D30's, how much can it take
04-30-2010, 10:32 AM
#11
JK Junkie
I seem to recall that some very early Xs have a D35 rear diff instead of D44. If you run a search you will find several threads referencing this.
Do you know which one you have?
If you do have a D35 you will be better served by sticking to 35s, unless you are willing to drive mindfully off-road.
Do you know which one you have?
If you do have a D35 you will be better served by sticking to 35s, unless you are willing to drive mindfully off-road.
04-30-2010, 10:41 AM
#12
JK Super Freak
FOR PHOCK'S SAKE, will you guys stop with the "skinny pedal" reference already? Gawd-damn, that's got to be the most hackneyed phrase in all of JK Land.
04-30-2010, 10:45 AM
#13
JK Junkie
I ran 35 boggers on my XJ with a front 30 and a rear 35c. No problems as long as you don't lock them. I used full throttle in mud bogs and stuff. But in the rocks, there is a lot more friction and more risk there.
04-30-2010, 11:38 AM
#14
JK Enthusiast
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I don't understand why people mildly build their d30 and are told that a little bit more will get them a prorock 44. Unless by little bit more they mean more than twice as much?
D30:
Sleeves: 164
Gussets: 89.99
Chromoly Shafts: 600
Yukon Super Joints: 330 (frankly I would rather my ujoint break than my axle shaft though so I wouldn't buy these)
Total: $1,183.99
Prorock housing: 1959
D44 Gears: 270
D44 Shafts (just plain replacement shafts): 150
Total: $2,379.00
D30:
Sleeves: 164
Gussets: 89.99
Chromoly Shafts: 600
Yukon Super Joints: 330 (frankly I would rather my ujoint break than my axle shaft though so I wouldn't buy these)
Total: $1,183.99
Prorock housing: 1959
D44 Gears: 270
D44 Shafts (just plain replacement shafts): 150
Total: $2,379.00
If you are going to drop that kind of dough into a 30 particularly if you are paying for labor you are very close to having bought a pro rock 44. I have close to 3k into my pos 30 including gear set up labor more than once due to massive carnage, chromoly axles, sleeves , gussets and an Aussie locker. If I had just paid another 1k I would have a pro rock 44 set up with an arb, 5:13's and rcv axles. I've been told I may be finesseless when wheeling and that is debatable, been wheeling my entire driving career, but regardless a meagerly set up 44 is far better than the best set up 30.
04-30-2010, 11:40 AM
#15
I don't understand why people mildly build their d30 and are told that a little bit more will get them a prorock 44. Unless by little bit more they mean more than twice as much?
D30:
Sleeves: 164
Gussets: 89.99
Chromoly Shafts: 600
Yukon Super Joints: 330 (frankly I would rather my ujoint break than my axle shaft though so I wouldn't buy these)
Total: $1,183.99
Prorock housing: 1959
D44 Gears: 270
D44 Shafts (just plain replacement shafts): 150
Total: $2,379.00
D30:
Sleeves: 164
Gussets: 89.99
Chromoly Shafts: 600
Yukon Super Joints: 330 (frankly I would rather my ujoint break than my axle shaft though so I wouldn't buy these)
Total: $1,183.99
Prorock housing: 1959
D44 Gears: 270
D44 Shafts (just plain replacement shafts): 150
Total: $2,379.00
The pro rock does not come with a carrier so you will need a stock Rubicon locker or a ARB also SO Add approx 750-900 to your list
04-30-2010, 11:42 AM
#16
JK Freak
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I agree with you, you can build up a 30 for a lot less than a pro-rock 44. But with all of the upgrades and after you pay to re-gear and add a locker you get pretty close to the cost of a PR44. espically if your paying someone else to do all of your upgrades for you.
04-30-2010, 11:48 AM
#17
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All great stuff guys. I really appreciate all the options/opinions. Sounds like id be asking the same question if there had been a Rubi on the lot when i got the itch to purchase. Patience has never been my strong suit and the wife thinks black is the only color for any vehicle... So ill weld on some C gussets, order some sleeves and keep an eye on it.
the rear is a 44, have build sheet, gears 4.10.
the rear is a 44, have build sheet, gears 4.10.
04-30-2010, 11:57 AM
#18
JK Super Freak
I would go with 35's. Because in the future if you want gears the lowest you can go is 5.13 with a d30 and with 37" tires running 5.13 gears you wouldn't be happy. I'm personally running 35's with 5.13 gears because I have a d30 front and not a d44. With 37" you really need 5.38's, thats my opinion.
05-02-2010, 04:06 PM
#20
JK Junkie
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I would go with 35's. Because in the future if you want gears the lowest you can go is 5.13 with a d30 and with 37" tires running 5.13 gears you wouldn't be happy. I'm personally running 35's with 5.13 gears because I have a d30 front and not a d44. With 37" you really need 5.38's, thats my opinion.