Complete 4" lifts
02-15-2010, 09:12 AM
#13
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where is that in the Tera Flex add..... Its not up for a company to do research for you... And there are plenty of people on this for running stock drive shafts with there 4in lift. You make it sound like when you put a 4in lift on all of a sudden the jeeps drive shaft is going to explode..... There is alot of over exaggeration in this forum..
02-15-2010, 09:15 AM
#14
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where is that in the Tera Flex add..... Its not up for a company to do research for you... And there are plenty of people on this for running stock drive shafts with there 4in lift. You make it sound like when you put a 4in lift on all of a sudden the jeeps drive shaft is going to explode..... There is alot of over exaggeration in this forum..
its not an over exaggeration, it will explode, its just a matter of when
02-15-2010, 09:18 AM
#15
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no im not saying it wont..... I know it dose.... Its just every one makes it sound like it happens the next day.... and if you put 35in tiers on your axles are going to brake and your stock gears are going to be so slow....... There all over exaggerations.
02-15-2010, 10:02 AM
#16
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Wow planman, you really don't like RC do you!
I run JKS quick discos because I like the design better. If I wanted that style disco I would have bought the RC ones over others that cost twice as much. I will not need a rear drive nor do I see any other kits include one with 4" of lift, it’s not needed. I have a drop pitman arm that was included with my kit and my steering is fine. I haven't had my rear springs contact the rear track bar so that doesn’t seem to be a problem. I have added gussets to the front and rear track bar brackets, the lower control arm brackets and the C's. These are all well known weak areas on the JK and can be fixed with little to no money and a welder. I do take my JK off road and have not had any problems with the 35's rubbing. I might add a set of bump stops in the future for some extra security but for now the ones on the shocks seem to be working fine.
I run JKS quick discos because I like the design better. If I wanted that style disco I would have bought the RC ones over others that cost twice as much. I will not need a rear drive nor do I see any other kits include one with 4" of lift, it’s not needed. I have a drop pitman arm that was included with my kit and my steering is fine. I haven't had my rear springs contact the rear track bar so that doesn’t seem to be a problem. I have added gussets to the front and rear track bar brackets, the lower control arm brackets and the C's. These are all well known weak areas on the JK and can be fixed with little to no money and a welder. I do take my JK off road and have not had any problems with the 35's rubbing. I might add a set of bump stops in the future for some extra security but for now the ones on the shocks seem to be working fine.
02-15-2010, 10:07 AM
#18
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I just don't see why every one thinks that quality is compromised when the price is lower..... As long as they stand by there product witch from what I have seen they do....... I don't see a problem with there kit..
02-15-2010, 10:27 AM
#19
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The RC kit needs extended bumpstops to run larger than 33" tires with stock flares if you offroad it. The in-shock bumpstops will not keep your tires out of your fender flares. They are only designed to stop the shocks from bottoming out.
I am sure if all these manufacturers printed the specs of their DOM tubing, the thickness and strength of their swaybar links, the specs of their rebuildable flex joints, the difference between clevite rubber bushings and poly bushings, the thickness of the steel used on their contol arm ends, etc., etc., etc., it would be very evident to everyone why the RC kit is price 60% as much as the others.
Maybe just the shipping weight difference between the lifts would be enough to know there is a difference.
You get what you pay for, and you can't expect a $1200 lift to be the same quality as a $2000 lift.
If someone is on a budget, a 4" lift should not be considered as an option. 4" will eventually require new driveshafts on automatics and atleast a rear driveshaft on 6 speeds. 4" also will need reinforced axle side trackbar brackets. It should eventually include steering correction. Additionally, on a 2 door, 4" will require modification to the rear lower spring perches because the rear springs will bow back so much that they will regularly contact the rear trackbar.
As long as you know what you will be in for, that's fine. However, you cannot do 4" on a budget without causing other issues.
Hammerhead runs JKS front discos ($147) instead of RC discos ($60) for a reason. Because he has a 6 speed 4 door, his front stock driveshaft will be fine for some time, but if the RC kit really gave him 4", he will eventually need a rear driveshaft. Also, if he wheels it, he will need to reinforce his axle side trackbar brackets both front and rear, and he should have extended bumpstops. He should inspect the welds on his front trackbar axle side bracket to make sure they haven't cracked yet, and at least weld reinforcement gussets on it.
If RC stopped selling a 6" TJ short arm lift, the fixed arm JK 4" and 6" lifts, included extended bumpstops in their JK kits they advertise are good for 35"+ tires, clearly stated that their 4" JK lifts will require lower rear spring perch modifications on 2 doors, clearly stated that automatic JKs will require new front driveshafts with a 4" lift, clearly stated that 2 door JKs will require new rear driveshafts with anything over a 3" lift, clearly stated that their 1.25" body lift is not advisable for 6 speed JKs, and sold hubcentric wheel spacers instead of lug centric wheel spacers, etc., etc., I would begin to believe that they want long-term happy customers. Until then, I cynically believe they target inexperienced fellow jeepers with a lower pricepoint/quality product without fully disclosing the side effects of using some (not all) of their products.
This isn't against anyone who runs RC stuff, or their reps who participate in the forums.
I am sure if you owned a TJ and talked to one of these reps about the RC 6" short arm lift, he would tell you it is a terrible idea and atleast try to convice you to do their 6" long arm instead.
I am sure if you spoke with the RC rep on this forum and told him you had a 2 door JK on which you wanted to run their 4" flex arm kit, he would tell you you would need to budget for a new rear driveshaft, rear spring perch correction/relocation, etc.
I am sure if all these manufacturers printed the specs of their DOM tubing, the thickness and strength of their swaybar links, the specs of their rebuildable flex joints, the difference between clevite rubber bushings and poly bushings, the thickness of the steel used on their contol arm ends, etc., etc., etc., it would be very evident to everyone why the RC kit is price 60% as much as the others.
Maybe just the shipping weight difference between the lifts would be enough to know there is a difference.
You get what you pay for, and you can't expect a $1200 lift to be the same quality as a $2000 lift.
If someone is on a budget, a 4" lift should not be considered as an option. 4" will eventually require new driveshafts on automatics and atleast a rear driveshaft on 6 speeds. 4" also will need reinforced axle side trackbar brackets. It should eventually include steering correction. Additionally, on a 2 door, 4" will require modification to the rear lower spring perches because the rear springs will bow back so much that they will regularly contact the rear trackbar.
As long as you know what you will be in for, that's fine. However, you cannot do 4" on a budget without causing other issues.
Hammerhead runs JKS front discos ($147) instead of RC discos ($60) for a reason. Because he has a 6 speed 4 door, his front stock driveshaft will be fine for some time, but if the RC kit really gave him 4", he will eventually need a rear driveshaft. Also, if he wheels it, he will need to reinforce his axle side trackbar brackets both front and rear, and he should have extended bumpstops. He should inspect the welds on his front trackbar axle side bracket to make sure they haven't cracked yet, and at least weld reinforcement gussets on it.
If RC stopped selling a 6" TJ short arm lift, the fixed arm JK 4" and 6" lifts, included extended bumpstops in their JK kits they advertise are good for 35"+ tires, clearly stated that their 4" JK lifts will require lower rear spring perch modifications on 2 doors, clearly stated that automatic JKs will require new front driveshafts with a 4" lift, clearly stated that 2 door JKs will require new rear driveshafts with anything over a 3" lift, clearly stated that their 1.25" body lift is not advisable for 6 speed JKs, and sold hubcentric wheel spacers instead of lug centric wheel spacers, etc., etc., I would begin to believe that they want long-term happy customers. Until then, I cynically believe they target inexperienced fellow jeepers with a lower pricepoint/quality product without fully disclosing the side effects of using some (not all) of their products.
This isn't against anyone who runs RC stuff, or their reps who participate in the forums.
I am sure if you owned a TJ and talked to one of these reps about the RC 6" short arm lift, he would tell you it is a terrible idea and atleast try to convice you to do their 6" long arm instead.
I am sure if you spoke with the RC rep on this forum and told him you had a 2 door JK on which you wanted to run their 4" flex arm kit, he would tell you you would need to budget for a new rear driveshaft, rear spring perch correction/relocation, etc.
02-15-2010, 10:43 AM
#20
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The RC kit needs extended bumpstops to run larger than 33" tires with stock flares if you offroad it. The in-shock bumpstops will not keep your tires out of your fender flares. They are only designed to stop the shocks from bottoming out.
I am sure if all these manufacturers printed the specs of their DOM tubing, the thickness and strength of their swaybar links, the specs of their rebuildable flex joints, the difference between clevite rubber bushings and poly bushings, the thickness of the steel used on their contol arm ends, etc., etc., etc., it would be very evident to everyone why the RC kit is price 60% as much as the others.
Maybe just the shipping weight difference between the lifts would be enough to know there is a difference.
You get what you pay for, and you can't expect a $1200 lift to be the same quality as a $2000 lift.
If someone is on a budget, a 4" lift should not be considered as an option. 4" will eventually require new driveshafts on automatics and atleast a rear driveshaft on 6 speeds. 4" also will need reinforced axle side trackbar brackets. It should eventually include steering correction. Additionally, on a 2 door, 4" will require modification to the rear lower spring perches because the rear springs will bow back so much that they will regularly contact the rear trackbar.
As long as you know what you will be in for, that's fine. However, you cannot do 4" on a budget without causing other issues.
Hammerhead runs JKS front discos ($147) instead of RC discos ($60) for a reason. Because he has a 6 speed 4 door, his front stock driveshaft will be fine for some time, but if the RC kit really gave him 4", he will eventually need a rear driveshaft. Also, if he wheels it, he will need to reinforce his axle side trackbar brackets both front and rear, and he should have extended bumpstops. He should inspect the welds on his front trackbar axle side bracket to make sure they haven't cracked yet, and at least weld reinforcement gussets on it.
If RC stopped selling a 6" TJ short arm lift, the fixed arm JK 4" and 6" lifts, included extended bumpstops in their JK kits they advertise are good for 35"+ tires, clearly stated that their 4" JK lifts will require lower rear spring perch modifications on 2 doors, clearly stated that automatic JKs will require new front driveshafts with a 4" lift, clearly stated that 2 door JKs will require new rear driveshafts with anything over a 3" lift, clearly stated that their 1.25" body lift is not advisable for 6 speed JKs, and sold hubcentric wheel spacers instead of lug centric wheel spacers, etc., etc., I would begin to believe that they want long-term happy customers. Until then, I cynically believe they target inexperienced fellow jeepers with a lower pricepoint/quality product without fully disclosing the side effects of using some (not all) of their products.
This isn't against anyone who runs RC stuff, or their reps who participate in the forums.
I am sure if you owned a TJ and talked to one of these reps about the RC 6" short arm lift, he would tell you it is a terrible idea and atleast try to convice you to do their 6" long arm instead.
I am sure if you spoke with the RC rep on this forum and told him you had a 2 door JK on which you wanted to run their 4" flex arm kit, he would tell you you would need to budget for a new rear driveshaft, rear spring perch correction/relocation, etc.
I am sure if all these manufacturers printed the specs of their DOM tubing, the thickness and strength of their swaybar links, the specs of their rebuildable flex joints, the difference between clevite rubber bushings and poly bushings, the thickness of the steel used on their contol arm ends, etc., etc., etc., it would be very evident to everyone why the RC kit is price 60% as much as the others.
Maybe just the shipping weight difference between the lifts would be enough to know there is a difference.
You get what you pay for, and you can't expect a $1200 lift to be the same quality as a $2000 lift.
If someone is on a budget, a 4" lift should not be considered as an option. 4" will eventually require new driveshafts on automatics and atleast a rear driveshaft on 6 speeds. 4" also will need reinforced axle side trackbar brackets. It should eventually include steering correction. Additionally, on a 2 door, 4" will require modification to the rear lower spring perches because the rear springs will bow back so much that they will regularly contact the rear trackbar.
As long as you know what you will be in for, that's fine. However, you cannot do 4" on a budget without causing other issues.
Hammerhead runs JKS front discos ($147) instead of RC discos ($60) for a reason. Because he has a 6 speed 4 door, his front stock driveshaft will be fine for some time, but if the RC kit really gave him 4", he will eventually need a rear driveshaft. Also, if he wheels it, he will need to reinforce his axle side trackbar brackets both front and rear, and he should have extended bumpstops. He should inspect the welds on his front trackbar axle side bracket to make sure they haven't cracked yet, and at least weld reinforcement gussets on it.
If RC stopped selling a 6" TJ short arm lift, the fixed arm JK 4" and 6" lifts, included extended bumpstops in their JK kits they advertise are good for 35"+ tires, clearly stated that their 4" JK lifts will require lower rear spring perch modifications on 2 doors, clearly stated that automatic JKs will require new front driveshafts with a 4" lift, clearly stated that 2 door JKs will require new rear driveshafts with anything over a 3" lift, clearly stated that their 1.25" body lift is not advisable for 6 speed JKs, and sold hubcentric wheel spacers instead of lug centric wheel spacers, etc., etc., I would begin to believe that they want long-term happy customers. Until then, I cynically believe they target inexperienced fellow jeepers with a lower pricepoint/quality product without fully disclosing the side effects of using some (not all) of their products.
This isn't against anyone who runs RC stuff, or their reps who participate in the forums.
I am sure if you owned a TJ and talked to one of these reps about the RC 6" short arm lift, he would tell you it is a terrible idea and atleast try to convice you to do their 6" long arm instead.
I am sure if you spoke with the RC rep on this forum and told him you had a 2 door JK on which you wanted to run their 4" flex arm kit, he would tell you you would need to budget for a new rear driveshaft, rear spring perch correction/relocation, etc.
I will do my best to try to answer some of this...
Our specs are typically close... and is not the main reason that we are priced lower than competition. Here are the main reasons that we are priced lower;
- WE SELL DIRECT, WE ARE THE WAREHOUSE. That is where most of your 40% cheaper comes from. Our kits are marked up 1 time. Not 1x manufacturer, 1x warehouse, 1x for the reseller.
- We keep our costs low, our sources in check and don't do large sponsorships (Truck racing, super expensive SEMA builds, etc.) Even our company vehicles are on a tight budget.
- We build, order everything in large volumes. And yes some of it comes from overseas. But we do build everything in the US that we can be competitive with.
- Our Jeep Arms range from .188 to .250 DOM tubing. All arms are strong and are covered under warranty.
- Our X-flex joints actually are better than Forged joints that we tested them against. They are built from 2 5/8" .25" Wall DOM with 1.25" threads. Our X-flex joint actually cost more than the forged type, but we can build them within our town. We fab and mold the bushings right here in Dyersburg, TN. I guarantee they are built to last.
- The poly / rubber bushing argument could go on for days. They both have Pros/ Cons and we actually use both of them on different kits. Poly has been in use in the off-road industry forever. It's durable and does not have to be pressed in/out like rubber. Our poly is supposed to blended to be closer to the durometer of rubber. This has no impact on the cost of the kit, they are esentially the same costs.
We have tested our 4" kit on 2 door JK's that have 20K+ miles on them now. We just had a 2door JK in the shop to check out. The Drive shaft has no problems. Actually we have thousands of 4" 2 and 4 door kits out in the field and I have not heard of a single driveshaft failure. I'm not saying that it can't happen... but it must be very rare. Maybe it's because our 4" kit actually nets 4" and not 5"-6" like our competitors???
To my knowledge we have not had any issues with Lug centric wheel spacers or our disconnects.
"I would begin to believe that they want long-term happy customers. Until then, I cynically believe they target inexperienced fellow jeepers with a lower pricepoint/quality product without fully disclosing the side effects of using some (not all) of their products."
Claiming that we don't car about Long-term happy customers is crazy. We have been in business like 30 years and continue to grow. Our business is built off of repeat customers.
- We offer 60 days satisfaction guarantee refund. So if you don't like a kit, send it back for a full refund.
- All components are covered against failure. So if you bend, break something, we will replace it.
- 3 day or less shipping anywhere in the US. If it is instock you will have it within 3 days
Last edited by rcjeep; 02-15-2010 at 11:13 AM.