Got it at a good price through 4wp, i know it's a budget kit, but that's all i could afford for now, it's the one that comes with the re-branded 5100's front and rear, from RE web site, i see the part list:

2 RM60450 Front coil spring
2 RM60470 Rear coil spring
1 RE1380 Front bump stop kit
1 RE1387 Rear bump stop pad
1 RE1607 Rear upper Track Bar Bracket
1 RE1478 JK Alignment plate set
2 HWC11083 Shock hardware: Bar Pin
2 RM40360 Lower Shock Sleeve
1 RE1158 Extended Rear Sway Bar End Link Kit

Before i get this installed, i wanted to ask, what else should i buy to run it at the expected height (from what i've read around here, it'll go 3" and change up) to adjust it to the proper geometry, assuming the geometry will get all messed up ?

This is my first vehicle with a live axel in the front, i'm used to IFS front, live axel rear, so when i lift such vehicles, i know i'll need an aftermarket UCA to correct the front geometry so camber and caster can run within proper specs, with a front live axel, what would the equivalent set of parts to correct for this ?


I'm running 33's so i can use my factory bumpstops correct ?
The shocks have the same specs for the 5100's for a small lift:

RE Front Shocks: RXJ713, 24.14" extended, 14.8" collapsed
RE Rear Shocks: RXJ714, 25" extended, 15.39" collapsed

RE Front 2.5" Springs: RM60450, 185lbs/inch, 18.3" Free Length
RE Rear 2.5" Springs: RM60470, 230lbs/inch, 15.4" Free Length

I'm thinking to buy the JKS disconnects tomorrow, with this soch specs, i shouldn't have any issues with the driveshaft correct ?
what else should i buy to keep it basic, and have good on-road/off road behavior ?
From what i've read, people say to not use the cam alignment plates form the kit, what can i buy to replace those the proper way ?

Thanks a lot

Edited 09/16/2015
Removed RE upper track bar bracket and replaced with TF rear lower track bracket.
with 33's,
a 1" bump stop can be used to maximize up travel in the rear
Same with the front, some rubbing might occur, so you may shave your factory flares.

Heigh Measurements (150lbs in the nose with stubby/winch, and Rubicon sliders/ACE sliders)
Front Driver: 24 1/4
Front Passenger: 24"
Rear Driver: 23 3/4
Rear Passenger: 23 1/2

 

The front axle will be off-center. If you want to correct it, look at an adjustable trackbar.

For the caster, you are correct that many people discourage cam bolts. If you choose not to use them, get 'one' set of adjustable control arms for the front. Lowers are the preferred set to get if you only get one, but uppers would work also. (to raise the caster: lowers will be adjusted longer than stock length, uppers will be adjusted shorter then stock length)

Camber- If you get it aligned and the camber is off, you probably bent the c's or the housing. Read a few threads on c gussets.

Driveshafts shouldn't be an issue. But - make a habit of crawling underneath and looking as part of normal maintenance just in case.

Bumpstops are in the list of components. Use whatever they send, then find someplace to flex it once you get the lift on. And again when you get the disconnects on.

 

Thanks a lot nthinuf,

I'll look into the adjustable trackbars, besides JKS, is there another preference with good prices ?

Also, i guess i'll just need to replace the front one as only the front axle will be offcenter?
Same for the lower control arms, in my Toyota FJ, i went with them because the factory ones are like toothpicks, and we need the extra strength to play in the rocks with them , so i'm assuming i'll only need LCA's for the front ? or should i buy the entire set front and rear ?

I see in the JKS website, that they have a "control arm correction & 2" bump stop extension", part# JKS6200, would this make the same function that the adjustable LCA's will do? any reason to do LCA's over this control arm correction brackets or the opposite?


As for the bumpstops, the instructions in the RE kit say the following:
Application information:
• This kit is designed for the use of 35” diameter tires or smaller. If 35” tires areto be installed, it is recommended to use 35” x12.50” tires on an 8”-9” widewheel with an offset of 0 to 12mm+.
• If 33” tires or smaller are to be installed, the installation of the bump stops canbe omitted to allow for more compression travel.

And i'm also looking the thought of using diff shocks in the kit, (just because the specs for the rear ones have 9" of travel), i was checking the OME 2" kit, and the specs in the OME shocks will put me at 11" of travel in rear.

Bistein 5100 rear are (24-146715) : 25" extended, 15.3" compressed
OME 60067 (OME recommended shock for their 2.25" spring for the JK's) are 24.37"e extended, but 12.51" compressed.

What are your thoughts here? would it be worth it ?, i'll call Rubicon Express and see if can get the free length specs of their springs to make sure i'll be able to use this shock or any other shock with similar specs, i'll assume so but we'll see.

I was checking with Rock Krawler specs in their 2.5" flex kit with the 5100's, and it seems everybody uses the same 5100 specs for their 2.5" kits,
Front 5100: (24-146708)
Rear 5100: (24-146715)

So i'm assuming the re-branded specs on the RE kit will be fine
Front RE: RXJ73: 24.14 extended, 14.8" compressed
Rear RE: RXJ714: 25" extended, 15.3 compressed.

 

Looking around in pictures, i'd guess the correction brackets will diminish clearance at the LCA mounts as they seem to push that down at least 2", i'll be dragging those things all over the place, it seems the most beneficial way would be to get aftermarket adjustable LCA's, and adjust the front accordingly, at least from what i can see in pictures.
man, i have so much to learn about this platform, i'm dreaming about Jeep mods now, my problem is not having enough money to make those dreams a reality quick enough

 

There is a good over-view thread stuck to the top of this Modified tech area.

The kit has a rear trackbar bracket that recenters that axle. It does not include anything for the front, that I saw anyway. So yes, you'll only need to center the front. (also, check the specific bracket that is included for the rear. Some of them are badly designed and add extra leverage/stress to the already weak stock bracket. They can tend to rip off the frame...)

One set of arms will 'tilt' the housing to adjust caster/pinion. The second set can be used to fine tune, and also to reposition the entire housing forward/backward in the wheel well. At 2.5", there is no need for both uppers and lowers. And there should be no need to adjust the pinion angle in the rear, so don't worry about that arms. (add the other sets later if you choose)

CA drop brackets get a lot of good reviews for the handling benefits. But as you noted, they do hang lower. Judgement call.

Bumpstop height is more of a science than just reading a blurb from the mfg. Depends on actual tire size, which flares you run, the collapsed length of both the coils and the shocks, whether you run a flip, even axle centering (both side to side and front to back) could play into it. I think both Dirtman and Invest? (forgot the rest of his sig) have made posts recently on how to figure this out, look for a few posts on it.



If you are considering adding/deleting/changing components, why are you looking at that specific lift? Why not just find one that has everything you want already in it?

 

I have the same kit.Been using it for a couple months now with 33" tires.

You don't need a front track bar and do not install the rear track bar bracket.The rear track bar bracket is made for 3.5 lifts and up only.
I installed it and it threw the axle a inch off center and destroyed my right rear shock.I called RE only to be informed that I should take it off as its only made for 3.5" and up LOL.

If you are running 33" tires you do not need the front and rear bumpstops.All you need is the coils and rear sway bar links.

Please call RE before you install the rear bracket before you damage the shock.

The coils I am very pleased with,IMO they ride great.

 

I had the rear upper track bar bracket,If you have the lower track bar bracket then its probably fine.Sorry I misread your post.

 

Thanks a lot dude, i had forgotten about that thread, it was refreshing to read it again as it basically covers some of the basic questions i had.

 

I haven't opened the box yet, but i have the RE kit in my garage, i'll be ordering the JKS disconnects, and Synergy front LCA's
You're the 2nd person who told today me the front track bar won't be needed with this lift, and have used the provided rear track bar brackets with zero issues.

Once i recover from this expenditure round, i'll the rear LCA

 

Yeah the axle is still centered with only 2.5" coils.Maybe a 1/4" off but no noticeable difference.

I feel like it drives as good as,or even better than stock.