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Dana 30 with locker. Give me some advice.

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Old 05-15-2011, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Vinson Clark
Thanks for the info man I was gonna get gears sleeves etc done before I even get the lift and tires. And I'm not married or anything but my girlfriend wants to kill me everytime I get online Haha so I know how you feel
I have been running 37s for 2 years, I just bought evo and gusset kit and was worried something was bent but every thing was straight
Old 05-15-2011, 03:08 PM
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You've been running 37s on a d30 for 2 years? What gears are you running and do you wheel it a lot? Have a locker in the front
Old 05-16-2011, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Vinson Clark

I see in your profile that you have a 3in lift are you having any drive shaft problems I'm curious to know I have a 2 Dr as well. How are you liking the mb 72s
No drive shaft probs yet. The mb72's are good so far did take a pretty good chunk out off one rock crawling.
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Old 05-20-2011, 06:04 AM
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My preference of choice, ARB air lockers, if you gonna rock crawl. The mud thing, no need. Switching for a thinker axle, no need. I just installed front and rear ARB's and do rock crawling. I choose ARB, cause they do less damage than other lockers. I believe there's a YouTube video about that. The only thing about the ARB setup, its hard to find a location to install the twin compressor in the engine compartment. I mounted mine under skid plate next to gas tank, remote air filter located under hood, and quick disconnect installed behind license plate cover to air up my tires. My opinion, ARB all the way, save the money on changing your axle.
Here's a few pics on my setup.
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Old 05-20-2011, 06:16 AM
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I say leave the front open and lock the rear. Now MKJEEP runs a lockright up front and Detroit rear and loves it. It is all personnal preferance and what you will wheel.
Old 05-20-2011, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by jeep2007
I say leave the front open and lock the rear. Now MKJEEP runs a lockright up front and Detroit rear and loves it. It is all personnal preferance and what you will wheel.
How does the Detroit locker work is it a delectable? And doesn't the lockright locker keep your front locked all the time?
Old 05-20-2011, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Vinson Clark
... I talked to a guy that's going to be doin my gear work for me and he told me my ball joints and tie rod ends wouldnt last long with the 35s is there a way to prevent this? If any of you guys are running a similar setup please chime in and give me some advice.
You can see what I'm running below--yes, similar (but e-locker on front, not pneumatic). From what I understand, you don't want selectable lockers if you wheel in snow--which I do. So Detroits, etc, were out. On top of that, talking to folks who run them, the driving style when turning is completely screwy from the way I've learned to drive. After nearly 50 years, I'm not about ready to change when I brake and turn and such just because a full-time locker is making a racket.

As for tie rod ends and ball joints: They can be beefed up and certainly should be if/when you have problems. I recommend the Currie rod kit (drag link and tie rod--$800 or so) and the Dynatrac ball joints are my choice whenever mine fail ($600 or so, but I have 76K miles with no signs of troubles--most of that on 33s). I needed the Currie tie rod kit because I bent my drag link while wheeling--on stock SRA tires!! I drove it like that for nearly two years, though, and could have kept going if I wanted.
Old 05-20-2011, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark Doiron
You can see what I'm running below--yes, similar (but e-locker on front, not pneumatic). From what I understand, you don't want selectable lockers if you wheel in snow--which I do. So Detroits, etc, were out. On top of that, talking to folks who run them, the driving style when turning is completely screwy from the way I've learned to drive. After nearly 50 years, I'm not about ready to change when I brake and turn and such just because a full-time locker is making a racket.

As for tie rod ends and ball joints: They can be beefed up and certainly should be if/when you have problems. I recommend the Currie rod kit (drag link and tie rod--$800 or so) and the Dynatrac ball joints are my choice whenever mine fail ($600 or so, but I have 76K miles with no signs of troubles--most of that on 33s). I needed the Currie tie rod kit because I bent my drag link while wheeling--on stock SRA tires!! I drove it like that for nearly two years, though, and could have kept going if I wanted.
I don't ever see snow where I live so that's no consern I thought about running a arb in the read with an Aussie up front.
Old 05-20-2011, 07:13 AM
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I went with 35s, C gussets, Ten Factory shafts 5.13 W/ ARB. I really like it. If you start to get in a bind lock up crawl out. Also you can try shopping around like I did for parts. No one I found could compete with NorthRidge. Only trouble was finding a shop for the install that was ok with me supplying the parts.

Last edited by Msrunner; 05-20-2011 at 07:17 AM.
Old 05-20-2011, 07:37 AM
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Been running 37s on my D30, have sleeves and gussets, no problem. We do quite a bit of wheelin too. Not sure if I would lock the front, but would do the rear for sure. I'm waiting for that D30 to blow so I can get a Dynatrac 44. Then I'll lock the front.


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