I have searched the threads for bump steer. Dlippes draglinks and other changes related to the geometry of the steering.

I have a jeep wrangler jk 2 door. 5.5" skyjacker lift and currently running 315 size tires. That said we broke the track bar mount and had to have it replaced. After our mechanic sis the alignment we got a bad case of bump steer. I have been reading alot on this forum and it seems that there is no one method of fix

I am posting a few pictures of that my set up now as the bracket looks like a relocation bracket and my track bar seems to be higher than the drag link


Any thought from all of you experienced jeepers would be helpful so I am seeking guidance

Edj0527
Palm Bay, Florida

 

Yep, sounds like you're on the right track. A flip/hi steer involves moving one end of both the trackbar and the draglink. If you raised the axle end of the trackbar, you need to also flip the draglink up. (and maybe add some bumpstop?)

Take another pic for us, from the front and slightly further back. You want to be able to see both ends of the trackbar and draglink in the same shot. Then open that pic in Paint or whatever, and draw straight lines between the mounting holes of both bars. We are looking to see just how parallel they are.

This thread has an example:
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...eering-351435/

 

I'm sure that doesn't feel great...bumpsteer on a short wheelbase with 5.5" of lift. Yup, your axle-side TB is now raised, and assuming you don't have a drop pitman arm which we don't see in the pics (pretty certain that tiny bit we see is factory), your DL is not sitting ~parallel with the TB. that would do it. If you raise your TB mount 3", you need to either flip that DL to top of the knuckle (requiring at least a new end on that side of the turnbuckle), or lower the frame side via drop pitman arm (not as popular).

Wider angle pics like nthinuf requested please.

 

Does have the drop pitman arm already. That was the last fix before the tracbar bracket breaking

 

Both together

 

1. A drop pitman was installed. (Using the stock trackbar brackets, correct? And no bumpsteer at this point ???)
2. Then the 'stock' trackbar bracket on the axle broke.
3. Installed a raised trackbar bracket.
4. And now the bumpsteer starts? (with both drop pitman and raised trackbar bracket)

Doesn't make sense to me. I'd still like to see an actual wide-angle pic since we are still just guessing at the angles in the shots you posted. (open the thread that was linked - look at the pics with the lines drawn in)

Looks like a Rubicon Express raised bracket? (from a quick search, that's the only one I saw that uses those cams.) From looking at their site, they do not use drop pitmans, instead opting to flip the axle end of the draglink up. So at a guess, and just a guess, there is a difference in where that bracket moves the axle end of the trackbar in relation to where a bracket used with a drop pitman would move it? (don't know the answer to that, just throwing out a thought...) To confirm, it was the 'stock' trackbar bracket that broke, not an aftermarket bracket that came with the drop pitman?


This is what the angles look like to me currently. Again, hard to tell when looking at pieces of two different pics.



Which means that the lines would be more parallel to each other without the raised trackbar bracket? (or with the stock pitman instead of the drop?)

 

I agree, this doesn't make much sense from what we commonly see.

I am not positive, but I would wager money that raised brackets are all the same height as everyone is working with the same geometry. Now, what we're not considering here is that this bracket was welded on. Looking at that bracket it seems the factory would have been completely cut off (if it wasn't sheered off already) and this new one welded on. The issue with that is it does open the door that you can get it placed just a little wonky when you weld the new one. MAYBE the bracket is just a bit off, thereby causing the relationship between the two components out of spec.

Only other thing I can think of is that maybe there's just a bad joint in there (DL or TR) that is causing bumpsteer. Did the TB bracket break while you were driving? I've had this happen with my rear bracket it's definitely a moment. Just grasping at straws here, but maybe DL joint got damaged in that process if so. My experience with bad DL joints is bumpsteer.

FInally, the one thing we haven't asked as is what caster OP is running. At that height, any kind of low caster is going to accentuate things. I'd have to think 5.5" on a short wheel base has to have full arms, but all info is useful. Out of all the pics, I can only really see a small bit of the frame side lower CA and can't tell much.

 

How many times can I edit one post? Good golly. TB bracket looks to be G2 -

https://www.quadratec.com/products/52465_6620.htm

 

I would put the factory pitman arm back on and flip the drag link at the knuckle. I would also find some 3.5"-4" coils and some caster correction with adjustable control arms or some drop brackets. Get rid of the dual stabilizers up front, check the back axle to make sure you have a raised trackball bracket on the axle and not a drop bracket on the frame. That cheap incomplete 5.5" kit is the problem. From the looks of things I would bet you have some wear and tear issues that could be addressed in the unit bearings, tie rod ends, and ball joints. Take some time and wash it good and get some good rust preventive paint on that thing.

 

To me. The 2 yellow lines are not enough aligned. Have you consider raising your drag link with a flip? This should realigned the 2 . No ?