Rabt68

That loud thumping noise you hear is me banging my head on my desk. I'm experiencing information overload at this point. After reading , and re-reading and even more re-reading of forums and other information sites, I believe I have finally decided on a lift kit for my 2011 JK 2 door sport (3.73 gearing).
So here is some back ground/info that will help all of you answer my questions. This is my daily drive (roughly 70 mile round trip to work) so I want to make sure that I maintain a quality "on road" driving experience. This is my first jeep that I will be modding and I have never had a chance to do any off roading before. When I do get to off road it will be in Ohio and surrounding states that I will do most of my off roading (so any input from people around Ohio and surrounding states on what I should expect and prepare for would be greatly appreciated).
To maintain the happy home (keep the wifey from killing me), I want to do most of my mods in stages to keep from breaking the bank. I want to get my lift first and then later I will change from my stock 17's (32.5") to 35" (which will also mean re-gearing from all I have read). Also from what I have read, since I have the dana 30 front end, I really should not consider going to 37's so that means that I should probably just consider 2 - 3 inch lifts.
I am looking at the Rock Krawler 2.5 Max Travel lift kit (still debating on the RRD versus the Bilstein shocks). So taking all the info list above in minds, here are my questions...

1) My main concern is that everything I am reading, this lift will actually come closer to 3.5" in lift. Will I need to get new drive shafts with this lift?
2) If I DO need to get new drive shafts, should I then consider getting the Rock Krawler 3.5 Mid Arm Flex System? I know it's over kill but it's only about $50.00 more and then I would have the ability to go to 37" tires if I decide to change out my dana 30 front end in the future?
3) no matter which kit I go with, they only come with the lower front adjustable control arm. Should I pay a little extra (about $230.00) and get the upper adjustable control arm as well?
4) I figure that I will need to get some kind of spacer to allow my stock wheels to work with these kits. Any suggestions on what I should look at?
5) is there any additional parts/pieces that you can think of that I would need to get to be able to add one of these lift kits?
6) the unknown.... What questions haven't I even thought of that needs answering as well

I know this all is a bit long winded but I really want to try and do this right so I want to make sure that I have thought of all the possibilities (of course I'm not stupid enough to think that I actually will....lol)

tslewisz

I have the 2.5" Max PRO system sitting in my garage waiting for Saturday install. I'll try to answer, but it won't be from experience, but from the research I've done.

1. You might need driveshafts eventually from the better flex. I think they'll last a while, anyway.
2. I want to stay as low as I can. I see people running 37's with the 2.5" kit and flat fenders. If you want to go higher down the road, it's as easy as a set of springs later, but if you can fit 37's, do you want to go higher?
3. Since we're getting lowers, there's no reason to get the uppers, too, at this stage. Later, if we want to alter the position of the front axle for some reason (along with a new DS), uppers would be needed.
4. Ensure your spacers are hub centric. I used Spidertrax for a while.
5. Nope, they're pretty danged complete.
6. ??

As to your question about the shocks, RRD vs Bilstein, I asked the forum Rock Krawler rep. He said Bilstein's actually flex better than RRD's at this lift height so that's what I went with.

Rabt68

thanks for the quick replay. I don't intend on going up to 37" but I think it's great that this product is so well engineered that it's possible. I intend on staying with 35" unless some compelling reasons arise. I will definitely check into the spidertrax. Be sure to keep us posted on how the install the driving experience goes.

jrinden

Hey sup
I have had the 2.5 max travel on for about 5mo. Now and it did net 3.75 in front and 3 in back. Dont worry it will come down some .5or so. I have billstiens 5100's i believe front are for 4-6 in. Lift and rears are for 3 in. Of lift. This thing rides amazing better than from factory. No need for driveshafts b/c i haven't flexed it with drivers side tire hanging by the shock yet. Im on 33s stock rims spidertrax 1.5 in. Spacers. There is plenty of drop room for your axles. Trust me as i was worried too. The only thing i noticed was a little vibration in the rear driveshaft. Not by any meens bad. Its about like having mud tires on the jeep that rumble and it only does that from 45-55 mph when im barely on the gas. But expect that from any driveshaft thats factory. So pull the plug get the lift. Id go with 5100's. Took me 3 hrs. But i had the front axle dropped to garage floor waiting for the six boxes to come.

Joisey

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1.)I have the 3.5 on my 2 door and it settled at about 4 with winch and bumpers, I have the stock driveshafts. With the 2.5 I would not worry about driveshafts unless you have an auto, and even then not if your not going offroading agressivly. like Raucsh.
2.)You can get the 3.5 I love it, however it is overkill for 35's and you will want 37's becsaue of all the space.
3.)There is no need to get the upper control arms, thats why there not included.
4.)Yes, you will need spacers to run this lift.
5.)The RK steering kit is a nice addition to any lift.
6.)negative, its all on the boards

Mark

the RK MT system is a Great kit. I got mine with Bilsteins

1)ALL lift kits have springs that measure taller than what they say- this is due to some settling over time.
2)you WONT need to get a new driveshaft. Yes its only a couple bucks more, but then add on the diff between tire sizes, gear, axle shafts, ball joints...37 is a whole new ballgame
3)no. these arent needed, especially if youre only doing 35's
4)I ran 315/70/17 on stock wheels with no spacer for over a year. Teh front wheels would rub the sway bar, but only at full lock. Adjust the turn stop and this is solved-also you could just not turn as hard.
5 & 6) TOOLS!!!!!! Just some things I ended up buying over the course of installing and maintaining: Get a case, yes CASE of WD40. Squirt every joint down, that you plan on disconnecting, the day before. Do this twice at two points during the day, it will save your knuckles. Penetrating oil needs time to, duh, penetrate. Another is a good torque wrench. Nothing with plastic parts!! Expect to spend 30-50$ You will use this tool more than you know. LOCTITE RED -done. Mechanics gloves. A creeper to get under the Jeep. And finally-- make sure you have all the correct socket sizes you need.

One bad thing about Rock Krawler is that their instructions suck. The send out this book for their most advanced kit and like a "create your own story" book, you have to jump from page to page depending on your kit. Feel free to hit me up with any questions you might have or get while doing it.

Rabt68

Thanks everyone for the great advice. It was a toss up between RK lifts and the TF 3". Both looks great but I love that the RK has a life time warranty. I am still considering the new DS mainly because this is my DD and I want to try and avoid any possible problems (there is 3 types of luck... in decending order there is good, bad and mine).

jrinden

My most favorite thing is "fixing the jeep" when my wife is mad. Just get on the creeper and look up. She still hasnt figured that out yet.

spedly

I wheel with a couple guys that have the 2.5 max travel and bilsteins. I have witnessed 1 front and 1 rear driveshaft failure wheeling in PA. Both rigs had been wheeling a bunch of times before anything happened and both were fine on the street.

Swimfam_tse

i wanted do ask i have 3.5 mid arm flex will i be able to put 2.5 coils springs?