space to avoid rubbing. Regarding the lift, I'd keep looking. Also, that is a lot of lift, which will create less than ideal steering angles. You will want adjustable arms up front at the least. More than likely a drag link flip up front as well. Or, spare yourself the pain and keep it lower. I think most people these days run 2.5"-3.5" of lift for 37s. I think 2.5" is ideal.
07-22-2015, 12:30 PM
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JK Freak
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Gusset the c's and sleeve it to be safe. Should be ok. Some ppl break the d44 on stock tires though. That said I know a guy that's running his rubicon on 37s with stock axles(no gussets or sleeves). He's heavy on beadlocks and armored. He drags his in rock Gardens all the time with not problems
07-22-2015, 12:59 PM
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Negative, Ghost Rider. 37s are a lot to ask the stock axle, especially the heavy Nittos. Gussets are a must. I wouldn't wheel it without a truss. Expect steering parts to wear quickly (ball joints, drag link ends, tie rod ends).
As for wheels, you are going to want 3.5" back space to avoid rubbing. Regarding the lift, I'd keep looking. Also, that is a lot of lift, which will create less than ideal steering angles. You will want adjustable arms up front at the least. More than likely a drag link flip up front as well. Or, spare yourself the pain and keep it lower. I think most people these days run 2.5"-3.5" of lift for 37s. I think 2.5" is ideal.
As for wheels, you are going to want 3.5" back space to avoid rubbing. Regarding the lift, I'd keep looking. Also, that is a lot of lift, which will create less than ideal steering angles. You will want adjustable arms up front at the least. More than likely a drag link flip up front as well. Or, spare yourself the pain and keep it lower. I think most people these days run 2.5"-3.5" of lift for 37s. I think 2.5" is ideal.
That said....I wouldn't go any more than a 3.5" lift. I'm running a Rock Krawler 2.5 that actually yielded right at 3" and flat flares. One time over the course of the last four years....and it was this year in April....have I managed to make contact between the tires and the body, at least in the front. Rear pinch seams will have to be trimmed and bump stop added to keep the tires out of the tub. But in the front, I've had no issues aside from the tires rubbing the frame at full lock turning in either direction. And it's minor at that.
If you're set on 37's, be prepared to do whatever you can to strengthen your front axle. Full gusset kit at least, if not sleeves, too. I've been pretty lucky so far, but then again I don't wheel what I would consider "hard" either. I take it slow and steady, no bouncing, and don't push too hard. It's worked so far.
07-22-2015, 01:10 PM
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I'm running 37's on my d30 that's sleeved, gusset and has a RCV. I wheel mine pretty good and have no issues yet. I'd say you'd be fine depending on how hard you wheel.
rock
rock
07-22-2015, 01:19 PM
#7
JK Junkie
Yes and no. Is it possible to wheel on a stock axle with heavy 37" Trail Grapplers and no beef? Yes. Smart....probably not. But I've done it for nearly 4 years now with nothing more than upper c-gussets with no ill effects. I've definitely worn out steering parts, though, but that's to be expected with 35's, too. Ball joints (factory are shit anyway), tie rod (ends shot), drag link bent, steering dampener (actually damaged by rocks).....it's all been replaced.
That said....I wouldn't go any more than a 3.5" lift. I'm running a Rock Krawler 2.5 that actually yielded right at 3" and flat flares. One time over the course of the last four years....and it was this year in April....have I managed to make contact between the tires and the body, at least in the front. Rear pinch seams will have to be trimmed and bump stop added to keep the tires out of the tub. But in the front, I've had no issues aside from the tires rubbing the frame at full lock turning in either direction. And it's minor at that.
If you're set on 37's, be prepared to do whatever you can to strengthen your front axle. Full gusset kit at least, if not sleeves, too. I've been pretty lucky so far, but then again I don't wheel what I would consider "hard" either. I take it slow and steady, no bouncing, and don't push too hard. It's worked so far.
That said....I wouldn't go any more than a 3.5" lift. I'm running a Rock Krawler 2.5 that actually yielded right at 3" and flat flares. One time over the course of the last four years....and it was this year in April....have I managed to make contact between the tires and the body, at least in the front. Rear pinch seams will have to be trimmed and bump stop added to keep the tires out of the tub. But in the front, I've had no issues aside from the tires rubbing the frame at full lock turning in either direction. And it's minor at that.
If you're set on 37's, be prepared to do whatever you can to strengthen your front axle. Full gusset kit at least, if not sleeves, too. I've been pretty lucky so far, but then again I don't wheel what I would consider "hard" either. I take it slow and steady, no bouncing, and don't push too hard. It's worked so far.
I think this provides a realistic perspective. As noted, the steering parts go fast, even with 35s. Gussets are cheap insurance, and those weak Cs can bend even from a large pothole. Honestly, I think most of those stock parts should be replaced anyway, so it just helps speed the justification. It is worth highlighting though, as the cost for such upgrades can be $$$ for those that can't do their own work.
Breaking the axle housing is not as common and I have seen plenty that broke with a truss or sleeves. Now, I believe that bent tubes are far more common and that most people don't know they have a bent tube. I still suggest erring on the conservative side and adding sleeves or a truss. If you want to take the risk, just be aware that it could happen and understand the cost to replace. Running 37s does significantly increase the probability of such an event.
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07-22-2015, 02:17 PM
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JK Freak
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Ok. I'm staying with 35's...lol
I think I'm gonna go with a 3" lift with upgrades on ball joints and such. I had good clearance with a 3" BDS and 35" NTG's on my 2 door. I will be looking at a better ride than I got from the BDS though. I had Fox 2.0 shocks.
I think I'm gonna go with a 3" lift with upgrades on ball joints and such. I had good clearance with a 3" BDS and 35" NTG's on my 2 door. I will be looking at a better ride than I got from the BDS though. I had Fox 2.0 shocks.
07-23-2015, 04:34 AM
#9
JK Freak
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If you're sticking with 35's, consider a 2.5" lift to keep your centor of gravity lower. That will make your rig more stable both on and off road, plus you'll be less likely to have to start worrying about pinion angle, etc. Even with 35's, though, it's still a good idea to add in c-gussets and a truss kit. The Artec truss kit is one of the best I've seen and it's not terribly expensive as far as parts are concerned. Finding someone to burn it on for you is another story, but if you can weld or know someone that can, then you're in great shape. Just a matter of pulling the axle out from under your rig, pulling everything off of it and welding up the truss. Smart to do when you're doing your ball joints. I know when I had my c-gussets welded on, it ended upmelting the cheap plastic inserts inside my OEM ball joints. So if you're pulling the ball joints out to replace them anway, may as well have a truss kit welded on at the same time.
You won't regret 35's at all, though. That was my initial plan, but I caved to peer pressure because a buddy running the same lift I was getting threw 37's on his rig and I wasn't one to be outdone at the time. He no longer has a Jeep. But I'm glad I chose what I did and have no regrets.
Pics when you get everything installed and ready to wheel!
You won't regret 35's at all, though. That was my initial plan, but I caved to peer pressure because a buddy running the same lift I was getting threw 37's on his rig and I wasn't one to be outdone at the time. He no longer has a Jeep. But I'm glad I chose what I did and have no regrets.
Pics when you get everything installed and ready to wheel!
07-23-2015, 11:10 AM
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JK Freak
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If you're sticking with 35's, consider a 2.5" lift to keep your centor of gravity lower. That will make your rig more stable both on and off road, plus you'll be less likely to have to start worrying about pinion angle, etc. Even with 35's, though, it's still a good idea to add in c-gussets and a truss kit. The Artec truss kit is one of the best I've seen and it's not terribly expensive as far as parts are concerned. Finding someone to burn it on for you is another story, but if you can weld or know someone that can, then you're in great shape. Just a matter of pulling the axle out from under your rig, pulling everything off of it and welding up the truss. Smart to do when you're doing your ball joints. I know when I had my c-gussets welded on, it ended upmelting the cheap plastic inserts inside my OEM ball joints. So if you're pulling the ball joints out to replace them anway, may as well have a truss kit welded on at the same time. You won't regret 35's at all, though. That was my initial plan, but I caved to peer pressure because a buddy running the same lift I was getting threw 37's on his rig and I wasn't one to be outdone at the time. He no longer has a Jeep. But I'm glad I chose what I did and have no regrets. Pics when you get everything installed and ready to wheel!