SoK66

I wouldn't sweat 5.38s a bit. Been running them for several years now, best combination with 37s & the 3.8

Maertz

Really means nothing.. Anything can break. I've seen 4.10s in dana60s explode. Hell 2 sets in one day.. Just because one guy did doesn't mean everyones will.

D_engel

And look how many axles dynatrac sold because of it.....

thegoat

So stock components and 37's are fine? You have stated you look at a D30 and it breaks... This contradictory of yourself a bit in this area of failures. In this cases it seems that you are dismissing this cause it is something that happened to WOL.
I am not a WOL fan, I think he is a dick too. I am just pointing out something factual about 5.38's and adding to the conversation

DunnyBunny

Where did he say stock and 37s is fine? I believe he mentioned welding the tubes to the housing, chromo shafts, and agreed with a truss. That's far from a stock axle anymore. Now I would agree that if that is done then 5.38 gearing will be the weak link and probably not the best. I think 5.13s would be safer and still give you nice drivability.

thegoat

I was referring to the statement of "Just because one guy did doesn't mean everyones will." A built and trussed 30 will perform the same as a built and trussed 44 only difference is a ring & pinion, so all the statements in the 37's on stock components thread should be disregarded?

Maertz has a lot of good information and advice, just seemed like I got jumped on a bit cause I mentioned Eddie.

Biginboca

Those are front axles this thread is talking specifically about rear axles

Maertz

My point was more so depends on wheeling frequency and difficulty. That's it. I dont give a shit where your from or what brands you promote. To each his own i wont judge. He may wheel harder than many on here but plenty wheel alot harder than he does. So as i said depends on usage. Plan accordingly is all i was half assed implying. If me responding is me jumping you im sorry to hear that...

As for the staring at a d30 statement if you knew my sense of humor and took the context of that thread you'd realize i was just being a sarcastic ass and not stating facts. But hey its online shit gets distorted i spose.

I run 5.38s on my d60s as its enough for me. Some will destroy what i run. Some may need sterlings or d80s and equivalents and 4.10s running jantz load bolts and such. Each is different. But to many people on here id bet a d44 built with what i originally said is plenty for 37s..can it be broke hell yeah...

MOPWR2U

Oscar,
I had a Currie high pinion 60 in the rear of a 2004 TJ, and wheeled it for several years with 37" tires. Never had any problems with it. I did get on it pretty hard a number of times as well. One time I got stuck in a snow drifted in gully with snow up to the hood, and nothing in sight to hook a winch cable to. After half an hour with the engine on the rev limiter, forward and backward over and over again, I had spun enough mud up onto the snow to climb out of their. Seldom have I abused a vehicle that hard, and everything stayed together.

I have a Dynatrac high pinion 60 in the rear of my 2014 JK, and I have wheeled it for a year with 37" tires. I've had to stand on the throttle a few times to make it through places with this Jeep as well. Not rock crawling, but mud rather, as in crossing a dry salt flat that suddenly is wetter than you planned on, and if you don't make it you're looking at a long long long walk back to civilization. Kept it at redline for a half mile with all four tires slinging mud 20 feet in the air, and just barely made it. Never had any problems with this axle either.

I think they're both really good quality axles. In fact, I don't have any complaints about either of them. Both of them were semi-float rear axles as well. If I were to have to pick one axle as best quality, I would say the Dynatrac axle is a little better. Is it worth $1500 more? Probably not.

Correct me if I am wrong, but aren't full float axles primarily designed for pickup trucks that carry a lot of weight? The additional bearing at the axle end helps support more weight. But does it do anything to prevent torsional breakage of the axle shafts? For a light weight vehicle like a Jeep (4960 lbs total, and 2400 lbs on the rear axle for my JK) I didn't think a full float axle was an absolute necessity.

Here is something to consider, ... can you get a Currie Rock Jock 70 for the same price as a Dynatrac Pro Rock 60? If I were to do it over again, I might go that route, Rock Jock 70s at both ends. Then people can really tell you that you don't need that for 37" tires.

Maertz

Full float you cant bend axle shafts like on a semi float. Ive personally seen semi floats bend on 33s. The axle shaft only sees the the torque not the whole weight of the vehicle at all times. Its not just an extra bearing.. Its a whole different design. Full float you can at any time just unbolt the axle shaft and slide it out. Also are you sure you had high pinion rears on both? Normally rears are low pinions and fronts are high pinion. It helps the teeth mesh together. I have also personally seen high pinion rear d60s grenade gears easily. The one guy i saw said it was his 4th time and he was going to go back to low pinion