pingi3

OK I posted a thread earlier and it was discussed heavily. It was how to go big. Well I have decided until later this Fall when I have more time to pick the build specs. I found another one that I like. The question is do I go body above the tires stance (close to it) or do what GCM 2 did and do more of a Baja look. Leaning towards the Baja look with coilovers.

But in the mean time I have a JK raised 2.5" with 33's (325/60/18.) I have a complex and can not drive cars I own unless I am happy with the way it looks. In matter of fact. When I picked up the JK, it went straight to the tire/wheel shop.

So I went back today and test fit a 355/65/18 (36.64") Nitto Terra Grapplers. It fits but need a little more height. Is it ok to add a 1.75" spacer to my current 2.5" lift?

I know it sucks cause I just wasted $1500 on 33's but don't want to throw away the lift kit with Fox shocks just to get another lift kit and then change it again later this Fall.

Too many cars, too little time.

pingi3

Oh and I am taking it to a shop to have the gussetts and sleeves along with re-gearing done to the axles for the heavy tires. And while I am on the subject of re-gearing, what is the best gear to get to run 37" and 38" tires? And can those gears handle 40"s??????

Thanks

wazooz2424

Adding the spacers is fine under certain situations. Are the shocks long enough? Are your sway bar links adjustable? 2dr or 4dr? Auto or 6 speed? Budget for front lower control arms and maybe a drag link flip?

wazooz2424

Also don't forget a 37" spare will require a rear bumper/ tire carrier. Of you have a d30 front, you'll want to stay with 5.13 gears. With an auto, you will be sluggish with 40s. If you have a d44, you can run 5.38s and 40s will be tolerable, but 5.38s are less stable.

nthinuf

2.5" spacer or coil lift?

Coils, go for it, as long as you have the adjustables to reset your caster and center the axles and longer brake lines and longer links and new driveshafts and...and...

But you don't want to stack big spacers!!!

wazooz2424

X2 on this. My replies are based on you having a coil lift, not BB. And I forgot brake lines, but those are cheap.

pingi3

It is coil lift and not spacers. It is a auto 4dr. I picked what ever spacers my dealer had (Daystars) in stock. After it is installed I will do an alignment after with the 37 Nitto's. I was told the Fox shocks are ok with the 1 3/4" spacers. But did not even think about the brake lines. I know the Pro Comp lift kit I got came with brackets to hold the brake lines down a bit. I did not ask the shop that installed the kit about the sway bars and such but all they said was when I wanted to install these pucks, they said it is all good but will need the alignment.

BKGM Jeepers

The lift is not a problem. However, have you considered trimming your fenders like they've done on this board? It's a cheap and will help with clearance. If you were close to Sac, CA. I'd sell you my old ones for $20! You can practice on them...

pingi3

Thanks for the offer BKGM.. I think I am gonna get either the Zenon's or Bushwackers and paint them Tan on the top and black on the bottom. Or Black all around. When they test fit the 37's with the 2.5" lift alone. The tires did not rub at all. Only the tires in the front hit the plastic stock debris guards which I will trim for now. Well when I say no rubbing is us rocking her back and forth. I am pretty sure under articulation, it will hit the fenders. I kind of like the stock fenders but pretty sure I will end up with the flats and a small bumper with a wench. looking at bumpers as we speak. Just want to make sure the bumpers and fenders will compliment the long arm lift later with bigger tires and larger wheels.

wazooz2424

You'll want a stubby front bumper for 40s. You'll need longer brake lines, the drop brackets won't be enough. Your jeep will drive like hell with a lift that high without adjustable front lower control arms at a minimum. You will also need to trim the rear pinch seam and maybe need rear arms to move the rear axle back. You will need a front drive shaft, too, since you have an auto, because the boot will tear on the skid plate. Look up the write up for chopping your factory flares. It's easy and cost effective vs $500 flat flares. The only alignment spec that us adjustable is toe. You'll want 1/8" toe in minimum. Your steering wheel will have to be recentered too. Driving with sway bar links that are too short can be dangerous.