FoxRacingJMC

So, ever since I've seen a couple threads/pics of the back cargo area with a cover/top, I've had my brain going and finally decided to take some measurements. Didn't want to go the wood approach to avoid water problems and it's not as strong as metal.

Numerous reasons for the cover/top:

1) $500 JL Audio amp/sub in back
2) $250 random tools in back
3) Doubles as a shelf.
4) Should look cool!

Measured all along lip of back area where the hard top would and where the stock hard top holes are. Measured to go around roll-bars, and measured to top of tailgate so there is about a 2" gap. Cover is going to be made out of steel, powder coated, and hinged on 2 pieces with a handle for easy access. Heavy duty weather striping will be run underneath the cover along the lip of the tub to ensure no vibration and/or scrapping of paint. Also plan on using rubber sleeves for roll-bar holes and back of seats to keep a waterproof approach. Not too sure as to what other ideas I could use with that?

Again, main goal is security...but also functionality. Didn't want to limit myself with the cover, so hopefully all my ideas and research pays off.

Open to additional suggestions. I'll keep everyone posted on my progress....

stagedtrip

Subscribed. I'm back to the part of.the year I have nothing but.time and material at work for 12 hours a day, I may follow suit

Sent from my NSA listening device

Gkarshens

I am about to build basically the same thing out of fiberglass so it doesn't weigh a ton.

Fugg it

Interested in seeing this. Just curious if it can be made durable enough and still be lightweight.

Steel would be durable but I seriously doubt the waterproof part and being able to get all this steel to fit tightly around rollbars.

That's a lot of work and money to make ur trunk waterproof and secure when your top is off....wait.....lol

FoxRacingJMC

If you think about it, the weight isn't gonna be all that bad. I drive a box on wheels, added weight was a concern that was LONG gone when i started working on my jeep. Not like it's gonna weigh 250lbs.

I have access to many types of metal, along with a CNC machine, so the work isn't gonna be all that bad either. I might even go with some aluminum, who knows. It's also going to be a "as I go..." sorta thing. Just hope all my measurements were accurate, that's all. I made a cardboard template and everything seems to line up just fine, so that's a start.

As far as the waterproof approach, why not? Heavy duty water striping underneath and some sort of sleeve around the roll-bar area. Might not be a super water tight seal, but enough to take care of any water that does get in the back. I don't plan on running without the top just because Im gonna make this, so it won't be seeing tons of rain.

Overall, it's not all that much money or work when you have the resources at your fingertips. The metal, cutting machine, powder coating machine, and all hardware are all readily available. Yea, I know people made them already with Diamond plate, aluminum, etc... But I don't feel like spending anything more than $50. Hence the reason why I have all the materials and tools, lol.

Gkarshens

I am not worried about the weight on the Jeep, it's when I am trying to put it on and off. I built one out of plywood and plasti-dipped it to see if I liked it. I do. So I too was going to build one out of steel and powder coat it, until my buddy the fabricator came up with the fiberglass idea. I will definitely update once we do it.

harbinger

I built a cargo deck a couple of weeks ago. I went with wood (mainly because I don't have access like you do to other materials), and because I wanted to be able to pull it out of the cargo area in the case of hauling something larger. So, I put two sets of hinges on the wider section nearest the back seat so I could fold them in and either access the cargo area with the top down or easily remove the deck. I'm putting D-rings on the four corners so I can strap things heavy down if necessary.

Good luck and post some pictures when you're done!

FoxRacingJMC

I agree with the on and off option. I'd like to be able to remove it without doing a song and dance. So, that's another thing I will be taking into account. I like the fiberglass idea, but it's not as strong as steel (or cosmetically deterring) if that makes sense at all. You see fiberglass and think you can get through it, lol. Steel - not so much. Or at least that's what I think, ha!

FoxRacingJMC

Yea, the on and off option is something I'm trying to put some more time into. I'm thinking if I make the cover with a hinge as initially stated, it will give me better access to the cargo area. The steel will be strong enough for me to place heavy things on top as well, but for large things - it would have to be removed. All in all, I don't haul too large of things, so I should be ok.

I too plan on fabricating tie-downs into the cover so I can attach a cargo net of sorts.

Davesrb

I'm in the planning/ measuring stage of this same project. My criteria are that the cover must be secure when closed, but the center section between the roll bars need to open for access. Also it needs to be water resistant. I am going to use some aluminum and steel square tube and flat's for structure. For my surface i'm going to use Divinycell cross-linked PVC foam core and play with my new vacuum bagging set up to do a carbon fiber layup. That should give me the strength, with a light weight and water resistance. The weather stripping is going to determine how water resistant the trunk becomes. Handling the area around the roll bars is the pain. It would be so much easier if I could just remove it and put it back later! Lol!