Looks great!, I'm building my D30 this winter

 

Mark good input! The idea with the chart was as close to an apples to apples comparison between the two axles. There are ways to build it cheaper and I am glad folks are sharing their ideas and experiences.

My goal with my build is 37" to 40" tires and be able to wheel reasonably hard without fears of breaking down.

BTW thanks for sharing your pictures they are great! Your advice on Canyonlands got us the spend 2 days running the 91 miles of White Rim... Epic.

 

Why not just buy a used Dana 44 from a Rubicon? When somebody upgrades to a D60 they post there stocker on the for-sale forum.

 

If you can do the work yourself, and find them for a decent price, it can make a lot of sense. (or if you can find one that is already upgraded for a decent price, it can be a great purchase!)

If you are paying labor, you're right back to the same situation as the original chart --> with the added expense of that shiny new (used) rubi axle on top. There is no strength benefit to the rubi housing over the d30 housing. Same tube diameter, same tube thickness, same C's, so you still need the same gussets/sleeves/truss/hd mounts/skids/etc that you decided you need for the d30 housing. You get a much better R&P size, the e-locker, and slightly upgraded shafts, but odds are you're paying for new gears and the install. And if you are paying for a new 44 for the strength advantages, aren't you also going to be looking into alloy shafts and serviceable balljoints as well?

So yes, take-off rubi axles 'can' make sense. Depending on your skills and needs. Add up all of the costs and do a 3-way comparison between building the d30, buying a rubi 44 and then building it, and just going aftermarket to see what is right for you...

 

I'm not a welder or hard core mechanic, I know what I can do myself and what I can learn to do with the right tools and instructions and for the other stuff I find someone who is competent and easy to work with at a fair price...

I have an awesome 4x4 shop nearby and he's been doing it for just about thirty years now

For me the new complete package just makes more sense than doing all that work to my factory 30

Matthew

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If money is not a consideration, why not get the PR 60 and be done?

 

I'm pretty happy with the specs and options with the 44 that Northridge has put together

I think that will be perfect for my front, then I'll weigh the options for the rear

Best way to have money is to spend it wisely and to remember what it was like before you had spare money for things like this

 

Great info and still a great thread.

Another thing to consider, ground clearance with a ProRock OVER a standard housing.

 

can a pro rock 44 fit a FULL size 35 spline axle shaft? imo if your building one up build up a 60 (for the front) seen as you can get them for $120 at most junkyards.

 

How much is the clearance difference between my factory d30 and the Northridge super d44?

The Northridge is looking awfully good to me, just wish they made the same special setup for the rear too!

Then I could drive my Jeep all the way to them and get the switchover done by Northridge

Matthew