COMING BACK TO YOU..... Brand NEW 2016 rubicon build.
#11
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If you ant to run mc joints, I would just run their arms, I doubt you are going to be out rock bouncing your jeep. All you are really adding to your jeep with RK arms is extra weight. Looks like you are just throwing out a bunch of names without really thinking about the build as a whole. Sure you can add longer coils or add a spacer over time if you wish. Will the shocks match up to the height? Maybe maybe not. Most people don't really set things up properly, they just install what was in the kit. Extra height generally means more components, think high steer and driveline angles. Lots of stuff to make it drive good on the road which is what this looks like the build will be.
#12
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the gen 2 smittybuilt products suit my needs, saw both bumpers in person and fit all my requirements. only problem is the shitty leds built into the rear. yes the tubing may not be up to par, but for a DD it will work just fine.
i understand this all might sound rock crawler or Mall crawler, but i have my reasons and reasoning. and experience, so im not behind the ball, just mostly decided with a few remaining questions. my 12JKU was built in my and a forum friends garage. 90% on my own, so this is my second go around. in the past 4 years, jeep, to audi s6, to bmw x5 forums, this seems to be one of the more hostile environments in recent experience.
thank you everyone for the help and kind words, jeeps are way too customization to have any type of opinion, except what works for you.
Last edited by jkjouster; 04-06-2016 at 08:19 AM.
#13
JK Jedi
Huh, I counted 7 different brands thrown out in your first post along with a description of your beemer which in truth nobody but you cares about or has any real validity on a jeep forum. Not being hostel here, just blunt, start a Facebook page if you are looking for "likes". You seem to have everything figured out but can't decide on 1" difference in height? Its your jeep, build it like you want it. The biggest drawbacks about big lifts on the factory axle is the lack of caster and the stability.
Idk it seems you are just posting to show off a new rig and how you can throw money at it then really asking advice. Moab is not hard with a JKU on 35's and lockers, if you can drive at all you will not have any issues there. I really can't see someone with a brand new rig trying extreme trails where roll overs and body damage are common, but you may have so much money you don't care about such things. You should be fine with any aftermarket control arm to run to Moab and back and are overthinking a non issue using one brand of control arm and replacing with a different joint. Personally if I were to choose an adjustable short arm today it would be Synergy with their double adjusters and new joints.
As far as a daily driver on 35's of course 2.5" (more likely 3"+ from those coils) would do you better for 99% of the driving you are going to do. It makes no sense to build a vehicle for one trail you might hit in your lifetime. Moab is about the scenery more then anything, the trails were tough on old jeeps with 8" of ground clearance on 28" tires and no lockers. If you want to see some real hard trails just run up north to Windsock in TN or Black mountain in KY.
Idk it seems you are just posting to show off a new rig and how you can throw money at it then really asking advice. Moab is not hard with a JKU on 35's and lockers, if you can drive at all you will not have any issues there. I really can't see someone with a brand new rig trying extreme trails where roll overs and body damage are common, but you may have so much money you don't care about such things. You should be fine with any aftermarket control arm to run to Moab and back and are overthinking a non issue using one brand of control arm and replacing with a different joint. Personally if I were to choose an adjustable short arm today it would be Synergy with their double adjusters and new joints.
As far as a daily driver on 35's of course 2.5" (more likely 3"+ from those coils) would do you better for 99% of the driving you are going to do. It makes no sense to build a vehicle for one trail you might hit in your lifetime. Moab is about the scenery more then anything, the trails were tough on old jeeps with 8" of ground clearance on 28" tires and no lockers. If you want to see some real hard trails just run up north to Windsock in TN or Black mountain in KY.
#14
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Huh, I counted 7 different brands thrown out in your first post along with a description of your beemer which in truth nobody but you cares about or has any real validity on a jeep forum. Not being hostel here, just blunt, start a Facebook page if you are looking for "likes". You seem to have everything figured out but can't decide on 1" difference in height? Its your jeep, build it like you want it. The biggest drawbacks about big lifts on the factory axle is the lack of caster and the stability.
Idk it seems you are just posting to show off a new rig and how you can throw money at it then really asking advice. Moab is not hard with a JKU on 35's and lockers, if you can drive at all you will not have any issues there. I really can't see someone with a brand new rig trying extreme trails where roll overs and body damage are common, but you may have so much money you don't care about such things. You should be fine with any aftermarket control arm to run to Moab and back and are overthinking a non issue using one brand of control arm and replacing with a different joint. Personally if I were to choose an adjustable short arm today it would be Synergy with their double adjusters and new joints.
As far as a daily driver on 35's of course 2.5" (more likely 3"+ from those coils) would do you better for 99% of the driving you are going to do. It makes no sense to build a vehicle for one trail you might hit in your lifetime. Moab is about the scenery more then anything, the trails were tough on old jeeps with 8" of ground clearance on 28" tires and no lockers. If you want to see some real hard trails just run up north to Windsock in TN or Black mountain in KY.
Idk it seems you are just posting to show off a new rig and how you can throw money at it then really asking advice. Moab is not hard with a JKU on 35's and lockers, if you can drive at all you will not have any issues there. I really can't see someone with a brand new rig trying extreme trails where roll overs and body damage are common, but you may have so much money you don't care about such things. You should be fine with any aftermarket control arm to run to Moab and back and are overthinking a non issue using one brand of control arm and replacing with a different joint. Personally if I were to choose an adjustable short arm today it would be Synergy with their double adjusters and new joints.
As far as a daily driver on 35's of course 2.5" (more likely 3"+ from those coils) would do you better for 99% of the driving you are going to do. It makes no sense to build a vehicle for one trail you might hit in your lifetime. Moab is about the scenery more then anything, the trails were tough on old jeeps with 8" of ground clearance on 28" tires and no lockers. If you want to see some real hard trails just run up north to Windsock in TN or Black mountain in KY.
of course no one but bmw owners care to hear..i was just venting for an easier release...actually just signed the papers for the rubicon so im happy, and said my goodbyes...it was difficult. just background on my story..again dont think anyone would care but who gives...
and in no way am throwing money at this build, i had a budget, and got the basics i had to have. just want to do it right once suspension wise, and its my 1 and only vehicle DDer. want it to to be tough, usable and not all that much mall crawler, not looking for likes or lust, just input form the people on here with knowledge like yourself...
synergy is quality but not sure which kit in particular your motioning
#15
JK Jedi
I was referring to the synergy arms, not a specific kit. They have several to choose from in different heights and completeness. They use a joint similar to the MC joint and the double adjuster makes dialing in the suspension easier since you don't have tor remove the arms on one end to adjust. Off road evolution has an arm with the double adjuster as well but uses the proven Johnny Joint, a bit different from what you were looking at. I try not to recommend brands but what from what you were looking at and the fact you have been away from jeeps you may not be aware of synergy's new joints. They don't get near the input from fanboys and reps as the MC and RK products get.
I saw the OME shocks you were asking about at 4w parts today and I think they ran $489 each. A King double bypass runs around $530 so their is a slight different in price. As far as kings needing to be rebuilt, that is typical for a race shock that is being raced. Installed on a non race vehicle that does not see the abuse they should last just as long as any other quality shock. Either is really overkill for what you are looking at doing with the jeep but as long as you don't need to change the travel of the shock they should be the last shock you would ever need to buy.
I saw the OME shocks you were asking about at 4w parts today and I think they ran $489 each. A King double bypass runs around $530 so their is a slight different in price. As far as kings needing to be rebuilt, that is typical for a race shock that is being raced. Installed on a non race vehicle that does not see the abuse they should last just as long as any other quality shock. Either is really overkill for what you are looking at doing with the jeep but as long as you don't need to change the travel of the shock they should be the last shock you would ever need to buy.
#16
#18
Super Moderator
Huh, I counted 7 different brands thrown out in your first post along with a description of your beemer which in truth nobody but you cares about or has any real validity on a jeep forum. Not being hostel here, just blunt, start a Facebook page if you are looking for "likes".
#19
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I myself debated between the MC game changer and the RK x factor. I ended up getting the RK 3.5 x factor kit based on the deal I got from Northridge 4x4. I installed it myself in a weekend and have been driving with it for about a month now and have no complaints. I upgraded to Fox shox with the kit and I can say it rides better then stock. It has great flex and the control arms are super beefy. I am happy with the outcome!
#20
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came down to this
Rock krawler 2.5 Expedition kit with 3/4 inch front spacer added
OME BP51 shocks
Crawler Coneptz fenders Linexed
Poison spyder inner fender liner rattle canned black and modified/chopped
rides freekin fantastic... alittle flighty, i think its the toe...
Rock krawler 2.5 Expedition kit with 3/4 inch front spacer added
OME BP51 shocks
Crawler Coneptz fenders Linexed
Poison spyder inner fender liner rattle canned black and modified/chopped
rides freekin fantastic... alittle flighty, i think its the toe...