Cracked Header
10-10-2011, 05:25 PM
#12
JK Jedi Master
Driver side cracked prolly around 28,000 somethin, didn't get it fixed till 34,000, it had 3 cracks in different places. Replaced under warranty. Passenger side cracked somewhere in the 50-60,000 m I'm guessing. Fixed the two cracks in it with some manifold mix-it-up stuff from an auto parts store. I got 84,000 now and I think both sides are cracked and leaking again.
Seems like the driverside cracks first mostly on the jk's. Passenger side will eventually do it too though.
Seems like the driverside cracks first mostly on the jk's. Passenger side will eventually do it too though.
10-10-2011, 08:40 PM
#18
JK Enthusiast
I've had the driver side replaced twice now. Get this, the first time it went in, it took them a week to "locate" the problem. I told them to stick their heads under the hood for a minute and see how long they last. They fixed it with 100$ deductible, and then informed me that a bolt on the passenger side was sheared, but wasn't covered. The manifold was, but the bolt that secured it wasnt. They wanted 300$ more. I called Chrysler and they replaced the bolt for free. Go figure.
10-11-2011, 03:22 AM
#20
JK Junkie
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Lakewood, OH
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Long tubes are better than short tubes, the idea behind headers is to get the exhaust to flow smoothly out and long tubes have more room to straighten the air out. The price is a huge downfall for doing headers and I will recommend "stage 8 hardware" if you go that route. Not to be confused with grade 8 hardware, the stage 8 hardware has a locking mechanism to prevent the bolts from coming loose and causing an exhaust leak. I failed to use the proper product and had exhaust leaks with 2 different brands of headers on 2 different vehicles installed by 2 different reputable companies.
On getting any kind of headers, always get them third party coated. OEM coatings generally suck no matter who the company is. My preference is for Black Satin although my local powder coater is recommending a two stage approach using Black Satin, followed by Cermakrome for inhibiting rust on steel headers. Both of these coatings provide a thermal barrier keeping the heat inside the exhaust and out of the engine bay. The result is better exhaust velocity and cooler air through the intake. It also will keep your plug wires safe.
BTW, no way I would pay to have a stock manifold replaced and I would definitely run with headers.
Last edited by JPop; 10-11-2011 at 03:25 AM.