rob_engineer

I hear ya, but for me, I typically put new brake pads on without doing anything at all to the rotors, unless they are scored or warped. I changed many dozens of brakes in my life and this works well for me. I generally get 100k miles on a set of rotors without any maintenance to those rotors, assuming the pads were changed before and damage occurred. I then figure that the rotors made it to 100k, so it's time for new ones.

resharp001

I agree with Rob on this one. I don't believe in turning rotors myself. Never had luck with that. When the rotors are in need of turning, that money is better spent towards new rotors. Assuming the rotors aren't an issue, I slap new pads on and keep on going. On other non-performance cars I've gotten to just buying cheaper rotors which I view as disposable. They are pretty much the same cost as having old rotors turned.

Maui BeachBum

I've used the Powerstop z36 (pads & rotors, used stock calipers) on my 2 door with 37s and they've worked fine for me. No problems whatsoever, even heading down long steep mountains. Might be a good option for about $350

Reddout99

What brake pads have you guys had luck with?

rob_engineer

I recently put car quest wearever platinum ceramic on my 2014 jk. I'm happy with them. On my 2012 I used hawk LTS pads. They stopped amazingly well but produced copious amounts of dust. Ceramic is not supposed to produce so much dust. I've wondered if maybe someone swapped the pads in the box. The fronts were much more dusty than the rear, which doesn't make sense because the Jku brakes in the rear wear out faster than the front due to biasing.

resharp001

I've used Akebono ceramics on previous rear jeep axle and on my other fleet of 5 cars (wife and kids) and have always had good luck with those, but I would always defer to others here with high mileage and long JK ownership history in regard to brakes as my build is far from stock + large tires.

Sixty4x4

Agree with Resharp and Rob - that is about turning rotors. When that is done you are removing metal that is supposed to absorb the heat produced whilst braking. Leads to brakes heating up a bit more (not my opinion this is science at work) and leading to brake issues faster.
Like Rob I just replace pads.
If there is shudder in the brakes throw the rotors and get new ones. Also something overlooked a lot is seized caliper floating pins or seized pistons in the caliper. Either of these two events also dictate throw away as well. Hope this helps someone doing or contemplating a brake job.

Sv_dude

Turning rotors only takes a few thousandths of an inch off the rotor, not a huge deal. If that little bit causes a heat issue then you would have a heat issue regardless. There’s nothing wrong with replacing rotors instead of turning them. I’ve done it if I bought a used vehicle with unknown rotors. But if I installed the rotors new and had a funky pad that caused a little damage, then I’ll turn it if I can.

Just my .02

Boat211

I use the hawk Lts pads and they definitely bite well, but produce a ton of dust. Calipers are cheap I just picked up a rear one from autozone for 54 bucks.

Sixty4x4

I agree with you SV_Dude but what I should have said with bad warping or deep grooves the rotors are quite often taken down near minimum width which is what I was referring to. But also I turf them because they have had so many heat cycles in their life and the price is not bad for new rotors.