D60 and gm 14 bolt
#11
But I have found this. Which its not exactly cheap but cheaper than after market axles
http://www.riverraider.com/store/JK-Axle-Conversion
http://www.riverraider.com/store/JK-Axle-Conversion
#12
Depends on your ultimate goal. If you want to run 40" tires reliably, it could be worth the effort. 40s don't exactly balance awesomely, aren't available in everywhere USA and aren't usually cheap. You're the only one that can answer if its with it to you. To me, not at this time.
#13
Here is a link to the guy in my club who built his dana 60 that I mentioned earlier.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-s...pliant-146143/
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-s...pliant-146143/
#14
Depends on your ultimate goal. If you want to run 40" tires reliably, it could be worth the effort. 40s don't exactly balance awesomely, aren't available in everywhere USA and aren't usually cheap. You're the only one that can answer if its with it to you. To me, not at this time.
#15
40s are my ultimate goal. At this moment I know I'm not ready for them, I'm still a newbie. I've been wheeling for only 3 years now. I'm just think of this as a future project. Something I can start now with just buying the axles and building them slowly like gears and lockers and such then in 2-3 years from now when I have some more experience under the belt put them under the jk.
Sounds like it might be worth picking them up? Depends if you want to save up over time and then pull the trigger on aftermarket stuff or build this set a little at a time?
#16
#17
your tires will stick way past the fenders as these axles are wider than stock .Other than that . again , provided you can weld , I think you take off your other axles and duplicate the bracketry . If you live in Cali. , you better cover your tires with fenders as you will get a ticket on the street !
#18
your tires will stick way past the fenders as these axles are wider than stock .Other than that . again , provided you can weld , I think you take off your other axles and duplicate the bracketry . If you live in Cali. , you better cover your tires with fenders as you will get a ticket on the street !
#19
For me, I'm liking the idea of having a kewl JKU that I can cruise around in that's fairly capable but still comfortable to drive 3-5 hours in at speed. I've still got my "hardcore" trail rig for "hardcore" trails. (I have to tow it with my wife's Lincoln as I sold my Cummins to get into the JK but there's always a trade off, right?)
RE: the width thing. I still run a stock GM Dana 60 front and stock 14 bolt rear (not cut down for width or anything). Utah state law dictates fender coverage and mud flaps to at least the mid point of the rear tire. Running H2 wheels on my stock 60 and 38" Kevlars, I'm at 82" sidewall to sidewall. With 6" (maybe 7"?) TJ flares I'm street legal in UT. A LOT of TJ or YJ rigs are running at least 80" with their offset wheels. This does create a problem with the locking hub (I've ran drive flanges until last year) being vulnerable to rocks. Yukon just brought a low profile locking hub last summer for 35 spline Dana 60s. They might stick out 1/4" or so more than my drive slugs. I don't run the hard trails much any more anyway.
RE: the width thing. I still run a stock GM Dana 60 front and stock 14 bolt rear (not cut down for width or anything). Utah state law dictates fender coverage and mud flaps to at least the mid point of the rear tire. Running H2 wheels on my stock 60 and 38" Kevlars, I'm at 82" sidewall to sidewall. With 6" (maybe 7"?) TJ flares I'm street legal in UT. A LOT of TJ or YJ rigs are running at least 80" with their offset wheels. This does create a problem with the locking hub (I've ran drive flanges until last year) being vulnerable to rocks. Yukon just brought a low profile locking hub last summer for 35 spline Dana 60s. They might stick out 1/4" or so more than my drive slugs. I don't run the hard trails much any more anyway.
Last edited by Mbryson; 02-07-2013 at 07:33 AM.
#20
For me, I'm liking the idea of having a kewl JKU that I can cruise around in that's fairly capable but still comfortable to drive 3-5 hours in at speed. I've still got my "hardcore" trail rig for "hardcore" trails. (I have to tow it with my wife's Lincoln as I sold my Cummins to get into the JK but there's always a trade off, right?)
RE: the width thing. I still run a stock GM Dana 60 front and stock 14 bolt rear (not cut down for width or anything). Utah state law dictates fender coverage and mud flaps to at least the mid point of the rear tire. Running H2 wheels on my stock 60 and 38" Kevlars, I'm at 82" sidewall to sidewall. With 6" (maybe 7"?) TJ flares I'm street legal in UT. A LOT of TJ or YJ rigs are running at least 80" with their offset wheels. This does create a problem with the locking hub (I've ran drive flanges until last year) being vulnerable to rocks. Yukon just brought a low profile locking hub last summer for 35 spline Dana 60s. They might stick out 1/4" or so more than my drive slugs. I don't run the hard trails much any more anyway.
RE: the width thing. I still run a stock GM Dana 60 front and stock 14 bolt rear (not cut down for width or anything). Utah state law dictates fender coverage and mud flaps to at least the mid point of the rear tire. Running H2 wheels on my stock 60 and 38" Kevlars, I'm at 82" sidewall to sidewall. With 6" (maybe 7"?) TJ flares I'm street legal in UT. A LOT of TJ or YJ rigs are running at least 80" with their offset wheels. This does create a problem with the locking hub (I've ran drive flanges until last year) being vulnerable to rocks. Yukon just brought a low profile locking hub last summer for 35 spline Dana 60s. They might stick out 1/4" or so more than my drive slugs. I don't run the hard trails much any more anyway.