Niteshooter

Think everyone else covered this pretty well. I'm only a couple of inches taller than you. My 2011 JK has the Mopar 2" lift with 315/70 17 tires which are about 34 and a bit inches tall. I find getting in a bit of a challenge though I just put one foot on the side step, grab the steering wheel and haul myself in. If you have knee or back problems then this might be a bigger problem.

The Jeep in the photo looks like it has stock tires with a lift. As others have said, look at the shocks as they might give you a clue as to what lift kit was installed. The factory Mopar kit has Mopar branded Fox shocks. I personally find this setup a bit soft/floaty but it certainly isn't punishing like the suspension I had on my CJ5.

This is what the sticker would look like.




I also have a 2013 JKU with no lift but replaced the shocks with Bilsteins, the longer wheelbase is not as 'choppy' as the JK. Comparison shot below.




In terms of differences, 07-10 had the 3.8L V6 that gets a bad rap. I do find with the bigger tires and gearing that it runs out of steam at highway speeds in 6th gear. But then I just downshift to 5th but it still runs into some problems with long inclines. In 2011 Jeep upgraded the interior to the one found in the 2012-2018's but kept the 3.8L engine.

In 2012 Jeep upgraded the engine to the 3.6L V6 which has better power, I find my JKU pulls 6th fine in stock form on the highway so if you do a lot of highway driving that might be a consideration. Granted the JKU also has much more street oriented tread.

In terms of undoing a lift, what you might save price wise if this Jeep is cheaper than comparable stock Jeeps you might loose in terms of replacing parts to get back to a stock ride height along with any labour costs. So personally if I was looking at a lifted Jeep I would be considering keeping it that way. Granted you might be able to find someone who's lifted their stock JKU and get their parts or maybe even swap parts... again though as others have pointed out it can be a crap shoot in terms of how well the lift was done. Personally I might be a bit less stressed if it was the factory lift but there are also great aftermarket kits out there as well.

The only other thing that would bug me, stock tires on a lifted Jeep just don't look right proportionally.... I ran into this when I lifted my JK, bought it used and found that I needed to replace a couple of shocks and a bad spring. So I started to price out the factory parts, then happened to price out the Mopar kit and found it worked out to be the same cost so what the heck I went for it. And then I looked at it with the stock wheels and tires and thought to myself, nope, looks weird. So that led to replacing the wheels and tires.....

Niteshooter

Ok I cheated, did some detective work and found the listing for this Jeep. The prices of used Jeeps where you are are high like up here.

The Jeep you are looking at is in good shape, body looks good and I like the colour. I looked at the shot of the front wheel well and the chassis and suspension looks pretty rust free. But can't tell anything from the shock. The interior also looks nice and clean and the drivers seat looks good, eg no rips. It has aftermarket LED headlights, so make sure high and low beams work. Can't remember if this has DRL but if it is supposed to. I think that front bumper has had the corners shortened, no big deal just notice this along with the dirt. It also has grill inserts so look carefully behind them to see if everything looks ok.

The side steps are aftermarket as is the chrome mirror mounts. They look cool. The black plastic trim could use some TLC to get the black back.

At that mileage I might keep in mind that it might need a clutch, and if you are in that far do the rear main oil seal as well. Both of my Wranglers I bought used high mileage and I budgeted for new clutches and rear main seals for both. But because of the milage I got a great deal on the 2013.

Also notice that it has an aftermarket dual tip exhaust so that might give you a bump in horsepower but also a bump up in exhaust sound. Granted that might not make a big difference once you get rolling with the soft top. Since the muffler has been replaced and the Jeep was lifted I would look at the engine. My guess is that it could have had the air intake replaced with an aftermarket free flowing system or at the very least it might have a K&N drop in filter so before you toss a stock filter check and see if you have a K&N in there. There might be other engine mods hiding in there as well such as headers.

Really like that colour and body wise it looks like it is in great shape, would look closely at the chassis though.

Good luck.

nthinuf

in 2010, non-rubicons were sold with either 3.21 or 3.73. No telling which you had. But if you still have the VIN you could look it up.

The diff is the big center section of the axles, where the driveshafts connect. There is a big set of ring & pinion gears in them, just a single ratio rather than 6 gears in the 3.8 manual transmission. Changing the axle ratio can effectively change the overall ratio of all the gears in the transmission, which becomes more important with larger tires, or loading up with gear, or bolting bumpers and winches on, or when a 1000+ pounds of extended family decides they want a ride.

The folks at the vehicle factories tend to like lower numeric axle gearing (3.21) in an attempt to be able to show better mpgs on the window stickers, even though a lot of fabrication goes into those numbers. These 3.8's can feel kinda gutless, and that ratio just makes an already under-powered vehicle that little bit worse. Especially the automatics. So, many of us prefer higher numeric axle gearing (stock, that would be 3.73, or 4.10 in some rubicons) as it gives more power (higher rpm = more HP/TQ, right?) and more flexibility. We are not talking a huge difference. For tires that measure out to 30", the charts posted above show:
3.21's would be about 2115 rpm @70 mph
3.73 would be about 2458 rpm @ 70 mph
Certainly not screaming high rpms, just a bit more power and a bit less downshifting. For an automatic, that can easily be seen in the difference between how often the transmission drops in and out of OD while driving on the freeway, especially with headwinds or small hills. 3.73 would hold speed better, and would not drop out of OD nearly as much, which would keep the rpm's lower overall, and should even provide better mpgs in this case. (yeah, I know you are talking 6-spd, but it's been close to 30 years since I drove one so deal with my auto analogy... ) Which ratio might be better just depends on where you live, how you drive, how you load, whatever else.

Bottom line is that it is completely opinion based. 3.21 may be perfectly fine for your use. And if you drove one with 3.73, you might not even notice a seat-of-the-pants difference. But it's there, and you might appreciate that difference at some future time when you find that you don't have to spend $1500 to regear the axles...