Coating bare metal Poison Spyder equipment
06-21-2016, 07:53 AM
#23
Former Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: NE
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
06-21-2016, 08:03 AM
#24
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 199
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
x2. This is my plan for bumpers, fenders, and sliders. I did this on my PSC diff covers about 2 years ago and they still look great. Wipe it down with rubbing alcohol, spray on a coat of self-etching primer and then Rustoleum bed liner from Home Depot. Simple to touch up when it gets scratched and simple to match new parts if you add something else later.
06-21-2016, 09:31 AM
#25
JK Freak
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 517
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey guys,
Just as the title reads, I am in line to purchase some PSC stuff (Front/rear bumpers with skid plate and full body mount spare carrier).
Unfortunately for me, the stuff I want is NOT available in their "SpiderShell" coating from the factory. I have come to the conclusion that THESE are in fact the bumpers and tire carrier for me, so subbing in other bumpers is NOT an option.
I have consulted a professional Line-X dealer here in Omaha, and with the sand-blasting, the metal etch coat, Line-X primer, then the heat applied Line-X itself, the cost to do all three pieces is quoted at around the $950 USD mark. That is way, WAY, WAY out of my budget to get the stuff coated.
Not to mention, that although its guaranteed, and Im sure as, or MORE bomb-proof than any other coating, the Line-X is still VERY bumpy and has a lot of texture..............way more than I liked, and looks rougher than I wanted.
I also consulted several professional powder coaters. Also needing to be sand-blasted, as well as powder coat-primed, then powder coated, the cost with all that is also around the $900 mark.
Im NOT down for doing it myself as the fudge factor for getting it wrong is way too high, and I would like the coating backed/guaranteed as well if possible.
What Im wondering is what does everyone else do in situations like this were you need to coat bare parts?
Is there anything out the comparable to PSC's "SpiderShell" coating that is durable similar to Line-X, but smooth similar to powder coating?
Any help greatly appreciated.
TIA
Brian
Just as the title reads, I am in line to purchase some PSC stuff (Front/rear bumpers with skid plate and full body mount spare carrier).
Unfortunately for me, the stuff I want is NOT available in their "SpiderShell" coating from the factory. I have come to the conclusion that THESE are in fact the bumpers and tire carrier for me, so subbing in other bumpers is NOT an option.
I have consulted a professional Line-X dealer here in Omaha, and with the sand-blasting, the metal etch coat, Line-X primer, then the heat applied Line-X itself, the cost to do all three pieces is quoted at around the $950 USD mark. That is way, WAY, WAY out of my budget to get the stuff coated.
Not to mention, that although its guaranteed, and Im sure as, or MORE bomb-proof than any other coating, the Line-X is still VERY bumpy and has a lot of texture..............way more than I liked, and looks rougher than I wanted.
I also consulted several professional powder coaters. Also needing to be sand-blasted, as well as powder coat-primed, then powder coated, the cost with all that is also around the $900 mark.
Im NOT down for doing it myself as the fudge factor for getting it wrong is way too high, and I would like the coating backed/guaranteed as well if possible.
What Im wondering is what does everyone else do in situations like this were you need to coat bare parts?
Is there anything out the comparable to PSC's "SpiderShell" coating that is durable similar to Line-X, but smooth similar to powder coating?
Any help greatly appreciated.
TIA
Brian
If you want a nice looking "mall crawler" then I would look to have it powder coated.
I spent a bunch of money powder coating my PSC parts and have banged and scratched them up on the Colorado granite, which was a total waste of money in my opinion.
06-21-2016, 10:27 AM
#26
No I think it was called Great Plains powder coating. One of the local metal workers told me they coated black on Tuesday so I stopped by with my cover and the said they'd do it for $50. That was about two years ago so they may do black on a different day.
06-21-2016, 10:46 AM
#27
Former Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: NE
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks guys. For around $300 USD, Im down. These do require sand-blasting or some other means of of getting the grime off of the raw metal; this was even in the PSC write up for their bumpers, so Ill take a pro application over anything I can spray paint myself.
I have quite a bit of experience using powder-coated stuff, (hot rod days, and previous PC installs on a previous rig I built in NorCal where I used to live) and from my experience the painted stuff gets scratched and messed up WAY sooner than powder-coating and WAY WAY sooner than a Line-X install.
Having been to Moab 5 times, the Rubicon twice, and with reservations for EJS 2017 the last thing Blue will be is a Mall-crawler.
For me, Im the opposite, and deem the professional application WAY worth the money when your off road on the twisties. Its about 10 times as durable as paint, and I found any scratches on a painted surface leads to rust WAY faster than powder coating. I do NOT intend on touching things up after every wheeling adventure like it would likely take with plain old paint.
Each to his own on that front as ANY coating I apply or have applied is going to scratch up, its just a matter of how bad, and how much/often I will have to touch it up.
In my personal experience, a powder coat applied correctly and professionally, especially if they sandblast first, will last way WAY longer than any paint I could apply myself.
I have quite a bit of experience using powder-coated stuff, (hot rod days, and previous PC installs on a previous rig I built in NorCal where I used to live) and from my experience the painted stuff gets scratched and messed up WAY sooner than powder-coating and WAY WAY sooner than a Line-X install.
Having been to Moab 5 times, the Rubicon twice, and with reservations for EJS 2017 the last thing Blue will be is a Mall-crawler.
For me, Im the opposite, and deem the professional application WAY worth the money when your off road on the twisties. Its about 10 times as durable as paint, and I found any scratches on a painted surface leads to rust WAY faster than powder coating. I do NOT intend on touching things up after every wheeling adventure like it would likely take with plain old paint.
Each to his own on that front as ANY coating I apply or have applied is going to scratch up, its just a matter of how bad, and how much/often I will have to touch it up.
In my personal experience, a powder coat applied correctly and professionally, especially if they sandblast first, will last way WAY longer than any paint I could apply myself.
Last edited by Out2gtcha; 06-21-2016 at 10:51 AM.
06-21-2016, 10:49 AM
#28
Former Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: NE
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
06-26-2016, 03:05 PM
#29
JK Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: texas
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just skimmed. This may have been said already. The powder coating holds up so much better than paint. If ur local powder coating place is higher than what PSC charges. Just have PSC do it. Then paint over the powder coat b3 u install. If u wheel. Ur going to have to touch them up anyway. Easier to put a coat of paint on while they r off. Then easy to touch up after u scrape them. Plus. The paint won't be exactly the same as the powder coat and if u touch up a spot. It's going to be a diff color and stick out like a sore thumb. My local ppl did mine. I also didn't want what PSC offered. But was about 250 for front and rear and skids. Did mine in textured black. Matches very well to the matte black that I have sprayed on other parts. I was lucky and found a textured black paint at Walmart that matches perfectly. So when I scrape a spot. Not only does the paint match but it has the same texture. B4 I found that. It looked bad because I had a spot that matched in color but was smooth and I couldn't not see it. But now. Nobody can even tell I touch it up as needed. It's Rustoleum. Fine textured finish. 
That bumper has been painted w this can and matches great.
That bumper has been painted w this can and matches great.
