Building the bullet proof 44 from stock rubicon 44
#21
I will just tell you what I have done. 2013 JKU Artec Trusses front and rear Artec C Gussets RCV Axles up front Ten Factory rear Riddler Diff covers new gears of course. I kept my stock axles as spares. I have not done ball joints as of yet. I'm still on my 32's so no worries there. I'm working my build backwards meaning the 37's is the last thing that will go on it. I chose to do it this way for a few reasons. One I actually enjoy driving it on 32's and wheeling with my buddies on 35's and 37's and going everywhere they do. Two, I have very little worries of breaking anything as my build progresses. Three As I do things in stages it allows me to work out any wobbles or issues that arise at each stage so I will never be guessing what my problem is. Next up is suspension which will also be done in stages then tires and wheels. Balljoints I will have and as they show wear or if one breaks I will replace them all at that time. My hope is that they just start to wear and I can replace at home but if one just goes then no worries. Hope some of that helps and I have done the math, as others have said swapping a PR44 for a Rubi 44 just doesn't make sense to me financially or mechanically. In my opinion a trussed Rubi44 as I have built it is going to be stronger than an non-trussed PR44. Some may disagree but I'm completely satisfied with my decision at this time. If you like spending money for a questionable return on investment by all means get a PR44.
#23
Side note how are your lockouts holding up to 40s. I was debating slugs as some people here say the hubs will blow like crazy. But not many people run lockouts here for me to see any fail...
#24
One can get the PR44/D60 hybrid with manual hubs
#25
#26
#27
I think this got slightly off topic.
Can you list in order what I should do from most common or basic to dramatic?
For example:
1. New stronger diff cover ~$100
2. "c" gussets ~$40 + welding
3. axles sleeves ~$120 and if your going this far consider new axles and tube seals
4. new RCV or chromoly axles
and so on
I think my Dana 44 is probably strong enough for what I do but if I can do a few things that will improve the strength that would be nice.
Are axle sleeves internal or external?
Can you list in order what I should do from most common or basic to dramatic?
For example:
1. New stronger diff cover ~$100
2. "c" gussets ~$40 + welding
3. axles sleeves ~$120 and if your going this far consider new axles and tube seals
4. new RCV or chromoly axles
and so on
I think my Dana 44 is probably strong enough for what I do but if I can do a few things that will improve the strength that would be nice.
Are axle sleeves internal or external?
Last edited by Mschneid; 09-10-2014 at 07:25 AM.
#28
I think this got slightly off topic. Can you list in order what I should do from most common or basic to dramatic? For example: 1. New stronger diff cover ~$100 2. "c" gussets ~$40 + welding 3. axles sleeves ~$120 and if your going this far consider new axles and tube seals 4. new RCV or chromoly axles and so on I think my Dana 44 is probably strong enough for what I do but if I can do a few things that will improve the strength that would be nice. Are axle sleeves internal or external?
#29
you could also just shit can the factory tubes and get some dynatrac inner C's and install some bigger thicker tubes. You would just have to have the end turned down to fit in the factory housing. This would also allow you to correct your caster.
#30
There are both internal and external axle sleeves. I don't think very many companies make external sleeves but there are quite a few who make internal. Just look up Teraflex's, EVO's, or Nitro's. Those are all internal and I can't remember the company that makes external but they are out there.