kkuntz01

So I'm looking to do lift this year and thinking maybe going with a 2.5". If I’ve read things right to limit potential drive line issues as well as try to keep a LCG.
I'm trying to stay on a budget (aren't we all?) so my thinking is to start with a basic lift, one includes adjustable front control arms and over time upgrade and ad parts to complete the lift and better dial in the suspension. I know should make sure that any kit I'm looking at includes a trackbar/track bar relocation brackets and brake lines at a minimum. Now as far as bump stops, how do I determine what length I'll need on my Jeep? Other than that, what else am I forgetting or do I need to know? For a lift I was thinking maybe go Rock Krawler as they have a solid reputation, plus provide solid foundation and pathway for upgrading. I know there are companies out there that offer that like Metal Cloak, Synergy, Teraflex as well as others. Is there really one company that stands out above the rest that I should be looking at?

Now with tires I had originally planned to go 33's. Then as I started doing research I quickly learned I’d be better off going 35's due to better value for the gains you get in clearance from not to mention the somewhat negligible difference in cost. When looking at 35's I learned it's not too much difference to go 37's (price and weight). Currently I'm not swayed either way. Honestly, why go one way over another? For a brand is there one that is a stand out brand? BFG KM2? Nitto Trail Grappler? Goodyear MTR-K? From what I’ve read, BFG’s are a great tire and do well off road but not so good on ice. They are also a little more prone to having the side wall damage. Trail Grappler’s do well in a most situations, rugged side wall, but heavier than most tires. A tradeoff for being rugged I supposed. MTR-K’s, again as tire that does pretty well in most situations, however even with the Kevlar side walls they’re still prone to sidewall damage.

Weak links: What should I be concerned about? Axles are obvious, but I don't wheel my junk too hard. How much of a concern should it be? I've read a lot of people recommending trusses and gussets. With D44 up front, could I get away with just gussets if I'm not hard on my rig? If I were to go 37's what gotcha's am I looking at. Would they be the same if I went 35's?
What are have to do's versus the probably a good ideas?

As for what type of Heep I've got, I've got a 2012 JK Unlimited Rubicon 6spd. So far I don't have much in the way of mod's except for LoD sliders, a Gobi and some skid plates. While I'm thinking of it. I'm running the EVO PROTEK skid system, how likely is it that I'm going to encounter issues with drive shaft making contact with the cross member skid?

11jeep

I have a 2011 rubi unlimited and just installed the tf 2.5 coil spring kit no control arms but a track bar relocation bracket gave me 3 inches of lift and 35 12.5 17 mastercraft courser ct on stock wheels with spidertrax spacers I love the set-up for a dp rig mostly daily driver /baby hauler for now

BlackRockBurner

It's a good plan for 35s. C gussets for the front axel. Brake line extensions work also. If you go to 37s the possibility of re-gearing raises. Suggest diff covers to protect your pumpkins.

kkuntz01

C gussets were definitely on my radar whether I went 35's or 37's route I decided on. A truss is up there as well, but don't know if I'll have budget for that.


Gearing is one of things that only I'll be able to determine
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/uplo...o-chart-12.jpg (Oddly I couldn't insert this image to the post )

As for diff covers, yeah I know they're needed, we're on our 3rd JK and knock on wood I've yet to do harm to a diff cover. Obviously I know it's just a matter of time before they are needed, more so if I start playing in bigger rocks, but I think right now in my build diff covers are lower on my list of priorities.

Nwapache

Another under discussed topic at hand welcome to the mod bug! Here are my suggestions:

Rock Krawler 2.5" - great rep, trail proven, straight forward upgrade path with same components.
35" tires- KM2's siped. Size is good balance between drive ability and off road clearance, brand is grippy but long lasting, sidewall issues are hyped up, siping makes a wonderful difference for snow etc.
Artec front truss system- covers all your needs for beefing front axle.

I advise against 37's for a couple of reasons. You increase your potential need for gears, and additional axle support. Understanding that weight isn't the issue, but increased rotational mass.


All above comments are my humble opinion, and welcome to be shredded by anyone good luck with your choices.

kkuntz01

Yeah, I had thought about siping what ever tire I end up with. It's one of those things that is pretty much a win/win for almost any driving condition.

As for the 35's or 37's, I get the impression you'll be doing the same amount of beefing up either way, well with the exception of axle shafts or u-joints or am I not thinking about everything? The biggest difference being drivability and the additional power needed to get rolling, once I'm up to speed it looks like roughly a 206rpm drop to 35's and 325rpm drop to 37's.