merkaba

Hey, I am trying to sort out a build for myself and would like to get some input from this forum. I have some mechanic friends who will help me build this, or i may pay a local dealer (Steves Jeep Country, in NH). I have a 2010 JKU Sahara that is completely stock. It's currently a DD and will be for the next few years. I do have a 2003 Grand Cherokee that I drive sometimes too, so I do have the ability to let it sit for a while during certain parts of the build. My original plan was below. What would you do/change and why?

37's (i really don't see myself ever going above 37's)
i'll use stock wheels unless i can't
stubby front bumper + winch (no idea on brand)
new rear bumper + tire carrier (no idea on brand, but i'd like to be able to tow light things)
3.5" RK lift - If someone could help me decide between x factor mid and x factor long arm that would be great
Build 1tons or find some 44's for axles - not sure what makes the most sense for 37's...cheapest solution to not have to worry about breaking is probably all i care about
flat fenders
rocker guards to replace the stock step
cb radio
probably more eventually, but these are the main things i want

nthinuf

Open the two threads stuck to the top of this modified area - Thoughts on Lifts and FAQs

Notice the backspace recommendations for 37" tires, you need to get them out far enough to clear the frame/components. Spacers on your stock rims won't get you there (unless you go with super thick spacers), so start looking at new rims.

You should be fine without the longarms. Put the savings toward other components.

If you have the ability, build one-tons. If not, try to find some rubicon 44's that have already been beefed up. And if you can't find any, start pricing aftermarket 60's. (this will be a judgement call based on your budget, your skills, what you can find, and what your actual needs are. But since you indicate that you want them as bullet-proof as possible, so start looking for tons, not 44's.)

TheDirtman

Make a note that if you are going to run tons it is likely you will need wheels with a different bolt pattern. Either a 5.5x5 or 8x6.5 is typical for tons.

merkaba

Thanks for the info. I'll check out the two threads. Looks like I'll be buying some rims too...not a big deal. Just figured I'd save the money if possible. I do not have the ability or the tools to build one-tons. I'd be paying someone to help me or paying a legit shop to do it. I really want to learn more about it so I'd love to do it with someone. I have neighbor mechanic who would be interested in doing it. I haven't talked to him about pricing or anything yet. I'm trying to figure out how necessary it is for me if i never plan on going bigger than 37's. PR44 seems to be another option, but price-wise building one-tons seems like it would be a pretty close price range. Just really have no idea what to do at this point.

Intentions/Needs: I drive like 15 miles per day on a normal work day. I will wheel it on weekends in NH. No crazy rock crawling. There is a little of everything out here in terms of mud, rocky woodsy stuff, water/stream/river crossings...typical new england stuff...I'll be doing a lot with the exloringnh.com group. I do not really want to go crazy and overkill on axles. I don't plan on running 40's, but I want something that I don't have to worry about breaking on a regular basis on 37's.

merkaba

Yup, got it! thanks man.

TheDirtman

Maybe you should rethink 37's. 35's with lockers and proper gearing will take you most places and will be easier on the axles and the wallet. I never broke more shit on my jeep then when I was on 37's and factory axles with 4.10 gears.

merkaba

Maybe I will. 37's is mainly for looks for me. I've seen a bunch of JKU's with 35's and they almost look small.


I was debating purchasing the below package. I could get it all for 3k. What are your thoughts on that? Seems like it would be fine for 35's...not sure about 37's though. That's a lot of stuff for a great price, especially when I'll be paying someone to do all of my work.

Built Dana 30 Axle that is sleeved both inside and out. It has had all of the stock mounts removed and new 1/4" ones welded on. Also the UCA joints have been replaced with johnny joints. Axle has a synergy front trackbar mount welded to it so it is set up for a drag link flip. Yukon 4.88s installed with a Yukon Zip locker (never been wheeled and professionally installed by CT Axle.) Also has chromoly axles and Poison Spyder Diff Cover.

Dana 44 rear axle with Yukon 4.88s and Yukon Zip Locker (Never been wheeled and professionally installed by CT Axle.) Axle has 1310 Yoke and includes a set of Ten Factory Chomoly axles and Poison Spyder Diff Cover.

Adams 1310 solid joint driveshafts.

ARB CKMA12 Air Compressor and A-Pillar switch pod and EVO mounting bracket

nthinuf

You seem to be going backwards in your thinking - from needing the peace of mind of one-tons, you are now looking at spending a chitload on another d30?

D30 / 37's / not worry about breaking. Does that math add up to you?


Auto or manual?

It is personal preference, but I would not be happy with a 3.8 auto JKU with 4.88's and 35's. On 37's? Fugetaboutit... I was actually running 5.38's with 35's for a while. (everyone has their own opinions, that's just mine)

merkaba

It doesn't add up to me based on everything I've read (the D30 + 37's + not worrying). You do get people here and there saying "I run 40's on D30 with no issues...blah blah". This is what i was thinking about doing before I thought it might be a better idea to do D44 or 1tons instead. Just figured I'd get people thoughts on that as well. I definitely am leaning towards 1tons. D44's don't seem to make sense at all. It seems like you can spend nearly the same money on 1tons. Unless I come across a good deal of someone selling some built D44's for a good price. Even then I've read bad things about Rubi 44's being similar to the D30. That's good to know about 4.88 on 37's though.

edit: it's an auto

nthinuf

Yeah, the housings are basically the same. The front rubi just has a bigger center section to fit the 44 gearset. Same tube length, tube diameter, tube thickness, they even use the same C's, hubs and brakes. So any and all strength upgrades you would want for a d30 housing, you will also want for the rubi44.

Internally, the front rubi is better, with the d44 gears, slightly upgraded inner shafts (they use the same outer shafts), the locker, and the joints are better.

But, by the time you buy a front rubi 44 and build it up, you could easily be in the ballpark of a PR/Tera 44. And if you are spending that kind of money, why not go all in for a one-ton.

There are a bunch of threads to read through in the d30 vs d44 vs d60 discussion, here are a few. It all comes down to your personal view of :
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-s...-tires-252451/
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...-build-274896/
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/spon...d-44-a-277712/
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-w...thread-259387/
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...ousing-137074/
One of my favorites - low speed, onroad just hitting a curb...
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/stoc...e-help-161915/