^ This

There are bolt on & weld on brackets. I went with Artecs weld on bracket. See below:

 

Ok. I'm understanding now about the bracket but please explain exactly what this allows/changes.

Thanks again.

 

As you lift the jeep your center of gravity is higher and therefore affecting how much the jeep will roll as weight is shifted (turning). Raising the roll center either front or back to match your lift will keep your trackbars more parallel and thus reducing the amount of body roll you have. It will stiffen up the rear end of the jeep & improve handling. The closer your roll center to your jeeps center of gravity the better.

Raising your front roll center also means flipping your draglink. You can't raise the trackbar without flipping the draglink.

 

OK, I think I am putting all this together now... Originally when I lifted my JK I was going for about 2 to 2 1/2 inches of lift. I did use the TF budget boost rear track bar lowering kit that would work with that lift height. Eventually I got around to swapping in a taller lift (TF 2.5" plus the 1 inch spacers) and now I need to relocate the rear TB to compensate for the additional lift PLUS changing the rear TB mount will allow a better geometry for the entire rear. (Somehow this should help my coil bend problem I am now thinking as well?) I can certainly flip the drag link in front to match this as I have a Synergy arm that will do this. I am guessing I will also need to flip the front track bar to keep it all parallel? My ongoing Jeep project... I missed a piece of the puzzle along the way.

I watched the TF video on installing their rear TB axle kit (just for one example) and it shows to be an easy enough install that should correct some of my problem. BUT.. should I expect to have to change my pinion angle after this at all? The TF video did not mention anything.

I am looking forward to making this easy change, if for nothing else a chance to work on the JK again.

Thanks for the assistance and please keep the helpful comments coming.

 

Changing the position of your rear tracbar will not help with your coils bowing. Your rear control arms adjust your pinion angle and in turn your coil orientation. You're on the right trac with installing an axle side tracbar bracket to help correct your rollcenter though. I just think if you shortened your rear uppers a bit and brought the pinion angle down it would help a bit with your coil bow. You want to aim for your pinion angle to be about 2 degrees less than your driveshaft

 

OK, phase one... replace rear track bar frame-side bracket with axle bracket. Part ordered. Will install ASAP.

Do I need to correct the front right away? Right now the front track bar and drag link are parallel to each other. Since the front and rear bars are mounted in frame to axle opposite sides, how do I determine if they are correct in relation from front to rear? Is this simply measuring the wheel track front to rear?

 

Leave the front alone for now. If you raise the track bar you will have to raise the drag link on the axle with a flip and add about 3.5" of bump stop or notch the frame. With your lift amount you may not have enough clearance.

 

Gotcha. Thanks again.

 

Others are providing lots of good info and my input may just be more of the same. I agree with Dirtman in that you really have to take a step back and determine a path for yourself and start making corrections to get there.

As many have done, I started with a lift and little knowledge of what I was doing and where I wanted to go. Fortunately I have purchased, mostly, equipment that I have not had to throw out with later changes. Also, I figured out early that if I wanted to continue to work on the Jeep myself, welding would be a necessary skill.

So, I would recommend that you think 4 or 5 steps ahead and start making corrections. If you want to fix the springs, then get perches that put the axle side of the spring back in the correct location. From the pictures you have provided the angle needs to change as well as the position. Like me, you probably need a spring perch that is not centered on the axle, but that is an inch or so farther forward. Look at Artec. Also, from the pictures, the bump stops look a bit tall. From what I can see, your up travel is limited to 3 or 4 inches before it hits the bump stop. I think with 285/70/17 tires you could do without the bump stops and get a lot more of the tire stuffed into the fender.


Anyhow, just my $.02

http://www.artecindustries.com/Rear-...air_p_328.html

Artec spring perch with 1" offset. ( I have no idea why the pic is upside down)...

 

I'm going with larger tires soon as my 285s are wearing out. I am wanting to go with new wheels and 35's like a good JK owner should.

I am going to try and get the perches moved to a correct position, change the rear TB mount to an axle mount and then evaluate if I need more lift for my 35's. If so, it's just more money...