You probably get free cable too! ( I/m only guessing based on your name.)

 

I cannot confirm nor deny that accusation sir.

 

I think you answered my question!

 

Rubimon, you are just doing the front upper and lower control arms arent you? You are not putting rears in correct? I am having some of the same issues, and was thinking of putting just front upper and lower control arms in. There would not be as much benefit putting rears in correct? Also gonna put some longer swaybar links in also. Rustys 3.25 coil lift didnt come with any of those, but otherwise it rides pretty good. Also do you have any preference on what brand of control arms, or what looks best to you? thanks

Oh also does anyone know where to get some bumpstops, most are in kits.

 

I was going to just do the front but I decided to get the rear ones also. I dont expect that to help with the handling as much as the front. I just thought I would do it all at once.

I am using Full Traction which apears to be a great product. A few of the ultimate kits are starting to trickle out the door so I am patiently waiting for my arms soon. I realize, like everyone, they are at the mercy of their suppliers too.

I can sell you the front sway bar links out of my kit if you like. They have quick disconnects on them and I didn't need that since I have a Rubi. You can see a picture of them here. http://project-jk.com/images/writeup...IN-ECONOMY.jpg Not sure how much to ask for them though.


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Rubimon, I recomend very Highly that you keep and install your disconnects. The reason for this is accually quite simple. I know you have a Rubicon as will I, but the electronic disconnects do not allow for the full articulation capabablities of your JK. Also if something were to happen God Forbid, that the electronic disconnects quit or dont work you might want to disconnect your sway bar. Papabear

 

Yeh, your are right, thanks for the advice.

Okay, sorry, the disconnects are not for sale.

 

You are very welcome

 

What superior advice you get on this forum,....a backup Disco system, brillant & maybe needed at some time(insurance plan at it'ds best)

 

With only 2 inches I find it very hard to believe that you are experiencing caster issues. I'd say you are more likey experiencing the result of moving the control arms out of parallel with the frame, which is the way your jeep came from the factory. From the factory the control arms moved up and aft as the front suspension cycled on compression. With the addition of a lift the control arms are now pointed downward (located lower in the arc of travel) now they have to move forward as they travel up in the arc on compression and the ride will be completely different than before. With only two inches a toe adjustment should be the only thing you need. If the alignment shop you are using will not explain in detail and help you understand the nuances of suspension geometry, then find another shop.
While were're at it. I'd like someone to explain to me how the caster will change in the first place. The length on the upper and lower arms is fixed as the the front end moves up and down in a vertical plane there should be no rotation of the axle. If one were to draw a line from a given point on the frame between the front and rear wheels and extend the line perpendicular to the ground the only movement that should take place is a change in distance from the center of the axles to that point as the axle cycles from full extension to full compression (assuming both left and right sides of the axle are compressed equally.) Since equal compression doesn't happen and the left and right sides move differently realative to one another there is one more movement that occurs. The distance between out imaginary line and the centerline of the axle will differ between the left and right sides of the vehicle if different rates of compression are occrring between the left and right sides of the axle. So the are three movements that take place. 1. UP AND DOWN IN THE ARC, 2. FORWARD AND AFT IN THE ARC, 3. A PIVOT FROM LEFT AND RIGHT REALATIVE TO THE CENTER OF THE AXLE BETWEEN THE HUBS.
Only during extreme driving loading can caster change and that is limited to how much the bushings will allow the axle to rotate on it left/ right centerline. Someone explain how caster changes.