Vinson Clark

I'm in the process to getting all my parts together for my jeep. It's a 2011 2dr sport 6 speed. I've been researching my ass off for a while and need everyone's honest opion on this so A LOT of you guys vote and give me some feed back why you would go down that road. Ok so hear it goes I could beef up my d30 sleeves,gussets,chromoly shafts and maybe even throw in a Aussie locker. I'm planning on doing chromoly shafts and a locker in the rear 44 as well. Would the d30 handle 37s this way or should I stick with 35s with the same upgrades? I've heard the d30 can take it if your light on the skinny pedal which I am. And I've heard it can't. I don't do any rock crawling either. I could upgrade my f/r axcels right now between $2000-2700 range give or take a few. A built prorock 44 is gonna be around $5000 with gears locker and everything. And I would still have to do shafts locker and gears in the rear. Also would it be better to run 4.88 or 5.13 gears with the d30 I've heard the 5.13s are really thin that's why I ask. If I go 37s I'm prolly gonna run the mtrk if I do 35s I'm thinking of running toyos mt. So guys vote on the poll and give me some feedback.

jesse0376

if you are easy on the gas you can get away with a dana 30. I have a buddy that runs 38s on his yj with the dana 30 stock shafts and hasnt had any problems but the key is stay off the throttle when it starts to hop. I know guys will say there is no way but the way i see it is try it for yourself everyone drives differently. I would wait on the shafts and run it until you break the stock ones but thats just me. For the gears the higher the gears the stronger they will be so just depends on how you want the jeep to perform power wise.

With all that said i just sold a guy my yj that had a 9" and HP dana 44 with 38.5x15 boggers and the first time he took it out he broke a front shaft. Like i said its all on how you drive and where you take your jeep.

Vinson Clark

I'm not hard at all on my jeep its never seen over 3000rpms for the time I've had it which hasn't been very long. And there are no hard core trails where I'm at which kinda sucks but thanks for the advice man

nthinuf

I vote for no more upgrades to the 30, running 37's now, and saving for the PR.



And a note on the comment concerning the yj on 38's. You should also factor in the differences between a yj 30 and a jk 30. The jk axles are about 6" wider, have taller C's, are under a vehicle that is much heavier, and are being produced with some very suspect metallurgy. (ex. You won't find many YJ housings shattering. But you will find JK housings that are... )

Vinson Clark

Have you seen a jk d30 shatter from running 37s? I no it can be broke but Im not talking about abusing it. I would do some highway driving hear and there also

mkjeep

Mine hasn't shattered........yet

Vinson Clark

How long have you been running your 37s? Is your d30 open or locked?

Bosox5

I just made the decision to go with 35s again, wanted 37s but I really don't like increasing my chances of busting my d30. Like said, all depends what kind of wheeling you do. If you can afford to replace your d30 when it breaks, go 37s.

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azjeepN

I have BFG 37s on my D30 w/ no upgrades, only for a month now. I was also thinking of upgrading til I can save for the PR. I was looking at the Aussie and the Lock Rights for solid cheap traction up front. BUT, how do these lockers drive/feel around town or if the DS is disconnected like on long hwy trips.

ckivy

Saw d30 gears grenade in Moab, running 37s , I vote for a rubi take off axle and upgrades.