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Building the bullet proof 44 from stock rubicon 44

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Old 07-30-2014 | 03:22 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by rsbmg
I will just tell you what I have done. 2013 JKU Artec Trusses front and rear Artec C Gussets RCV Axles up front Ten Factory rear Riddler Diff covers new gears of course. I kept my stock axles as spares. I have not done ball joints as of yet. I'm still on my 32's so no worries there. I'm working my build backwards meaning the 37's is the last thing that will go on it. I chose to do it this way for a few reasons. One I actually enjoy driving it on 32's and wheeling with my buddies on 35's and 37's and going everywhere they do. Two, I have very little worries of breaking anything as my build progresses. Three As I do things in stages it allows me to work out any wobbles or issues that arise at each stage so I will never be guessing what my problem is. Next up is suspension which will also be done in stages then tires and wheels. Balljoints I will have and as they show wear or if one breaks I will replace them all at that time. My hope is that they just start to wear and I can replace at home but if one just goes then no worries. Hope some of that helps and I have done the math, as others have said swapping a PR44 for a Rubi 44 just doesn't make sense to me financially or mechanically. In my opinion a trussed Rubi44 as I have built it is going to be stronger than an non-trussed PR44. Some may disagree but I'm completely satisfied with my decision at this time. If you like spending money for a questionable return on investment by all means get a PR44.
What a great post! It takes a great deal of patience to do it this way. Most of us want the "look" first by getting the lift and tires first. I wheeled up in Telluride and the rental Jeeps had just a puck lift with 33's could do almost everything mine did with 37's. They scraped the bottoms more and got high centered here and there, but they all finished.
Old 07-30-2014 | 03:54 PM
  #22  
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Oh I definitely scrape and bang the underside a lot more but aside from a few dents and dings in the skid plates it's fine. A Stock jeep will make it most places with a little persistence.
Old 07-30-2014 | 05:17 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by TheDirtman
I would not waste the money on a PR44 if you are going to that much work and expense there are other better options out there. I would at least want a lock out hub up front if I were going to drop that amount of coil on an axle.

Side note how are your lockouts holding up to 40s. I was debating slugs as some people here say the hubs will blow like crazy. But not many people run lockouts here for me to see any fail...
Old 08-02-2014 | 12:11 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by TheDirtman
I would not waste the money on a PR44 if you are going to that much work and expense there are other better options out there. I would at least want a lock out hub up front if I were going to drop that amount of coil on an axle.
One can get the PR44/D60 hybrid with manual hubs
Old 08-02-2014 | 12:40 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by SoK66
One can get the PR44/D60 hybrid with manual hubs
doesnt help the ring gear, and standard is 30 spline outers still you have to pay even more to upgrade to 35 spline outers. Personally id just get a d60. It bigger axle tubes and housings and such also.
Old 08-02-2014 | 04:25 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by SoK66
One can get the PR44/D60 hybrid with manual hubs
You are correct and the difference in price between the hybrid and a full 60 is about $400. That hybrid axle with lock out hubs is over $7k and I don't see the point for that product either.
Old 09-10-2014 | 07:14 AM
  #27  
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I think this got slightly off topic.

Can you list in order what I should do from most common or basic to dramatic?
For example:
1. New stronger diff cover ~$100
2. "c" gussets ~$40 + welding
3. axles sleeves ~$120 and if your going this far consider new axles and tube seals
4. new RCV or chromoly axles
and so on

I think my Dana 44 is probably strong enough for what I do but if I can do a few things that will improve the strength that would be nice.

Are axle sleeves internal or external?

Last edited by Mschneid; 09-10-2014 at 07:25 AM.
Old 09-10-2014 | 09:53 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Mschneid
I think this got slightly off topic. Can you list in order what I should do from most common or basic to dramatic? For example: 1. New stronger diff cover ~$100 2. "c" gussets ~$40 + welding 3. axles sleeves ~$120 and if your going this far consider new axles and tube seals 4. new RCV or chromoly axles and so on I think my Dana 44 is probably strong enough for what I do but if I can do a few things that will improve the strength that would be nice. Are axle sleeves internal or external?
There are both internal and external axle sleeves. I don't think very many companies make external sleeves but there are quite a few who make internal. Just look up Teraflex's, EVO's, or Nitro's. Those are all internal and I can't remember the company that makes external but they are out there.
Old 09-10-2014 | 09:59 AM
  #29  
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you could also just shit can the factory tubes and get some dynatrac inner C's and install some bigger thicker tubes. You would just have to have the end turned down to fit in the factory housing. This would also allow you to correct your caster.
Old 09-10-2014 | 10:02 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by TreyJK
There are both internal and external axle sleeves. I don't think very many companies make external sleeves but there are quite a few who make internal. Just look up Teraflex's, EVO's, or Nitro's. Those are all internal and I can't remember the company that makes external but they are out there.
Synergy makes an external sleeve kit.



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