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Coast 1310 Driveshaft Maintenance

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Old 06-17-2011, 08:40 PM
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Default Coast 1310 Driveshaft Maintenance

So, I tried searching using various keywords and can't seem to find anything. If this has been discussed, I'd appreciate someone pointing me in the right direction.

Have a Coast 1310 Front and Rear Driveshaft and after hearing all the horror stories about double carden driveshafts damaging transfer cases, I thought it'd be best to make sure I did some routine maintenance on mine. Both the front and the rear have a grease zerk on the driveshaft itself - but how does one go about greasing/lubing the U-joints? I remember mkjeep mentioning in a post a while back about needing to drop the driveshafts to get to it but now I can't locate the thread in which he'd posted it.

This brings the questions:
  • Do I need to drop the driveshafts?
  • How simple is it to do this? Just undo the bolts at each end? My setup has yokes that came with the driveshaft.
  • What other things would I need to do this?

Thanks in advance. Have a long trip coming up to Moab/Ouray starting July 1st and I want to make sure everything's good to go before that.
Old 06-17-2011, 10:46 PM
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It's quick and easy to drop the shaft, just remove the bolts at each end and pull it down.

Several previous posts have indicated that Coast uses a non-greasable joint (ball?) in the double cardan. If that is what you have, then drive it til it fails. 50-70k or so is what I recall seeing, but I would imagine there would be other factors involved. (I have not seen a coast shaft in person, so I don't know if there is a option of a greasable joint or if they are all "maintenance free".)

If that joint does have a zerk fitting, you will need to drop the shaft to get in there. You will need a needle adapter for it.

The whole process doesn't take long, so you might want to just schedule it into your normal tire rotation/oil change schedule.
Old 06-18-2011, 04:30 AM
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This write-up shows you how they're attached to the aftermarket yolks....#14 thru #19
http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...ation-write-up

I drop mine every 3- 4000 miles. Some people say they can get to the upper dbl carden joints without removing, I cannot. Easier just to pull it out, for me anyway.

Last edited by mkjeep; 06-18-2011 at 04:36 AM.
Old 06-18-2011, 04:51 AM
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while were talking about driveshafts, whats the dif between a 1310 and 1350
Old 06-18-2011, 04:56 AM
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Originally Posted by dillUSMC
while were talking about driveshafts, whats the dif between a 1310 and 1350
Larger , heavier shaft and u-joints, in fact they're almost monster size. I don't know how many cracked t-cases were running 1310's vs 1350's, but it seems as that could play a factor in it. Along with vibes, poorly maintained joints,pinion angle and balance. jmoho
Old 06-18-2011, 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by interceptor_1972
how does one go about greasing/lubing the U-joints?
coast uses spicer u-joints and they do not need greasing. just like any u-joint, you will want to replace them approximately once every 2 years or so depending on how much you drive, wheel and in what kind of enviroments.

I remember mkjeep mentioning in a post a while back about needing to drop the driveshafts to get to it but now I can't locate the thread in which he'd posted it.
you'll want to drop the shaft so that you can get some grease on the center ball of the double cardan.

This brings the questions:
  • Do I need to drop the driveshafts?
  • How simple is it to do this? Just undo the bolts at each end? My setup has yokes that came with the driveshaft.
  • What other things would I need to do this?
yes, you'll want to drop the shaft to grease the double cardan, yes, it's easy to do just by removing the bolts on each end.
Old 06-18-2011, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by mkjeep
Larger , heavier shaft and u-joints, in fact they're almost monster size. I don't know how many cracked t-cases were running 1310's vs 1350's, but it seems as that could play a factor in it. Along with vibes, poorly maintained joints,pinion angle and balance. jmoho
what mk said
Old 06-18-2011, 06:46 AM
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I now have coast drive shafts, the front came in the mail from nothridge Wednesday. Seeing this thread help me some cause I need to put it on. I had the local shop look at putting it on for a few bucks(since I don't have a shop). Lol they told me that I need to have it pressed together and need new seals an to take apart the T-case to take off stock shaft. They ask to set up an appointment and I sad no-thanks. I don't want a shop that doesn't know what there doing puttin on a BOLT ON shaft that doesnt need to be pressed. Lol I can't believe it money hungry shops.

It's sad cause this is my local shop with people I kno and they work on my jeep all the time :(
Old 06-18-2011, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by mkjeep
This write-up shows you how they're attached to the aftermarket yolks....#14 thru #19
http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...ation-write-up

I drop mine every 3- 4000 miles. Some people say they can get to the upper dbl carden joints without removing, I cannot. Easier just to pull it out, for me anyway.
Thanks for that link mk. That helps

Originally Posted by wayoflife
coast uses spicer u-joints and they do not need greasing. just like any u-joint, you will want to replace them approximately once every 2 years or so depending on how much you drive, wheel and in what kind of enviroments.

you'll want to drop the shaft so that you can get some grease on the center ball of the double cardan.

yes, you'll want to drop the shaft to grease the double cardan, yes, it's easy to do just by removing the bolts on each end.
Thanks for the good info . Having recently been through some serious mud up to the axle, I wanted to make sure that everything is good and lubed up. Know what I'll be doing Sunday.
Old 06-18-2011, 08:45 AM
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Just so you know, taking your transfer case skid off makes getting to the tcase bolts alot easier. I alway jack up the front aswell so I can spin a front tire tire to rotate the shaft so the bolts are easier to get to aswell.


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