Budget improvements
#11
Super Moderator
I'm kind of confused by wanting to do 35's with no lift. Some have done it buy why? Is it for the cost savings or the voiding warranty concern?
If for the warranty, more things can be blamed on failures due to larger tires than adding a lift ever will. If for cost then a decent lift that will fit 35s won't cost much more than what flat fenders may run you.
If for the warranty, more things can be blamed on failures due to larger tires than adding a lift ever will. If for cost then a decent lift that will fit 35s won't cost much more than what flat fenders may run you.
#12
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I know regearing would be best to keep the acceleration more like stock, but would it be necessary? I drove it with the 33s it had on it at the dealership and I didn't feel it was to sluggish for me, but that extra 2" may be just enough to do it I wouldn't know. I looked at 33s to put back on it but I would just like to have that wide filled out look of 35s if I can.
A little of both, i for one would rather not install and uninstall a lift every time I go to the dealership if something happens for warranty work. But swapping out a set of wheels and tires isn't near as noticeable and hard. Just putting 35s on will give me axle to ground clearance and I can make them articulate for anything I would be using it for. And I actually just like the look of the 35s on stock height.
A little of both, i for one would rather not install and uninstall a lift every time I go to the dealership if something happens for warranty work. But swapping out a set of wheels and tires isn't near as noticeable and hard. Just putting 35s on will give me axle to ground clearance and I can make them articulate for anything I would be using it for. And I actually just like the look of the 35s on stock height.
Last edited by Kentucky_wrangler17; 04-09-2017 at 11:24 PM. Reason: Fix
#13
JK Jedi
I know regearing would be best to keep the acceleration more like stock, but would it be necessary? I drove it with the 33s it had on it at the dealership and I didn't feel it was to sluggish for me, but that extra 2" may be just enough to do it I wouldn't know. I looked at 33s to put back on it but I would just like to have that wide filled out look of 35s if I can.
A little of both, i for one would rather not install and uninstall a lift every time I go to the dealership if something happens for warranty work. But swapping out a set of wheels and tires isn't near as noticeable and hard. Just putting 35s on will give me axle to ground clearance and I can make them articulate for anything I would be using it for. And I actually just like the look of the 35s on stock height.
A little of both, i for one would rather not install and uninstall a lift every time I go to the dealership if something happens for warranty work. But swapping out a set of wheels and tires isn't near as noticeable and hard. Just putting 35s on will give me axle to ground clearance and I can make them articulate for anything I would be using it for. And I actually just like the look of the 35s on stock height.
#14
JK Enthusiast
The rundown with 35s and no lift:
****For me: The white jeep in the picture was a 2010 JKUR. No lift and 35s. I trimmed the fenders, pinch seams, removed the air dam and bought SpiderTrax Wheel adapters (spacers). It had Dana 44s front and back, I didn't gusset or sleeve the axels. I didn't have a tire carrier for the spare either. My offloading was weekend warrior stuff as it was my wife's daily. And because there was no change to the suspension it drove like a dream! I took it into the mountains hunting, fishing, cutting wood, snow wheeling very often. We took it to Sedona and wheeled in AZ around Sierra Vista as well. Never broke anything but I wasn't hitting up Moab or KOH. Typically very easy on the skinny peddle unless absolutely necessary. Now, in the mountains because of the 3.8L it was a little under powered at highway speeds. I would have loved a re-gear. It wasn't horrible, however a little more oomph would have been nice. The spacers aren't for articulation, its so you can turn the steering wheel from lock to lock without rubbing on your sway bar. Things that I wanted to address, gears, C gussets, and a tire carrier... Also, the flat fenders helped out a lot for articulation, I never stuffed the tire into the fender, I hit bumpstop first. NOW... when it was time to put new tires on MY jeep, I went with a 33... I have a 2009 JKUR, and the ONLY reason I didn't get 35s was the power loss with that dog of a 3.8L. However I still regret getting 33s, and wish I would have gotten 35s... Its alright though, in 40,000 miles, I will have 35s again.
What I've read: 35s on a Dana 30 isn't the preferred method. Chances are while wheeling you could bend an axel or C. People have wheeled with 35s on a 30 and been ok, others haven't been so lucky. I've heard of people messing up their swing away gate because of the weight of a 35 ruined some spot welds. Tereflex and other companies make a tire carrier if you don't want to opt for a rear bumper with one on it. I'm not familiar with what gears you have, I've read that with the 3.73s and the 3.6L you "should be fine" I think this is all personal preference. I don't think I could handle it with the 3.21s. That might be way to much of a dog.
I say if you want to, go for it... Whats the worse that can happen? You have an excuse to buy new parts and wrench on your jeep. Sounds like a win win to me.
#15
JK Enthusiast
I'm kind of confused by wanting to do 35's with no lift. Some have done it buy why? Is it for the cost savings or the voiding warranty concern?
If for the warranty, more things can be blamed on failures due to larger tires than adding a lift ever will. If for cost then a decent lift that will fit 35s won't cost much more than what flat fenders may run you.
If for the warranty, more things can be blamed on failures due to larger tires than adding a lift ever will. If for cost then a decent lift that will fit 35s won't cost much more than what flat fenders may run you.
While its true you can get a 2.5 inch lift for the price of some flats, I trimmed my fenders myself, so it cost probably $40 for the plastic pieces that hold the fender to the body, I bought extra. Also a cheep lift will probably make your jeep ride worse than stock due to the lack of adjustable CAs. I liked the stock ride, didn't want to mess that up.
At one point in time the wife had her 2010 JKUR (35s no lift) and I had a 2009 JKUR (puck lift and 33s) we took hers more often than mine just because it rode better. Someday, I when I have a little folding cash I will go out and buy a 2.5 inch lift and armor and gussets... but it won't be anytime soon.
#16
JK Enthusiast
I know regearing would be best to keep the acceleration more like stock, but would it be necessary? I drove it with the 33s it had on it at the dealership and I didn't feel it was to sluggish for me, but that extra 2" may be just enough to do it I wouldn't know. I looked at 33s to put back on it but I would just like to have that wide filled out look of 35s if I can.
A little of both, i for one would rather not install and uninstall a lift every time I go to the dealership if something happens for warranty work. But swapping out a set of wheels and tires isn't near as noticeable and hard. Just putting 35s on will give me axle to ground clearance and I can make them articulate for anything I would be using it for. And I actually just like the look of the 35s on stock height.
A little of both, i for one would rather not install and uninstall a lift every time I go to the dealership if something happens for warranty work. But swapping out a set of wheels and tires isn't near as noticeable and hard. Just putting 35s on will give me axle to ground clearance and I can make them articulate for anything I would be using it for. And I actually just like the look of the 35s on stock height.
I just read that you had 3.21s... I would probably re-gear. Or see how if feels, with the intention of adding a 4.10 or 4.88 later down the road... But once again, its all subjective.
#17
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thanks to all for the insight, ive been doing some looking around trying to find my best option between 33-35s to get the wide tire and stance look and not make them look to small with no fenders or narrow fenders. ive found a few in between options that im looking at, so ill throw these out there to see what the consensus is on these sizes with 3.21 gears.
295/70r17 trail grappler
305/70r17 ridge grappler
315/70r17 extreme country
i know the 315 is only a .5 difference from a 35 but i seen a couple people who said that was enough to make a little difference but i dont know for sure. theyll be on 17x8.5 sota S.S.D. wheels with a 3.49 backspacing. so with these thoughts i believe i will make my final decision lol.
295/70r17 trail grappler
305/70r17 ridge grappler
315/70r17 extreme country
i know the 315 is only a .5 difference from a 35 but i seen a couple people who said that was enough to make a little difference but i dont know for sure. theyll be on 17x8.5 sota S.S.D. wheels with a 3.49 backspacing. so with these thoughts i believe i will make my final decision lol.
#18
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I would still very possibly regear but unless I win the lottery I won't be able to do it any time soon lol. So I want to be able to live without hating myself until then and still get the look I want or as close as possible.
#19
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I did 33s and hated the way the auto shifted with the 3:21 gears. Rpms too low, shifting down on hills and in the wind. Just installed 4:88s and I love it. Will eventually go to 35s and still will be good.
#20
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how was your mpg with the 33s and 3.21 gears vs the 4.88s? i was thinking when i do i was gonna do the yukon 4.11s. I want to get the accelartion and power but remain at the best fuel mileage i can because it will still be mainly my DD.