ShutterBug

I picked up a couple of Rubicon take offs. However, the stock pinion flanges were replaced with pinion yokes. In an effort to not have to replace me stock rear drive shaft or my 1 month old Adams drive shaft, I'd like to replace the yokes with stock flanges.

Anyone have a set of Rubicon Dana 44 pinion flanges they would like to get rid of?

scubatech

I just cut the stock flange off mine and bolted the u joint to the yoke. That u joint is sealed in with a wax product infused into it so it's not serviceable and didn't want to press out of the shaft. I bet someone has a flange laying around as they are not popular on the Forums.

ShutterBug

bump.

Invest2m4

Why can't you use the Adams shaft? Isn't it a 1310 joint with a flange adapter? You can ditch the adapter and use the yoke.

ShutterBug

I'm concerned it may not be long enough after the adapter is removed. This is not an area with which I have a lot (any) experience.

The rear shaft is still stock and I plan on keeping it that way until I break it or find some other reason to replace it.

I can always use the flanges off my stock axles, but I was trying to avoid that, for no particular reason.

ScottW

When I bought my driveshafts from Adams they said the difference in length between a flange shaft and a yoke shaft was only about an inch. Call them and they'll tell you if your length is ok, they are very helpful.

scubatech

Shutterbug,

My front shaft works fine without the adaptor. I had it rebalanced though because of the weight of the adaptor being removed. I think it's the most affordable route.

Invest2m4

Agree. Front should be fine. There is a lot of adjustability. I had an Adams and mentioned I'd be stretching the front at some point and they said even a couple inches would be fine.

Personally, I prefer to avoid removing the pinion yoke. The correct process is a huge pain. Some people get away with swapping and torquing to say 160 ft lbs. Others do it and burn the pinion bearing up in no time.

The correct process is to remove the axle shafts and measure the pinion preload. Then new yoke goes on and you torque until the preload is slightly more or less (I forget which way it is). The bigger challenge is that preload is around 18" lbs. Good luck finding an accurate torque wrench for that.

Some mark the pinion nut, but the issue there is you should absolutely use a new pinion nut. Over torque and you crush the crush sleeve more and that's bad news. Under torque and that is also no good. The torque range could be anywhere from 150-300 ft lbs.

ShutterBug

Adams told me the flange can be removed and it might work since the D44 requires are shorter shaft than the D30 anyway. I'd likely have to have it rebalanced as well.

But that means I will likely need to get a new rear shaft. Ugh.

Invest2m4

You shouldn't need to balance the front since it isn't under load. Try without. If you need to, it won't be much at a local driveline shop.

Andy can get the flange swapped on the rear for you. He knows what he is doing. Just run a stock yoke there. I swapped mine out and had no issues. If you go to a new shaft, you will have to toss more money at the rear than just that.