body lift
#13
Hi Guys,
I'm looking at putting in a 1" body lift as well, i've got the 4door manual Aussie version. Is there any issues with hoses needing to be lengthened (I.E fuel filler etc)
I'm looking at putting in a 1" body lift as well, i've got the 4door manual Aussie version. Is there any issues with hoses needing to be lengthened (I.E fuel filler etc)
#14
1"
just did my daystar 1" and am very happy. however in considering a body lift you must recognize that the larger you go the more of a gap you will see between the body and frame, furthermore if you have a manual you will have a shorter gearshift rod and will have to do some inner boot trimming to keep the lower gears from popping out. you can move up the stock bumper to close the gap but only a max of 1" . so with a 1 1/4 u may still have a visable gap in the rear. in my opinion daystar makes a good quality poly body lift.
#15
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Camby, IN
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I have Installed and removed body lifts on trucks, and think they can be a royal pain if you ever have to remove one. If the kit uses Plastic spacers, such as performance accessories 3 in truck kits. I have found the pucks love to hold water and cause the included bolts to seize in place. My advice, if you have to run a body lift, is to find a taller body mount/bushing kit, or buy a can of Anti-seize and apply a lot of it to each body bolt. I speak from some very bad experiences. I just lifted a buddy's truck 6 inches and removed his 3 inch body lift. Every bolt on the bed was seized in the puck. Every bolt had to be cut and extracted. This took us over 8 hours on just the bed. This kit was only on for about a year and a half.
#16
Body lift reply
What I would do is get the cheaper RC 11/4" kit and also as you are saving a bit of $$ get the 1 1/4" body lift kit from rugged ridge!!
You will see in the future that you will need more and more lift, so get them both if you can!
You will see in the future that you will need more and more lift, so get them both if you can!
#17
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Chicago, IL
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I have Installed and removed body lifts on trucks, and think they can be a royal pain if you ever have to remove one. If the kit uses Plastic spacers, such as performance accessories 3 in truck kits. I have found the pucks love to hold water and cause the included bolts to seize in place. My advice, if you have to run a body lift, is to find a taller body mount/bushing kit, or buy a can of Anti-seize and apply a lot of it to each body bolt. I speak from some very bad experiences. I just lifted a buddy's truck 6 inches and removed his 3 inch body lift. Every bolt on the bed was seized in the puck. Every bolt had to be cut and extracted. This took us over 8 hours on just the bed. This kit was only on for about a year and a half.
#18
JK Junkie
this doesn't make any sense, are you suggesting that he could stack body lifts? that's just not even possible, do you know what you're talking about?
#19
Instead of starting a new thread, hoping someone will be able to answer my question here.
How important is it to install a BL on flat level ground? I ask because I live on a hill and while the upper portion of our driveway isnt as steep as the rest, it's still at a slight grade. If I'm in neutral, the Jeep will roll back very slowly.
Whenever I change the oil, I use wheel chocks just in case.
So.. if I were to use wheel chocks, is there any reason why I shouldnt install a BL myself?
How important is it to install a BL on flat level ground? I ask because I live on a hill and while the upper portion of our driveway isnt as steep as the rest, it's still at a slight grade. If I'm in neutral, the Jeep will roll back very slowly.
Whenever I change the oil, I use wheel chocks just in case.
So.. if I were to use wheel chocks, is there any reason why I shouldnt install a BL myself?