Control arms questions
#1
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Control arms questions
Im looking to buy a complete short arm set up to go with the evo coilovers I just ordered. I'm particularly interested in the Currie, Clayton, RK, and Teraflex arms. I've searched as much as I can but haven't found the answers I'm looking for. My question is and Im hoping the vendors can chime in on this, is who offers the best warranty, and since I live on the east coast what joints are going to hold up the best?
#2
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Rock Krawler has their Abuse Proof Lifetime Warranty. Their joints:
For Gen III Krawler Joints, which is what we are now using, they are service free for years! They come with a grease grooves on the inside of the joint. When you feel they need to be serviced, back out the set screw holding the threaded retainer in, remove the threaded retainer, remove the ball and the poly race ways, then do a clean and inspect. If the race ways are good, then refill the grease groove with a high quality marine grade grease, put the far side race way back in, slide the ball in, put the near side race way in, apply some red loctite to the threaded retainer and tighten it all the way down, then tighten the set screw that holds the threaded retainer in.
Just clean the joints up w/ WD once in a while until the need serviced. I got the 7075 aluminum PRO arms so I wouldn't have to worry them rusting.
For Gen III Krawler Joints, which is what we are now using, they are service free for years! They come with a grease grooves on the inside of the joint. When you feel they need to be serviced, back out the set screw holding the threaded retainer in, remove the threaded retainer, remove the ball and the poly race ways, then do a clean and inspect. If the race ways are good, then refill the grease groove with a high quality marine grade grease, put the far side race way back in, slide the ball in, put the near side race way in, apply some red loctite to the threaded retainer and tighten it all the way down, then tighten the set screw that holds the threaded retainer in.
Just clean the joints up w/ WD once in a while until the need serviced. I got the 7075 aluminum PRO arms so I wouldn't have to worry them rusting.
#4
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Why do a SA & coil overs? Would you not benefit more from a LA & coil overs? If it were me & I was spending the coin on Evo I would keep it Evo all the way.
I will answer your question though & choose Currie. Currie johnny joints is a proven design. True & tested, easily rebuildable. Im a satisfied customer.
I will answer your question though & choose Currie. Currie johnny joints is a proven design. True & tested, easily rebuildable. Im a satisfied customer.
#5
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I am doing the same thing. Just doing it in steps, first coilovers, then I will go to long arms eventually. I just want to spend on other things first, then come back to the long arms. From what I read, most of the difference between the SA and LA will be the ride quality, it is not like we are losing huge amounts of travel or anything like that. From the Evo Coilover discussion, way of life responded to this question:
Quote Originally Posted by MilkMonkey View Post
12” of usable wheel travel will be the same, Long arm Vs. Short arm?
yes, it will be the same but the ride quality will be a bit different.
Quote Originally Posted by MilkMonkey View Post
12” of usable wheel travel will be the same, Long arm Vs. Short arm?
yes, it will be the same but the ride quality will be a bit different.
Last edited by open_speed; 06-22-2012 at 07:44 AM.
#6
Sponsoring Manufacturer
Why do a SA & coil overs? Would you not benefit more from a LA & coil overs? If it were me & I was spending the coin on Evo I would keep it Evo all the way.
I will answer your question though & choose Currie. Currie johnny joints is a proven design. True & tested, easily rebuildable. Im a satisfied customer.
I will answer your question though & choose Currie. Currie johnny joints is a proven design. True & tested, easily rebuildable. Im a satisfied customer.
We use Currie Johnny joints in all of the control arms. These hold up great with our Coilover kits