Dana 30 with locker. Give me some advice.
05-15-2011, 12:01 PM
#11
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What and the axcel shafts should I go ahead and replace them while I'm at it? Also what about sleeving the tubes along with the c gussets would that be a good idea?
05-15-2011, 12:02 PM
#12
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What's a lunchbox locker? Are these electric lockers your talking about could you explain the differences?
An auto locker is always functioning - lunchbox, detroit, etc.
In the front axle, you will not notice it until you actually shift into 4wd.
A lunchbox is a very inexpensive version of an auto locker that fits inside your stock case. - Aussie, lock-right, etc. These will be down in the $250 range, as opposed to $850ish for an arb, plus the compressor.
A detroit is a full case auto locker that actually replaces your stock carrier. This is much stronger than a lunchbox, and is a better choice for the rear axle.
A Truetrac is Detroits version of a Limited Slip. It is the top of the line for limiteds, and is a great choice for any situation that won't have wheels in the air. (crawling). Much better on snow/ice than a full locker, which probably is not an issue for you? And will stress that front 30 less than a full locker. The D30 version is around $375ish.
Last edited by nthinuf; 05-15-2011 at 12:31 PM.
05-15-2011, 12:09 PM
#13
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A manual locker engages when you push a button - ARB, OX, stock rubi e-locker, etc.
An auto locker is always functioning - lunchbox, detroit, etc.
In the front axle, you will not notice it until you actually shift into 4wd.
A lunchbox is a very inexpensive version of an auto locker that fits inside your stock case. - Aussie, lock-right, etc. These will be down in the $250 range, as opposed to $850ish for an arb, plus the compressor.
A detroit is a full case auto locker that actually replaces your stock carrier. This is much stronger than a lunchbox, and is a better choice for the rear axle.
A Truetrac is Detroits version of a Limited Slip. It is the top of the line for limiteds, and is a great choice for any situation that won't have wheels in the air. (crawling). Much better on snow/ice than a full locker, which probably is not an issue for you? And will stress that front 30 less than a full locker. The D30 version is around $375ish.
An auto locker is always functioning - lunchbox, detroit, etc.
In the front axle, you will not notice it until you actually shift into 4wd.
A lunchbox is a very inexpensive version of an auto locker that fits inside your stock case. - Aussie, lock-right, etc. These will be down in the $250 range, as opposed to $850ish for an arb, plus the compressor.
A detroit is a full case auto locker that actually replaces your stock carrier. This is much stronger than a lunchbox, and is a better choice for the rear axle.
A Truetrac is Detroits version of a Limited Slip. It is the top of the line for limiteds, and is a great choice for any situation that won't have wheels in the air. (crawling). Much better on snow/ice than a full locker, which probably is not an issue for you? And will stress that front 30 less than a full locker. The D30 version is around $375ish.
05-15-2011, 12:13 PM
#14
JK Junkie
Originally Posted by Vinson Clark
Thanks for the info man and I might see ice and snow one day out of the year where I'm at. Where is a good place to order driveline parts like this from?
05-15-2011, 12:29 PM
#15
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If you are looking for selectables, ARB is the one I would choose. Just tossing out some options and considerations. (I personally would not spend a grand on a locker for a d30, but lots of people have done it without issue)
As far as a source goes, Dave/Northridge as suggested above, and also Bustabizz, who is the rep for 4WD. Also check with your gear installer to see what prices he can get you.
As far as a source goes, Dave/Northridge as suggested above, and also Bustabizz, who is the rep for 4WD. Also check with your gear installer to see what prices he can get you.
05-15-2011, 12:44 PM
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I would just buy a good winch and pass on the lockers. Put that money to something else like good tires, Lift, shocks, sleeves, c gussets and 4.88 gear's. Just that alone could be $3500-5000 depending on what you get. Depends on the off roadin you are going to be doing too. So this stuff isn't cheap and once you catch the bug you will be in trouble. My wife wants to kill me sometimes when I look at stuff online, because she knowns I am about to spend more money.
The best advice I can give you as a new jeeper is to plan it out and know where you want to be or GOAL, and go in steps! EX: lift then sleeves and gussets, then spacers and tires and so on a so forth. I aways try to buy what will need to been done before the actual part's i want to put on. Like the Sleeves and gussets before 35's .. But that is just me!
And I have no problems with d30's ball joints or tie rod ends? What i was told and think that the D30's C's are the same as the D44 same with tie rod and ball joints... But could be wrong!
The best advice I can give you as a new jeeper is to plan it out and know where you want to be or GOAL, and go in steps! EX: lift then sleeves and gussets, then spacers and tires and so on a so forth. I aways try to buy what will need to been done before the actual part's i want to put on. Like the Sleeves and gussets before 35's .. But that is just me!
And I have no problems with d30's ball joints or tie rod ends? What i was told and think that the D30's C's are the same as the D44 same with tie rod and ball joints... But could be wrong!
Last edited by deltaneo1; 05-15-2011 at 12:51 PM.
05-15-2011, 12:54 PM
#19
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I would just buy a good winch and pass on the lockers. Put that money to something else like good tires, Lift, shocks, sleeves, c gussets and 4.88 gear's. Just that alone could be $3500-5000 depending on what you get. So this stuff isn't cheap and once you catch the bug you will be in trouble. My wife wants to kill me sometimes when I look at stuff online, because she knowns I am about to spend more money.
The best advice I can give you as a new jeeper is to plan it out and know where you want to be or GOAL, and go in steps! EX: lift then sleeves and gussets, then spacers and tires and so on a so forth. I aways try to buy what will need to been done before the actual part's i want to put on. Like the Sleeves and gussets before 35's .. But that is just me!
And I have no problems with d30's ball joints or tie rod ends? What i was told and think that the D30's C's are the same as the D44 same with tie rod and ball joints... But could be wrong!
The best advice I can give you as a new jeeper is to plan it out and know where you want to be or GOAL, and go in steps! EX: lift then sleeves and gussets, then spacers and tires and so on a so forth. I aways try to buy what will need to been done before the actual part's i want to put on. Like the Sleeves and gussets before 35's .. But that is just me!
And I have no problems with d30's ball joints or tie rod ends? What i was told and think that the D30's C's are the same as the D44 same with tie rod and ball joints... But could be wrong!
05-15-2011, 12:57 PM
#20
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I see in your profile that you have a 3in lift are you having any drive shaft problems I'm curious to know I have a 2 Dr as well. How are you liking the mb 72s