Just finished adjusting the TF adjustable front track bar and re-centered my steering wheel. It's TEST DRIVE time!!! If you don't hear back from me, then you know something went majorly wrong.

Last thing to do, re-attach my center skid plate.

 

Test drive went good. It rides much smoother than stock, I can hardly feel the bumps and it drives straight down the road. Based on this, I think I can hold off on bringing it into the shop for an alignment and look into getting the tie rod replacement and give that a shot at installing it myself, then go into the shop for allignment. Although, I'm about sick of working on my Jeep right about now.

 

Agree on the torque comment but some of us only install one lift not "many" where we learn from each attempt. I had to loosen mine as well op so don't feel bad.

 

Unless you jacked with the tie rod, the alignment is the same now as it was before.

I wouldn't pay someone $130 to put it on a rack and not do anything.

Your caster and camber are what they are, caster is non adjustable without geometry correction brackets, adjustable arms or cam bolts.

Camber is welded solid when the axle is assembled.

Toe is the tie rod, that I suspect you never touched. All you would need to do is carry a 15mm socket and ratchet and take a ride, if the steering wheel is off center, pull over and loosen the 2 15mm nuts on the drag link adjusting sleeve and rotate it one way or the other and re-tighten. Test drive again and repeat until you get it back to centered while going down a flat/level road with minimal crown. That's it.

 

I installed adjustable flex front lower control arms. The kit came with cam bolts but I didn't wan't to use those. Based on previous reports of getting about 3in of lift in the front, I used a 3in increase to dial in my control arm length. Stock control arm length= 22 5/8", I set the adjustable LCA's to 22 13/16". So I'm kind of curious to see where my caster is with the new control arms and the lift, that was one of the reasons I had the alignment check before the install. So I do have some caster adjustment capability with the adjustable LCA's. I didn't know there was no camber adjustment capability. Thanks!!

My LCA length calculator...LOL!!!

 

There is no camber adjustability which is why it should be stressed that C gussets *should* be welded in while you know the alignment is good so there isn't the chance to goober it.

That being said- you and I have similar vehicles that have been driven quite a bit while due diligence was done on all components. Even at 115k miles my C's were fine and that's on terrible roads with 2" of backspacing on 10" wide wheels. If my C's were straight then yours and everyone else's should be fine until you make the jump to larger tires and new ball joints.

It'll probably be a couple weeks before you see that lift start to settle to where it should ride. Stock coils settle in a few days but an actual lift will take a few more miles to set it.

 

I'm expecting some some settlement, here's my initial before/after measurements. I took measurements from ground to bottom of fender on each wheel and then from ground to bottom of frame at the side center seam.

Passenger side
Front
Before= 35 3/8"
After= 38 1/2"
increase= 3 1/8"

Center Seam
Before= 12 3/4"
After= 15 1/2"
Increase= 2 3/4"

Rear
Before= 35 3/8"
After= 37 3/4"
Increase= 2 5/8"

Driver Side
Front
Before= 35 3/8"
After= 38 3/4"
Increase= 3 3/8"

Center Seam
Before= 13 1/8"
After= 16"
Increase= 2 7/8"

Rear
Before= 35 3/8"
After= 37 3/4"
Increase= 2 3/8"