This looks perfect for my Dana 30 till I can upgrade to a 44

 

I agree... I put $6k in the bank and then c-gusseted my d30... if/when I break my d30 I will just get a prorock44 w/ 4.56 and regear my rear to 4.56. I doubt I will ever break my d30 though I don't wheel it that hard, but if I do, I am ready

 

I caved. I bought the PR 44 from northridge. The one with the RVC shafts and air locker. Having a shop regear and lock the rear. Will have spent about 7 grand with air supply and everything done. Would say that is some expensive piece of mind.

 

Thanks to the OP for the chart, numbers in black and white never lie, makes sense...sorry D30.

 

It will be fun once its all put together... you might have to winch me out with my open-front/lsd-rear at gilmer or bridgeport sometime

 

Hmm, the more people who buy pro rocks, the more d30's accumulate, which if your on a budget shouldn't be too much to replace. I call that a win win situation (for us frugal wheelers).

 

I think this thread saved me a bunch of money!

Thanks to the person who posted the link under a different thread that I started...

Would it be really dumb to replace my front Dana 30 with the 44 from Northridge, and then just regear my rear 44 to match the front, and then a little bit later replace the rear so it had a matching axle like the front?

I've got a healthy budget, but when you include shipping, installation and misc two of these puppies would really add up and I don't wheel that hard...

Matthew

 

The problem with this chart is that not everyone wheels their Jeep that hard with monster tires, but they'd like some improvement over what the stock D30 offers. There are cheaper alternatives to the ARB locker, the ball joints, the RCV axles, and so on, and some parts aren't needed (such as the truss). I have about half that nearly five grand in my D30, and wheel reasonably hard for expedition/overland travel. Harder than what I'd want to run a stock D30, but certainly not as hard as a few on this forum.















I'm not saying the chart is wrong. I'm saying that it's not right for everyone. People should be honest about what they intend to do with their Jeep, then plan and budget accordingly. And I would encourage the vendors who are eager to sell their wares to ask the right questions and offer suitable advice for each individual's situation and needs.

126K miles and still going strong on a built D30 (hope that doesn't jinx me, LOL).

 

Truss, HD track bar bracket, LCA skids, C gussets, synergy sleeves, synergy ball joints, regeared to 4.88, Riddler cover and a True Trac for a total of $1324 in parts and roughly 15 hours of my time

Everyone's needs are different, Everyones skills are different
So it's definitely not a one size fits all chart

 

It really depends on how you wheel and how you are going to set up your jeep. I built my Dana 30 for ten times less than it would cost me to swap to a pro rock or any other aftermarket axle. I did all of the work myself though, which saved the coin of installation.

My D30 axle build:
-Artec axle truss & gussets
-JKS trac bar reinforcement/steering stabilizer relocate bracket (welded)
-Aussie locker
-Alloy USA ball joints
-Spicer HD U-joints
-Solid diff covers
-Rancho lower control arm skids
-RCV's to come next week
-Synergy tie rod and drag link flip to come next week