Does anyone happen to know what the specs are on the dana30 housing, in terms of how much tolerance the tubes have before they are considered "bent"? I assume they have to be true to a certain degree, but I'm wondering how off they are allowed to be.

Soecifically, I have a blown axle seal it looks like, and the dealer is claiming the housing is bent. But what I'm really worried about is if the axle is too bent to even bother to put anymore money into it (things like sleeving and gusseting)

 

if you're sure it's the housing that's bent and not just the c's, you won't be able to sleeve it and really, if it were me, i wouldn't put any more money into than i had to.

 

that's what I'm worried about. The dealership is measuring it now (since it didn't really look bent to me, but what do I know) to quantify the "bent". I'm just wondering if they come back with something like "its .001" out" if there is some type of tolerance as to what constitutes "zero". Basically, I'm trying to be cheap; I don't want to have to pay for the work to replace the seal, and I want to be able to simply build up the current axle with no issues. But I want to know now, so that if I have to go axle shopping I know now instead of later!

But it all comes down to know whether or not the current housing is actually bad!

 

so, the dealership didnt really do anything. they told me they wouldnt do any warranty work, due to the trail damage, but to me it looks straight. they did run an alignment though. apparently my camber is -1.6* on both sides. it doesnt look terrible, but that also 1* out of spec. any real fix for this? is it worth gusseting the "c"s?



thats a picture from undernearth, taken at the diff, of the axle tube. looks fine to me. total aside, my toe in is aparently -0.55*, which is out of spec? I had measured it the other day and thought it was fine, but I guess not? or is that not that bad?

 

I wouldn't throw any more money at that problem. I would find a Dana 44 take-off and regear the axles to match. Check around at wrecking yards and/or advertise for one. I'd start with eBay and craigslist. I just wouldn't spend anymore on the one your original as they are known to be weak.

 

is a 44 really that much better? I thought the weak link of the dana30 vs the 44 is really just the shafts themselves; the housing is just as weak no?

 

I think a rubi 44 front is same strength just about as d30 except d44 has stronger R&P from what I've read on the forums. Maybe a bit stronger tubes an shafts? Outerts I've read are same as a d30.