Bilstein 5100 Install
02-08-2012, 07:03 PM
#11
JK Jedi
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I just installed the same 5100's replacing my RC 2.2's on my rig last week. I had the EXACT same issue. I removed the boot and boot ring, couldn't get the threads started with that ring on. I too wonder if it's absolutely necessary to have that thick boot ring on... So far, my shocks are working fine without the rings.
02-08-2012, 08:47 PM
#13
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I took the boot off and left the boot ring on - I thought it was a more sturdy base for the washer and rubber bushing. I had plenty of thread length on the top. Strange indeed!
I replaced a set of 5100's with a longer set and they were both the same - plenty of thread for the top nut.
I replaced a set of 5100's with a longer set and they were both the same - plenty of thread for the top nut.
02-08-2012, 10:49 PM
#14
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I think everyone's making it more difficult than it is. You can leave the boot on. Take the shock, and install the bottom/axle side first, but dont tighten it. Then raise the axle slowly until the threads -- with a washer and rubber spacer -- pass through the mounting tab. Add the second spacer and washer. There will be VERY little thread showing until you use the weight of the vehicle or plain old muscle to compress the spacers a bit. Once you get the nut started, then you simply hold the nut still with an open-ended wrench, and use the appropriate sized allen key from the top (through the engine bay) to twist the stud, in turn tightening the nut. Tighten as far as your little heart desires -- the rubber spacers will simply continue to smash.
-Adam
-Adam
Last edited by isolated1523; 02-09-2012 at 12:19 AM.
02-08-2012, 11:28 PM
#15
Originally Posted by isolated1523
I think everyone's making it more difficult than it is. You can leave the boot on. Take the shock, and install the bottom/axle side first, but dont tighten it. Then raise the axle slowly until the threads -- with a washer and rubber spacer -- pass through the mounting tab. Add the second spacer and washer. There will be VERY little thread showing until you use the weight of the vehicle or plan old muscle to compress the spacers a bit. Once you get the nut started, then you simply hold the nut still with an open-ended wrench, and use the appropriate sized allen key from the top (through the engine bay) to twist the stud, in turn tightening the nut. Tighten as far as your little heart desires -- the rubber spacers will simply continue to smash.
-Adam
-Adam
02-09-2012, 02:23 AM
#16
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I think everyone's making it more difficult than it is. You can leave the boot on. Take the shock, and install the bottom/axle side first, but dont tighten it. Then raise the axle slowly until the threads -- with a washer and rubber spacer -- pass through the mounting tab. Add the second spacer and washer. There will be VERY little thread showing until you use the weight of the vehicle or plain old muscle to compress the spacers a bit. Once you get the nut started, then you simply hold the nut still with an open-ended wrench, and use the appropriate sized allen key from the top (through the engine bay) to twist the stud, in turn tightening the nut. Tighten as far as your little heart desires -- the rubber spacers will simply continue to smash.
-Adam
-Adam
02-09-2012, 02:54 AM
#17
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Another tip-- the top of the shocks arent immediately reachable through the engine bay. On the passenger side, you have to unbolt and move the plastic box out of the way (pretty sure it was the main fusebox), and on the driver's side there is a small plastic tab that you can snap off to get straight down access to the shock studs. Takes about an extra 10 min of work, but it makes tightening the shocks way easier than using a normal allen wrench.
02-09-2012, 06:41 AM
#18
JK Super Freak
This is the 3rd thread that I have seen on this exact issue with the 5100's
Conclusion was always, put some muscle in to it, crank it down, and they fit.
We have once again, come full circle.
Have 4 5100's at home, waiting to be installed, once my Rock Krawler lift arrives...
Can't wait to deal with this problem, first hand.
Maybe I will make my own thread if i have difficulty ;o)
I will take pics and do a little write-up on the "muscle in and crank down" method.
Conclusion was always, put some muscle in to it, crank it down, and they fit.
We have once again, come full circle.
Have 4 5100's at home, waiting to be installed, once my Rock Krawler lift arrives...
Can't wait to deal with this problem, first hand.
Maybe I will make my own thread if i have difficulty ;o)
I will take pics and do a little write-up on the "muscle in and crank down" method.
02-09-2012, 06:53 AM
#19
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This is the 3rd thread that I have seen on this exact issue with the 5100's
Conclusion was always, put some muscle in to it, crank it down, and they fit.
We have once again, come full circle.
Have 4 5100's at home, waiting to be installed, once my Rock Krawler lift arrives...
Can't wait to deal with this problem, first hand.
Maybe I will make my own thread if i have difficulty ;o)
I will take pics and do a little write-up on the "muscle in and crank down" method.
Conclusion was always, put some muscle in to it, crank it down, and they fit.
We have once again, come full circle.
Have 4 5100's at home, waiting to be installed, once my Rock Krawler lift arrives...
Can't wait to deal with this problem, first hand.
Maybe I will make my own thread if i have difficulty ;o)
I will take pics and do a little write-up on the "muscle in and crank down" method.
02-09-2012, 07:20 AM
#20
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Sneck,
Not positive but I "think" you void your lieftime warranty on your shocks by removing the rubber boot. I was going to do mine but never got around to it and then had a rear shock start leaking on me. Easy warranty replacement but my buddy that handled the swap for me told me it was good that I hadn't removed the boot or it would not have been covered.
Not a big deal as you can replace a shock for $75 or so but thought I'd mention this. If anyone else believes that this is wrong, please let me know as I would still love to remove the boots off mine but after one shock failure, my confidence level is a bit shaken to risk the lifetime warranty.
Not positive but I "think" you void your lieftime warranty on your shocks by removing the rubber boot. I was going to do mine but never got around to it and then had a rear shock start leaking on me. Easy warranty replacement but my buddy that handled the swap for me told me it was good that I hadn't removed the boot or it would not have been covered.
Not a big deal as you can replace a shock for $75 or so but thought I'd mention this. If anyone else believes that this is wrong, please let me know as I would still love to remove the boots off mine but after one shock failure, my confidence level is a bit shaken to risk the lifetime warranty.