Build D44 or buy?
03-10-2011, 02:43 PM
#1
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
Build D44 or buy?
I have a Rubicon D44 with 5.13 gears, the e-locker, c-reinforcements an ARB cover, a Currie HD tie rod and the drag link flip + a sleeve that allows a stock height rig to run the normal drag link configuration.
I am now at a cross roads. I can either build the D44, buy a HD D44, or buy a D60. I already run 5x5.5 wheels and want manual hubs so any of the three routes would end up with them.
Option 1: Build existing D44 with the solid hub conversion, an ARB, new chromo inner shafts and an axle sleeve kit.
Option 2: Buy a HD 44 with the same set up as above but with full 60 outers. This should prove much stronger, but cost more.
Option 3: Buy a D 60 with everything above, but full 60 components.
I estimate the cost for #1 above to be about $4000. The cost for #2 is about $6300 and the cost for #3 is about $7200.
If I can get 1500-2000 for my axle as it sits why would I build it when I can almost step across to the new 44, or for "only" a few hundred more, get the 60 and be done with it.
I run 38" tires and about 5.5" of lift currently and don't plan to go bigger. I do plan to run front coilovers at some point. I run dual 60's on my other jeep with 37's and have never broken anything. It has coilovers.
What are your thoughts and opinions?
I am now at a cross roads. I can either build the D44, buy a HD D44, or buy a D60. I already run 5x5.5 wheels and want manual hubs so any of the three routes would end up with them.
Option 1: Build existing D44 with the solid hub conversion, an ARB, new chromo inner shafts and an axle sleeve kit.
Option 2: Buy a HD 44 with the same set up as above but with full 60 outers. This should prove much stronger, but cost more.
Option 3: Buy a D 60 with everything above, but full 60 components.
I estimate the cost for #1 above to be about $4000. The cost for #2 is about $6300 and the cost for #3 is about $7200.
If I can get 1500-2000 for my axle as it sits why would I build it when I can almost step across to the new 44, or for "only" a few hundred more, get the 60 and be done with it.
I run 38" tires and about 5.5" of lift currently and don't plan to go bigger. I do plan to run front coilovers at some point. I run dual 60's on my other jeep with 37's and have never broken anything. It has coilovers.
What are your thoughts and opinions?
Last edited by BKGM Jeepers; 03-10-2011 at 03:23 PM.
03-10-2011, 03:00 PM
#2
JK Jedi Master
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Option 1 is a waste of money. Option 2 would work, but with the manual hubs, it is so close to option 3 that it doesn't make a lot of sense. (A direct swap into an off the shelf PR44 for 2k would make sense, but not a custom build with 60 ends.)
Go for option 3.
Go for option 3.
03-10-2011, 03:17 PM
#4
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
So, #1 is sleeves, Super 44, and Spyntec?
#2 is ProRock 44 built disc to disc with lockout hubs, ARB/Super44?
#3 is Currie, Dynatrac, or Solid built disc to disc?
Do you already have hydro assist?
I'm on my phone. So, I don't see your build specs.
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
#2 is ProRock 44 built disc to disc with lockout hubs, ARB/Super44?
#3 is Currie, Dynatrac, or Solid built disc to disc?
Do you already have hydro assist?
I'm on my phone. So, I don't see your build specs.
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
03-10-2011, 03:18 PM
#5
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
03-10-2011, 03:59 PM
#7
JK Enthusiast
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if you do get a new front axle depending on the time, I may be interested. Timing is everything and cost. The other thing to think of is, why wouldn't someone else just spend the few extra $$$ and buy new. The educated person will buy the new over used.
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03-10-2011, 04:30 PM
#8
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Option 1: Build existing D44 with the solid hub conversion, an ARB, new chromo inner shafts and an axle sleeve kit. Unless you remove and re-install the factory 'C's, you still have bad castor angle. If you haven't already changed them out, at some point you'll be changing nearly every bracket on the housing. I think your $4k price is a little light unless you're doing all the work. After all the work and cash you'll have in it, it will still be a factory 44 worth less than $3k when you go to sell it.
Option 2: Buy a HD 44 with the same set up as above but with full 60 outers. This should prove much stronger, but cost more. This will cost nearly as much as a 60 but should be enough for 38's. The advantage is a much lighter housing and better ground clearance than even our ProRock 60. To date, I've heard of 1 (yes one) JK 44 front gear set failure with any size tire. The JK 44 HP front gear set has proven to be very reliable(the rear-not so much).
Option 3: Buy a D 60 with everything above, but full 60 components.
I estimate the cost for #1 above to be about $4000. The cost for #2 is about $6300 and the cost for #3 is about $7200.
If I can get 1500-2000 for my axle as it sits why would I build it when I can almost step across to the new 44, or for "only" a few hundred more, get the 60 and be done with it. This can also be a good choice as you can grow into it. It will easily support a Hemi conversion later. The 60 front will be wider than your 44 and you'll want to use spacers on your rear 44 until you upgrade it to a 60.
Option 2: Buy a HD 44 with the same set up as above but with full 60 outers. This should prove much stronger, but cost more. This will cost nearly as much as a 60 but should be enough for 38's. The advantage is a much lighter housing and better ground clearance than even our ProRock 60. To date, I've heard of 1 (yes one) JK 44 front gear set failure with any size tire. The JK 44 HP front gear set has proven to be very reliable(the rear-not so much).
Option 3: Buy a D 60 with everything above, but full 60 components.
I estimate the cost for #1 above to be about $4000. The cost for #2 is about $6300 and the cost for #3 is about $7200.
If I can get 1500-2000 for my axle as it sits why would I build it when I can almost step across to the new 44, or for "only" a few hundred more, get the 60 and be done with it. This can also be a good choice as you can grow into it. It will easily support a Hemi conversion later. The 60 front will be wider than your 44 and you'll want to use spacers on your rear 44 until you upgrade it to a 60.
I know it sounds stupid and conceited but when I spend a load of money I want to be able to see it. If I spend $,$$$ on a front end I want to be able to see that it's not stock under there. I can't tell you how many guys I've talked to that have said that after they installed their ProRocks, they would go out into the garage and stare at them for hours.
03-11-2011, 11:07 AM
#10
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