that is the first time I have heard of someone actually moving the exhaust and not just cutting the bolt.

 

Yeah, I ended up cutting my bolt. It looked easier.

No, ever since I bought all five of my 32s I have been rotating them in a counter-clockwise fashion about every 5K to incorporate the spare and hopefully get more mileage. So this time my rear passenger went to my front passenger and so on.

 

Unless you cross the fronts side to side, you cannot eliminate a radial tire pull or push. I've seen them do both.

 

Why do you think this would be the problem all of a sudden? I had a RE BB lift on it for about 20k miles before the OME lift and it never did this. One of the guys at the alignment shop said it was because my caster. My arms are the same length and I have about 5.5 on driver and 5 on passenger. Should I shorten them by one or two more turns to get about 6-7 degrees and maybe this will even things out? I am just afraid my pinion angle is too steep then with my stock driveshaft.

 

Unless I missed it, this is the first time you've included any alignment specs. A half degree on a RWD platform vehicle plus the road crown could be your drift. Geez...it can't be that bad. Most vehicles are actually designed to be aligned so that they drift to the right in case th driver falls asleep or has a cardiac arrest or otherwise becomes incapacitated. To answer your question though, a radial tire can develop a pull at anytime. I was merely saying to cross the tires because you don't want to leave any stone unturned if you want to find out what it is.......right? At least that way if you do cross them and it still has the drift, you'll not have a question about the tires. It's your Jeep. If you want to keep runnin around in circles, then by all means, don't let me stop you.

 

Do you have the monotube shocks?

 

No, I have the twin tube ones.

Thanks for your advice RedneckJeep I'am just trying to learn as much as possible and the only way to do that is ask lots of questions. But your right I want to eliminate one variable at a time.

Anyone else have OME HD coils with no weight (bumpers) and feel like they feel every little bump in the road?

 

Caster decreases as you lift, not increases. As the axle is lowered as the Jeep is lifted, the entire axle housing rotates in a clockwise direction, as viewed from the passenger side. This rotation causes the upper ball joint to decrease it's amount of rearward lean and decreases caster. This is why everyone wants either shorter upper control arms or longer lowers, to rotate the axle back toward the rear and bring caster back into spec. Although I'm sure you could see a difference in wheelbase as you lift, it's actually very small.

 

That is your problem in my opinion without looking directly at your Jeep.

 

the best way to retain your caster and to lift your vehicle as high as you want is to bite the bullet, have the ends of your front axle tubes cut off (by a professional), adjust your pinion level to the angle required by the lift (and get the right kind of driveshaft...a double cardan joint at the t-case). After you take the measurements, have the same professional weld the ends of the axle tubes back in place. You can play with all the long arm/short arm/adjustable/non-adjustable things you want, but the ONLY way to make your Jeep handle as it was intended after you lift it is to have the front axle cut and re-welded. The rear diff can rotate in order to maintain correct pinion angle without such drastic measures, but you will need to get a different track bar to recenter it.

This is not opinion...it is a simple matter of geometry. Raising your pinion angle (which happens if you lift your Jeep even by two inches) CHANGES the caster angle (which affects your steering).

If you do not have the knuckles cut off and rewelded where they need to be, the best that you will be able to do is to get your Jeep "close" to a balance of ideal pinion angle and good handling. Some people opt to keep the pinion angle factory after a lift, which is great for handling, but even on a 2 inch lift or anything higher the factory pinion angle will adversely affect the life of your driveshaft, and it may vibrate. U-joints were made to operate at angles of around 3 degrees. A double cardan joint can take a much more aggressive angle, but they are designed to have the lower single u-joint (the one at the pinion flange on the diff) be close to zero.