Adrocktt

Hello all,
I'm a lurker here and on several other forums. I'm experienced with modifying sports cars and have really enjoyed getting into the Jeep world with my wife's 2012 JK Sport Unlimited. Coming up soon, we're thinking of purchasing another car and retiring the Jeep to toy/non-DD status. At that point, I'd like to take the rig to the next level, but I want to think carefully about the build. Here's the details:

1. I'm in Houston area. The wheeling here is really mudding with some trails/hill climbing and obstacles. We do not have rock climbing of any sort in this area that I am aware of. Even the best off-road sites here will have lots of mud holes, small hills, and similar terrain. I'd like to build the rig out to the next level, but keeping in mind this will be the terrain I'll be tackling the majority of off-road use. From most of the reading I've done, most builds really cater to rock crawling and I worry the needs/goals are different for this setting.

2. Being in the city, I'll need to drive from 1-3 hours to get out to go wheeling. I'll need to keep highway use feasible and safe.

3. I think I'd prefer a staged project that I can transition to the final build and continue to work on.

That said, here's my current basic mod list on her Jeep: (I'll try to post some pictures up as well)
-Terrflex 2.5" coil lift
-17x9 Rugged ridge wheels
-35x12.5 Truxxus Radials (which cleared easy with just the lift, no significant trimming BTW)
-Trimmed Fenders, Trimmed rear pinch seams, trimmed fender liners (In prep for the next step)
-Short arm Terraflex adjustable front control arms
-Adjustable front track bar
-JKS discos
-Stock D35/D44 axels, gears, etc.
-PS Brawler Light front bumper, LOD rear/tire carrier
-Other mods (less relevant to the current questions)

Goals:
1) Would like to stay low center of gravity and not excessively lift (unless this is somehow crucial for the type of off-roading I've described is mainly available here). Current lift really results in more like 3". With cut fenders, larger tires would clear rather easy from what I can tell.

2) Debating next tire size - thinking 38x14.5 will really do the job, though I'm sure 37x12.5 or 37x13.5 is the path of least resistance. Would be open to hearing thoughts (keeping in mind goals above).

3) In swapping out to the next setup, should I just sell off my current 35s and 17x9 (4.75" offset) as a package or wear them out completely and attempt the 37-38" tire fit on the current wheels?
-Sounds like I'd need a spacer and this could limit steering?
-Any advantage to beadlocks in my type of wheeling here? I haven't air'd down much for this terrain, but maybe this would benefit me?
-Would a 35" spare even work in emergency settings with the 37-38" setup? The spare tire/wheel is completely new since my wife neglected the 5 wheel rotation idea...

4) Need to really assemble a plan for supporting mods on the next tire size.
-I understand I'll need to regear (It's a 2012 Auto). I think I've read the opinion that 5.13s would be a better idea than 5.38s?
-Is it worth bracing the front D30 (and potentially the rear D44) for the larger tire setup and running them till they fail or waiting to make the jump until I've budgeted for D60 1 ton's? I'm tempted to run the current setup at least until something breaks? Is this bad thinking?
-I currently run open diffs and do pretty well off road here. With the upgrades, I suppose this is the time for lockers. I'm aware this can lead to more stress. Should I plan for lockers? Do it right with air lockers? Needed for my terrain and goals?
-Can I get away with the 2.5-3" coil setup I currently have? If I need to change the lift, what setup would be ideal for the build goals? Can I just add on to the current components (like the adjustable arms and such)?
-Anything I'm neglecting here? Hydrosteer or West TX steering module needed? Bigger brakes warranted?

Thanks for the advice in advance. I have the funds to make the build happen and want to go about it correctly, keeping in mind my geography. I've been doing so much reading and it's hard to put it all together.

I'm donning my flame suit for fear I did something wrong here...so take it easy on a new poster!
-A

nthinuf

FAQ's and Thoughts On Lifts - stuck right to the top of this modified area...


Try extending the bumpstops or cutting to make more room before going to a taller lift. Cheaper, and less problems, than going higher. And yes, you can add more components to your current lift rather than replacing it. Considering the 38x14 tire size, don't spend a dime on housing mods/gears/lockers, just start saving for the 60's.

Decide on the axle setup before buying rims. For stock axles, you will definitely need to add either wheel spacers, or new rims with less backspace. 60's will be wider, and should use a different bolts pattern.

If you have no need for beadlocks, put that money toward the axles. Redneck Ram or PSC wouldn't be a bad idea, or read a few threads on building your own kit. Bigger brakes will come with the 60's.

You might also do a quick search for any post by Planman. There should be a link in his sig to his big tire/low cog build thread.

Adrocktt

Thanks for your reply. I have read the FAQ, a vast number of build threads/advice/info, and am trying to gather the specifics for the project.

Excellent input on the D60s, I guess I really can't avoid this route with the plan goals. That will solve the brake and wheel issues.

I'll check out Planman's build now.

Any other input and addressing the initial questions appreciated!

Invest2m4

Wow, you need to do a lot more research. Running 38x14.50 is the same as moving to 40s. My 37s rubbed with 3.5" of back space. With the 38s you'd either need to seriously limit the steering or notch the frame and get custom bent control arms. Hydro is a must or plan on shearing your steering box off the frame.

By the way, you have a D30, not a D35. And a D30 is not even close to strong enough for 38s, let alone 37s. Stick with the 35s. It works and where you live, there's no need for larger tires.

Adrocktt

I've read on several threads about the 38x14.5 being comparable to 40s in weight, clearance, etc. I am aware of this fact I swear!

It was my mistake on the D30 vs D35 typo. I fixed it in the original post. Again, my experience is in sports cars and I'm just dabbling into the off-road world. Forgive me here I was assuming from the prior post that really the right way to do this is D60 1 ton axles.

You are certainly right with 35s working well for my current needs, most wheeling around here, and is the easiest route (and my wife would fully agree with you)...but if this is just an off-road toy, why not push it further?

I'm attempting to read and research all I can, but this doesn't seem very straight forward.

So far I've gathered - Need D60s (front and rear I guess since at the very least the D30 needs to go and D44 would need bolstering at the very least?), Hydrosteer, maybe cutting to fit things. I'm OK with this route and would rather run the plans past you guys than show up with a credit card at a local off-road shop.

To give you an idea of local opinion, they've told me I can run 40s no issue on current setup with the cut fenders (and their shop showcases a bunch of jeeps on 20+" wheels on massive tires with little supporting mods). I'm a DIY type and want to learn, so guide me down the path. I just would like to make sure I'm not making a rock crawler when there's no elevation in sight and the mountains are a plane flight away....

-A