Camber & Pinion Angle
11-02-2016, 05:40 AM
#1
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Greetings, Would anyone have an opinion or idea how much degree caster can be obtained per 1/8" of upper control arm length adjustment? If it matters, I do have AEV drop brackets installed, a dynatrac Prorock 44 unlimited and a double cardan shaft in the front What I am trying to do is dial in the pinion angle (zero degree variation with pinion/shaft) without destroying the camber. I have some wiggle room as The camber is currently 5.3 deg and pinion angle is slightly low... without having to buy adjustable control arms just planning to cut and weld factory arms to create the desired length
Last edited by Cats&Jeeps; 11-02-2016 at 05:33 PM.
11-02-2016, 05:50 AM
#2
JK Junkie
It is caster, not camber. You front axle should already have an increased separation built in. Your caster is pretty much perfect. I wouldn't mess with it. The pinion side joint is not going to be straight on and that is fine. Its position changes during up and down travel. You're not going to have driveshaft issues unless you have some significant amount of lift like 5"-6".
Also, the wall is way too thin on factory arms to cut and weld. I wouldn't take the risk.
Also, the wall is way too thin on factory arms to cut and weld. I wouldn't take the risk.
11-02-2016, 06:27 AM
#3
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I'm in the same situation. My caster is 7.8 with AEV drop brackets and the Unlimited axle. I am about to install RK adjustable control arms to get caster down to a reasonable level. Shooting for about where you are ...5.0 - 5.5
What lift do you have and what hole in the upper control arms is it set to.
What lift do you have and what hole in the upper control arms is it set to.
11-02-2016, 06:44 AM
#4
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I would swap out those brackets for a set of adjustable lowers. Evo mfg makes really nice ones you can adjust while installed. It will allow you to precisely dial in your caster.
11-02-2016, 07:08 AM
#5
JK Jedi
Not judging here, but I'd think that if you're willing to drop some coin on a PR44......a decent set of control arms rather than drop brackets and factory arms would be worthwhile. I presume you didn't spend the money on that axle to drive on the pavement full time. As suggested, some front lower arms at the very least.
Last edited by resharp001; 11-02-2016 at 07:31 AM.
11-02-2016, 07:21 AM
#6
JK Freak
Greetings,
Would anyone have an opinion or idea how much degree camber can be obtained per 1/8" of upper control arm length adjustment? If it matters, I do have AEV drop brackets installed, a dynatrac Prorock 44 unlimited and a double cardan shaft in the front
What I am trying to do is dial in the pinion angle (zero degree variation with pinion/shaft) without destroying the camber. I have some wiggle room as The camber is currently 5.3 deg and pinion angle is slightly low... without having to buy adjustable control arms just planning to cut and weld factory arms to create the desired legth
Would anyone have an opinion or idea how much degree camber can be obtained per 1/8" of upper control arm length adjustment? If it matters, I do have AEV drop brackets installed, a dynatrac Prorock 44 unlimited and a double cardan shaft in the front
What I am trying to do is dial in the pinion angle (zero degree variation with pinion/shaft) without destroying the camber. I have some wiggle room as The camber is currently 5.3 deg and pinion angle is slightly low... without having to buy adjustable control arms just planning to cut and weld factory arms to create the desired legth
Tell me, what is the face of the driveshaft flange measuring in degrees while the weight of the vehicle is on the axles? Remove the driveshaft from the pinion flange and with the weight on the axles, put your angle gage there on the machined face of the flange. Tell me what your seeing.
The PR44U has 10 degrees of separation built in between the pinion and the caster, so if your seeing 2 degrees here, your at 8 degrees caster. If your at 8 degrees here, your at 2 degrees caster. Get it?
11-02-2016, 05:44 PM
#7
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Not judging here, but I'd think that if you're willing to drop some coin on a PR44......a decent set of control arms rather than drop brackets and factory arms would be worthwhile. I presume you didn't spend the money on that axle to drive on the pavement full time. As suggested, some front lower arms at the very least.
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11-02-2016, 06:06 PM
#8
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Forget the driveshaft angle. With a RK 3.5 coil and PR44U with stock arms you should be at 5° =/- 0.5° on caster, and the driveshaft yoke should also be at 5° upward angle with no geometry brackets. Adding the geometry brackets to correct caster for a lift on an axle with added caster to correct for a lift is double stacking. I don't see any way that you still end up at the same 5° with your double stacked caster correction, you should be more like 8 or 10 degrees! Tell me, what is the face of the driveshaft flange measuring in degrees while the weight of the vehicle is on the axles? Remove the driveshaft from the pinion flange and with the weight on the axles, put your angle gage there on the machined face of the flange. Tell me what your seeing. The PR44U has 10 degrees of separation built in between the pinion and the caster, so if your seeing 2 degrees here, your at 8 degrees caster. If your at 8 degrees here, your at 2 degrees caster. Get it?
Understand your opinion on double stacking, wanted the lower control arm reposition to improve ride quality, brackets served their purpose. Do you have an idea how much caster can be gained or lost on 1/8 of upper control arm length?
11-02-2016, 06:11 PM
#9
JK Jedi
No worries, went that route with teraflex adjustable uppers and lowers to start, have had the PR for about 7 yrs. Did not like the handling or ride quality. So i got a free set of the AEV drops, picked up a new set of 2015 factory control arms sold the teras for just shy of what I paid, love the handling. Thanks for the thoughts
11-02-2016, 06:15 PM
#10
JK Jedi
If I wasn't going wheelin' this weekend I would actually be willing to go change mine by 1/8" just to measure and see for the sake of seeing how successful you were at modifying a factory arm! If you haven't figured it out by next weekend, I might still be willing to do that.