Corporate 14 for JKs??
09-13-2011, 07:20 AM
#11
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09-13-2011, 07:26 AM
#12
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The c14 has a 10.5" ring gear, same as a d70 I beleive. The c14 is stronger than a d60 no doubt. I beat on my 60 with right at 500hp from a ls motor and 44" tires. Never broke it once.
I'm not sure about all the electric gizmos u would need to make it work. Someone who does will chime in hopefully. I prefer to get rid of as much of that stuff as I can and still have the jeep run.
I'm not sure about all the electric gizmos u would need to make it work. Someone who does will chime in hopefully. I prefer to get rid of as much of that stuff as I can and still have the jeep run.
Running the 99-03 SuperDuty Super 60 in the front of my JK. Completely ABS/ESP compliant with a little help from Currie. Very simple really. Just source the front unitized wheel bearings and stub shafts from Currie and it all bolts right on. Uses stock JK speed sensor installed backwards.
I'm building a 14 bolt for the rear. Not a difficult problem for the abs/esp. Just need a tone ring and mount for a speed sensor. The rest is easy.
The 14 bolt being the most bomb proof 1 ton axle isn't the ring gear size but rather the 3 bearings on the pinion gear instead of 2 *it supports both sides of the pinion gear so there is NO FLEX* . The only other axle I know to do that is the Ford 9". Which is why the Ford 9" is a popular axle. Also easier to build because of the 3rd member. Either axle should be fine for your application.
I'm building a 14 bolt for the rear. Not a difficult problem for the abs/esp. Just need a tone ring and mount for a speed sensor. The rest is easy.
The 14 bolt being the most bomb proof 1 ton axle isn't the ring gear size but rather the 3 bearings on the pinion gear instead of 2 *it supports both sides of the pinion gear so there is NO FLEX* . The only other axle I know to do that is the Ford 9". Which is why the Ford 9" is a popular axle. Also easier to build because of the 3rd member. Either axle should be fine for your application.
09-13-2011, 07:53 AM
#13
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Anyone that says a 14 bolt will match the clearance of a proper D60 (non junkyard), hasn't done their research. Also, a properly built D60 will strong enough to meet most application need.
If you are building a JKU and putting a 600hp V-8 in, you may need more however. The trade off is that you will lose 2" or more of clearance but dragging your rear diff isn't too big of a problem as it won't hurt anything (unless you shave it and leave less metal protecting the internals and housing's structural integrity).
I guess it depends on the application.
If you are building a JKU and putting a 600hp V-8 in, you may need more however. The trade off is that you will lose 2" or more of clearance but dragging your rear diff isn't too big of a problem as it won't hurt anything (unless you shave it and leave less metal protecting the internals and housing's structural integrity).
I guess it depends on the application.
09-13-2011, 07:59 AM
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A 9" ford the entire carrier, and R&P are removed from the front of the housing. There is no rear cover.
A 14b ff the pinion gear and a bolt on support are removed from front. The pinion gear is also supported on the inside by a third bearing. The carrier and ring gear are removed from the rear. There is a rear cover.
Google 14 bolt ff and you will get all kinds of info.
A 14b ff the pinion gear and a bolt on support are removed from front. The pinion gear is also supported on the inside by a third bearing. The carrier and ring gear are removed from the rear. There is a rear cover.
Google 14 bolt ff and you will get all kinds of info.
09-13-2011, 08:10 AM
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Anyone that says a 14 bolt will match the clearance of a proper D60 (non junkyard), hasn't done their research. Also, a properly built D60 will strong enough to meet most application need.
If you are building a JKU and putting a 600hp V-8 in, you may need more however. The trade off is that you will lose 2" or more of clearance but dragging your rear diff isn't too big of a problem as it won't hurt anything (unless you shave it and leave less metal protecting the internals and housing's structural integrity).
I guess it depends on the application.
If you are building a JKU and putting a 600hp V-8 in, you may need more however. The trade off is that you will lose 2" or more of clearance but dragging your rear diff isn't too big of a problem as it won't hurt anything (unless you shave it and leave less metal protecting the internals and housing's structural integrity).
I guess it depends on the application.
By needing more, do you mean a C14 may not be strong enough for that much grunt?A 9" ford the entire carrier, and R&P are removed from the front of the housing. There is no rear cover.
A 14b ff the pinion gear and a bolt on support are removed from front. The pinion gear is also supported on the inside by a third bearing. The carrier and ring gear are removed from the rear. There is a rear cover.
Google 14 bolt ff and you will get all kinds of info.
A 14b ff the pinion gear and a bolt on support are removed from front. The pinion gear is also supported on the inside by a third bearing. The carrier and ring gear are removed from the rear. There is a rear cover.
Google 14 bolt ff and you will get all kinds of info.
09-13-2011, 08:29 AM
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The biggest question is are you going to make it into a watchband build thread? And if so are you going to announce it on this thread? If so ill subscribe and decide if I want to do something similar.
09-13-2011, 09:46 AM
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Probably not as it will be a drawn out process that'll take all winter between suspension upgrades and building the axles, if that's the route I'm going to go.. Still want to look into a Dynatrac D70/80 rear axle as well..
09-13-2011, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by rws
Do you think you're built D60 could handle the same power on a vehicle almost a ton heavier? I would think that'd put alot more rotational torque on the axles... You have any pics of your YJ? Sounds like a beast..
Did you shaved the 14? We just shaved one down almost an inch and got a bunch more clearance.. Post up pics of that YJ!!
Now that's really interesting and a huge pro over the Dana's imo.. Would it be similar to change out the gears and fix problems on a 14 just like a 9"? You can get everything you need for the C14 from River Raider for the conversion, just spoke to them..
09-13-2011, 08:45 PM
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Anywho... I decided that the 14 is the way to go for me. I plan on running this V-6 w/ an Atlas 4 speed and 40" + tires in New England rocks (JEEP SIZED BOLDERS).
09-14-2011, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff76
Here are a few pics off my yj. Id go with the 14 bolt if your worried about breaking a 60. Weight shouldn't have much to do with breakage in a full float axle. Tire size, hp, and driving style are what mainly snaps axles.