Caster, Steering, and Front Drive Shaft
09-21-2012, 09:48 PM
#21
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It really comes down to an issue of three options, all with their own drawbacks. You can:
A) Keep the stock driveshaft, keep close to stock caster angles, have a pretty stable steering set-up, and trash your driveshaft boot over time just from the angle.
B) Replace the front driveshaft with an aftermarket one, run close to stock caster angles, have a stable steering set-up, and have vibrations from the mis-matched driveshaft joints that COULD cause catastrophic damage to your transfer case.
C) Replace the front driveshaft with an aftermarket one, run smaller caster angles, which will reduce driveshaft vibrations, but inversely increase the amount of "flightyness" feel in the steering.
If you are going to keep the stock front axle, it is going to be a give and take between flightyness and vibrations, until you find a caster angle that you are happy with. Some people just live with flighty handling, others dial in stock caster and just remove the front driveshaft for daily driving, and the extremely anal people actually cut the C's off the axle and turn them for a better angle.
Of course, the easiest--and more expensive--option is to purchase a ProRock 44 Unlimited housing, which will have more caster already fabricated in, to combat this issue from the start.
Hope this helps, or at least points you in the right direction!
-Adam
A) Keep the stock driveshaft, keep close to stock caster angles, have a pretty stable steering set-up, and trash your driveshaft boot over time just from the angle.
B) Replace the front driveshaft with an aftermarket one, run close to stock caster angles, have a stable steering set-up, and have vibrations from the mis-matched driveshaft joints that COULD cause catastrophic damage to your transfer case.
C) Replace the front driveshaft with an aftermarket one, run smaller caster angles, which will reduce driveshaft vibrations, but inversely increase the amount of "flightyness" feel in the steering.
If you are going to keep the stock front axle, it is going to be a give and take between flightyness and vibrations, until you find a caster angle that you are happy with. Some people just live with flighty handling, others dial in stock caster and just remove the front driveshaft for daily driving, and the extremely anal people actually cut the C's off the axle and turn them for a better angle.
Of course, the easiest--and more expensive--option is to purchase a ProRock 44 Unlimited housing, which will have more caster already fabricated in, to combat this issue from the start.
Hope this helps, or at least points you in the right direction!
-Adam
09-22-2012, 05:39 AM
#22
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Good response... but yeah the front drive shaft is already trash ... I took it out not too long ago and the boot was shredded... but I guess I'm gonna roll with out one for awhile and try to dial in the steering and whenever my 4 door soft top sells, probably order a coast DS...
09-22-2012, 05:47 AM
#23
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Originally Posted by isolated1523
It really comes down to an issue of three options, all with their own drawbacks. You can:
A) Keep the stock driveshaft, keep close to stock caster angles, have a pretty stable steering set-up, and trash your driveshaft boot over time just from the angle.
B) Replace the front driveshaft with an aftermarket one, run close to stock caster angles, have a stable steering set-up, and have vibrations from the mis-matched driveshaft joints that COULD cause catastrophic damage to your transfer case.
C) Replace the front driveshaft with an aftermarket one, run smaller caster angles, which will reduce driveshaft vibrations, but inversely increase the amount of "flightyness" feel in the steering.
If you are going to keep the stock front axle, it is going to be a give and take between flightyness and vibrations, until you find a caster angle that you are happy with. Some people just live with flighty handling, others dial in stock caster and just remove the front driveshaft for daily driving, and the extremely anal people actually cut the C's off the axle and turn them for a better angle.
Of course, the easiest--and more expensive--option is to purchase a ProRock 44 Unlimited housing, which will have more caster already fabricated in, to combat this issue from the start.
Hope this helps, or at least points you in the right direction!
-Adam
A) Keep the stock driveshaft, keep close to stock caster angles, have a pretty stable steering set-up, and trash your driveshaft boot over time just from the angle.
B) Replace the front driveshaft with an aftermarket one, run close to stock caster angles, have a stable steering set-up, and have vibrations from the mis-matched driveshaft joints that COULD cause catastrophic damage to your transfer case.
C) Replace the front driveshaft with an aftermarket one, run smaller caster angles, which will reduce driveshaft vibrations, but inversely increase the amount of "flightyness" feel in the steering.
If you are going to keep the stock front axle, it is going to be a give and take between flightyness and vibrations, until you find a caster angle that you are happy with. Some people just live with flighty handling, others dial in stock caster and just remove the front driveshaft for daily driving, and the extremely anal people actually cut the C's off the axle and turn them for a better angle.
Of course, the easiest--and more expensive--option is to purchase a ProRock 44 Unlimited housing, which will have more caster already fabricated in, to combat this issue from the start.
Hope this helps, or at least points you in the right direction!
-Adam
09-22-2012, 12:17 PM
#25
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Its definitely not a flip kit.. how hard are those to put on... so am I looking at about $1k for flip kit and front DS.. also I saw somewhere I have to have a stock pit an arm to have a flip kit.. and people say the skyjacker lift comes with a pitman arm.
09-22-2012, 12:55 PM
#26
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I'd say more along the lines of $750ish. I just recently put an evo flip kit on, install was relatively easy. The most difficult part will be drilling your passenger side knuckle out for the new collet and drag link. There is also a good chance depending on the lift, that you have a drop pitman arm installed as well. The flip kit negates the need for that.
09-22-2012, 01:55 PM
#28
JK Enthusiast
Originally Posted by Nkrimmel2012
So would I have to take the pitman arm off and get a stock one...
The EVO drag link flip kit is only 300 with free shipping from northridge4x4 and does not require welding.
A aftermarket front driveshaft ( tom woods, coast, etc) should not be more than 500.
Call david at northridge and he will get you the best deals.
09-22-2012, 02:02 PM
#29
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Sweet thanks... So the flip kit is strictly bolt on except drilling the 7/8" hole I. The passenger knuckle... will my fox racing SS just bolt to the new bracket and everything