maxspongebob

I was doing some work on the Jeep and found that the stock drag link and tie rod ends were a bit worn. The thing drove alright, but did feel a bit mushy in the steering. So instead of just replacing the stock parts, I decided an upgrade was in order.

I chose the "Currie Currectlync heavy duty tie rod and drag link" kit. Yes, it was a bit expensive, but I expect to use it after I upgrade the front axle to a ProRock D60 (someday). So I am hoping to keep it for a LONG time.

These parts are MASSIVE. The rod ends are enormous, but just the right size to clear the inside of the 17" wheel and the brake rotor (I have the Terraflex big brakes).

I hope they hold up as well as they look.
Off to the shop tomorrow for an alignment.

Offroad_Elements

That should last you a lonnnnnggg time! Looks good, Currie is always a great choice

Mark Doiron

They will fit, barely, inside at least some 16" wheels. I don't have the big brakes, though. The one problem I ran into was with the TF steering stabilizer and the JeepSWAG relocation bracket, the stabilizer was getting beat up at the axle end. Solution was to move the stabilizer end from the tie rod over to the drag link.

As far as paying someone to align for these new parts: Toe and steering wheel centering are easy projects. With one helper (to hold a tape measure), and a few common hand tools you can be done in 20-30 minutes.

Basic Do-it-Yourself Jeep JK Wrangler Front End Alignment

maxspongebob

I tried to align it using a tape measure, but it was really difficult doing it by myself. Since it is my DD I figured the shop would do a better job. They did.

Also you cant see it from the pictures, but I had to trim the disk brake shield where the tie rod end is. With the shield trimmed, there is about 1/8" of clearance for the disk brake surface. I just have to be careful when lubing the tie rod ends as if you put too much grease in it will squish out onto the surface of the rotor (not really good for stopping).

TheDirtman

those links suck. God awlful expensive and wait until you have to replace the TRE's and don't dare bend one of the forged ends as it costs nearly what an entire synergy link costs. The TRE's will quickly wear and the links will flop around due to the weight of the links. The flopping link will tear the grease boots and you will always have a greasy mess at the TRE. And yes I ran them for a while and still have them packed away in the trailer and am much happier with the synergy and ruff stuff links that you can buy for around 1/3 of the price. Their warrentee sucks as well, I broke the tie rod because the hole they drilled in the rod to thread was not centered and had a very thin side. They replaced it with the new style that you have and told me I would need a new TRE and forged end as they were bent which was bs. In the end it cost me nearly $300 for them to warrentee the tie rod and about a month in time.

Mark Doiron

I like the Synergy products and would have got them had they existed when I got the Currie rods. As you write, I had to replace the TRE boots because they tore. Currie offers several styles, so I opted for one that had a metal cap and sponge rubber boot. But one side rattled incessantly, so I replaced with their third, heavy duty option. Much better. I have a 100K miles or so on these rods and they are working for me now. But, I do recommend Synergy--primarily because these are way overbuilt for 99% of the rigs out there, and you pay a lot extra for that.

TheDirtman

I got those heavy duty boots with the metal and foam as well and they lasted about 2 months on mine with the amount of articultion I have and use. For your overland excursions I can see them lasting longer.