View Poll Results: D30 with 35s, Leave Open, Lock It or TrueTrac
ARB Lockers Front and Rear
2
22.22%
Front Open and Lock the Rear
1
11.11%
TrueTrac in the Front, ARB in the Rear
6
66.67%
Voters: 9. You may not vote on this poll
D30 Selectable locker, Leave Open or TrueTrac
10-05-2016 | 12:40 PM
#1
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: Tempe, AZ
D30 Selectable locker, Leave Open or TrueTrac
My Jeep
2007
2-Door
35 inch tires, 34 Mounted at 30 PSI
6-Speed
3.8L
3 Inch Lift
C-Gussets and Artec Truss Armor Kit on front D30
Winch on the front
3.73 gearing
27 spline front stock drive shafts
Buddy with identical jeep and build has 4.88 on an auto with his and gets 16-17 on fwy at 75-80.
Going to be re gearing to 4.88 so I think my jeep will have a little more get up and go and slightly higher rpm than his so shooting for 15-16 mpg.
My jeep is not going to be a serious crawl rig as in to the point of breaking stuff. I use it more as a DD and never would bring it to the point where I think I would roll. Therefore I don't see the need for PR44 and I won't be going to 37's ever. The hardest trail I will ever do would be the rubicon.
The type of terrain I will be at would be here in AZ for now but will be relocating to WA in a year or two.
My question is should I go for selectable front, leave the d30 open or go for a true trac? I am able to get ARBs, Compressor and Gears installed for 3K out the door.
2007
2-Door
35 inch tires, 34 Mounted at 30 PSI
6-Speed
3.8L
3 Inch Lift
C-Gussets and Artec Truss Armor Kit on front D30
Winch on the front
3.73 gearing
27 spline front stock drive shafts
Buddy with identical jeep and build has 4.88 on an auto with his and gets 16-17 on fwy at 75-80.
Going to be re gearing to 4.88 so I think my jeep will have a little more get up and go and slightly higher rpm than his so shooting for 15-16 mpg.
My jeep is not going to be a serious crawl rig as in to the point of breaking stuff. I use it more as a DD and never would bring it to the point where I think I would roll. Therefore I don't see the need for PR44 and I won't be going to 37's ever. The hardest trail I will ever do would be the rubicon.
The type of terrain I will be at would be here in AZ for now but will be relocating to WA in a year or two.
My question is should I go for selectable front, leave the d30 open or go for a true trac? I am able to get ARBs, Compressor and Gears installed for 3K out the door.
Last edited by sundevil; 10-05-2016 at 12:50 PM.
10-05-2016 | 01:29 PM
#2
JK Jedi
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 11,010
Likes: 1,954
From: Willow Park, TX
If had $1 for every time I said that before I went to 37's, I'd be a rich man. LOL.
Have you considered option #4 - axle swap? If you could source some rubicon D44s you could possibly come out even cheaper depending on gearing. I was in the same boat a at one point. Bought a brand new crated front rubi for $1800, a rear off the forum for $1100 shipped, and sold my 30/44 combo for $1k. For $2k I had a slight upgrade in gears from 3.73 to 4.10's, better shafts up front, chromoly shafts in the rear (that came with the used rear), and I gained front and rear e-lockers. That route isn't for everyone, but when looking to spend so much, consider all options. You could even luck out and find something that has already been regeared if you were patient.
That said, from what you described, you might be just as happy staying open, regearing, and still doing 90-95% of the things you would typically do. I wheeled the heck out of an open D30 for a while. At times I had to push it harder than I would have liked, but it was still pretty capable. If it sounded like you were more aggressive on the trails, locker would probably be the better way to go. The other question is what's the opportunity cost? If you didn't buy a locker and compressor, what would you spend that money on instead??
Have you considered option #4 - axle swap? If you could source some rubicon D44s you could possibly come out even cheaper depending on gearing. I was in the same boat a at one point. Bought a brand new crated front rubi for $1800, a rear off the forum for $1100 shipped, and sold my 30/44 combo for $1k. For $2k I had a slight upgrade in gears from 3.73 to 4.10's, better shafts up front, chromoly shafts in the rear (that came with the used rear), and I gained front and rear e-lockers. That route isn't for everyone, but when looking to spend so much, consider all options. You could even luck out and find something that has already been regeared if you were patient.
That said, from what you described, you might be just as happy staying open, regearing, and still doing 90-95% of the things you would typically do. I wheeled the heck out of an open D30 for a while. At times I had to push it harder than I would have liked, but it was still pretty capable. If it sounded like you were more aggressive on the trails, locker would probably be the better way to go. The other question is what's the opportunity cost? If you didn't buy a locker and compressor, what would you spend that money on instead??
10-05-2016 | 01:56 PM
#4
Super Moderator
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,177
Likes: 16
From: Shelby County, TN
I ran the Aussie Locker in my D30 and an ARB in my D44. Now I have an Ultimate 44 with a Rubi E locker and the ARB on the rear D44.
Liked the way the Aussie locker worked, took a little getting used to the clicking but when I needed it it was all good. Either way you go keep your driveshaft and axle shafts stock so they are the weakest link and not your Ring and Pinion. I know from experience during this pas EJS. I blew both stock axle shaft U-Joints on Rose Garden Hill but save the Ring and Pinion. I was running 35's on ATX slabs and 5.13 gears. sm_rubi was there.
R/
Will
Liked the way the Aussie locker worked, took a little getting used to the clicking but when I needed it it was all good. Either way you go keep your driveshaft and axle shafts stock so they are the weakest link and not your Ring and Pinion. I know from experience during this pas EJS. I blew both stock axle shaft U-Joints on Rose Garden Hill but save the Ring and Pinion. I was running 35's on ATX slabs and 5.13 gears. sm_rubi was there.
R/
Will
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10-05-2016 | 10:57 PM
#9
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 162
From: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
As far as locked vs open vs limited slip for a front d30 goes, you can find long long threads debating what/why/how/where/etc. There is no concensus, as you will see from the replies you get...
For me it's mostly just the cost of throwing a selectable locker into a d30. Doesn't make sense to me. You can get that truetrac for $390 or so at Summitracing, and arb's are over $900. As noted, a lunchbox would be a cheaper option than a truetrac. But, you indicated a move to the northwest, and some don't care for locked front axles in areas with winter weather. Just depends. So, from your future location and the general usage you indicated, you are seeing a bunch of suggestions for truetracs.
For me it's mostly just the cost of throwing a selectable locker into a d30. Doesn't make sense to me. You can get that truetrac for $390 or so at Summitracing, and arb's are over $900. As noted, a lunchbox would be a cheaper option than a truetrac. But, you indicated a move to the northwest, and some don't care for locked front axles in areas with winter weather. Just depends. So, from your future location and the general usage you indicated, you are seeing a bunch of suggestions for truetracs.
10-05-2016 | 11:09 PM
#10
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
From: DuPont, WA
I went with Truetracs front and rear and love them. I have gone everywhere my friends with Rubicon's have gone with no issues. The TT are a cheap option, and very reliable with no switches or airlines. Based off the terrain you're going to be driving in, it sounds like they would work fine for you. I didn't want to put the extra stress of a locker on my Dana 30 ring and pinion. I did the install myself, which made it even cheaper.