boboborino

OK I need your input, and I know that there are a lot of threads on this , But I'd like a specific answer to my set up.I have a 2.5" coil lift with new shocks(pro-comp) and I added 3/4" daystar coil spacers front and back, I have an adjustable front track bar and I am running 35" tires. My ride is not tracking straight and is now Flighty and Darty(words that I have seen on project JK) and I know that my castor probably needs to be adjusted. This is where I am confused, do I need front adjustable UPPER control arms like I have read on project JK /project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-ups/basic-do-it-yourself-jeep-jk-wrangler-front-end-alignmentOr do I need front LOWER control arms like I have read on this forum. I am kinda tapped out for funds right now and would like to remedy this problem as cheaply and efficiently as possible(meaning I don't want to make my own extended arms)
thanks in advance for your

xxlrg

I think either would work. Lowers would be adjusted longer than stock and uppers would get adjusted shorter. I would definitely get lower

jlarso

Had the same issue, here is how I solved it.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...88#post2115388

Good luck

Jim

jkerr

The easiest way to adjust caster is by adding Lower Control Arms and increasing the length. 23" is a good starting point, which is about 1/8" longer than stock. 6 degrees seems to work well. 5 degrees is stock on stock tires.

There's a good writeup on Project-JK on how to do/check alignments. You may want to read through it if you haven't already.

http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...-end-alignment

HG07JKRubi

I'm running the same setup (specs in profile) and added Teraflex lower control arms to adjust caster. I installed them myself and set them at 23" even. I have to say the Jeep rides and handles great.

nthinuf

Cam Bolts - Cheap, small range of adjustability, tend to slip with offroad driving, have to cut a notch out of the brackets to install, need to weld it up if you swap to adjustables.

Drop Bracket - Caster is adjusted a fixed amount, which may not be the amount you need. No adjustability for any further height changes. Can't adjust pinion if/when you go to a new driveshaft.

Longer/Shorter Fixed arms - same drawbacks as brackets.

Adjustable arms - By far the most expensive, but also the best solution. As noted above, uppers and lowers do the same thing. Uppers are cheaper, and will be adjusted shorter to raise caster. Lowers are more expensive, but have a better range of adjustability. They are set longer to raise caster.

JK Rocker

Upper arms reduce caster by bringing the top of the axle in, lower arms reduce caster by pushing the bottom of the axle out. I favor the latter because it keeps my tire away from the pinch seam/body.

For me, adjustable lowers is the way to go. If you upgrade your lift later, just readjust the arms for the new lift. Fixed arms are just that, no adjustment or tuning.

Do not get cam bolts, they just cause problems later, and brackets usually reduce clearance.

A quick temporary fix is to lower your tire pressure, if it isn't low already. A 35 inch stiff tire tends to wiggle. Soften it up. I run mine at 35psi, some run less.

Dynatrac

Just remember, like I mentioned in the other thread, when you fix your steering, you're hurting your front drive shaft angle. This can lead to all sorts of bad things.

boboborino

Ya I seen you on the other thread, cheap fix($ amount) and not that I am not capable, it's just I got a lot of other sh#% on the go and I would rather pay more and get it delivered to my door
Thanks for your reply

boboborino

Ya I 've read through it (the link is in my original post) and it talks about upper control arms