Originally Posted by planman

I'd rather see somebody do a 2.5 inch lift, and skip an adjustable front track bar and front lower control arms, so that they can allocate those funds towards regearing, lockers or limited slips, a tuner/programmer, rocker panel armor, a winch, etc. If they want more height for looks, I'd rather see them trim their flares flat or run a 1" body lift so they could prioritize regearing, etc. I think it is poor prioritization when people on a limited budget blow it on an incomplete, taller-than-needed lift, plus bling wheels and tires, so they don't have enough to regear, run a tuner/programmer, get armor and a winch, etc.

Originally Posted by planman

A 3.5" lift for a 2 dr JK should include at a minimum:

Front adjustable trackbar
Front lower adjustable control arms
Longer shocks
Extended bumpstops
Longer brakelines or front and rear relocation brackets
Rear raised axle side trackbar bracket
Rear lower coil degree correction wedges
Rear lower coil retainers
Springs that net 3.5" in the front and less than 3.5" in the rear on a 2 dr (usually net 1" less on a 4 dr)
Longer rear swaybar links
Longer front swaybar links or swaybar quick disconnect links

A 3.5" lift that doesn't include these things at a minimum is insufficient.

Originally Posted by rubi08unlimited

I agree completely but have a question about the coil degree correction wedges. they came in my kit but my installer didn't use them. Are they necessary?

Originally Posted by planman

Not required for a 4 dr with a stock rear driveshaft.

Your rear springs will bow back a little and run softer due to the bow.

They are a bigger need for a 2 dr at that height, especially if you run an aftermarket driveshaft and run rear upper adjustable control arms.

Originally Posted by rubi08unlimited

i get it now, in case you clock the axle back to correct pinion angle, it would cause the rear springs to bow to the rear

Originally Posted by planman

Yes. However, the axle clocks back automatically with a lift of any kind due to the arc of travel from the control arms staying fixed while the distance between the frame and the axle increases.

Originally Posted by Battlefrog21

I couldn't agree more. Drives me crazy seeing rigs on the trail with big tires and lifts without any protection or recovery capabilities.

I'm saving for a metal cloak 2.5" Dual rate ARB edition and will also put tires on at that point.

For now, I've done bumpers, winch, rock rails and diff gliders will be here in 2 days. I may not be the biggest jeep out there, but she is armored up.

If your gonna go with a lift kit, then do as planman has stated, get a kit that gives you every thing you need. Yea, my kit will run $1,600, but why spend $500 and have to keep adding.

Originally Posted by WARLOCK

Yes I agree, Going big and high is not cheap. Doing it the cheap way may lead to a lot of troubles. So if you want to be a man and play with big boys, do it right or just don't do it. I see a lot of JK with 37'' and basic 3.5-4'' lift while the rest remains stock. Those are the first to ask about death wobble and vibration or any other issues related to a poor build...

Originally Posted by Battlefrog21

Would adjustable control arms fix this?

Originally Posted by WARLOCK

Yes I agree, Going big and high is not cheap. Doing it the cheap way may lead to a lot of troubles. So if you want to be a man and play with big boys, do it right or just don't do it. I see a lot of JK with 37'' and basic 3.5-4'' lift while the rest remains stock. Those are the first to ask about death wobble and vibration or any other issues related to a poor build...