I've never used or had any experience with smittybilt, and I've heard both good and bad reviews (probably more bad,) but Qtec has a special that they'll give you a free evap skid plate with the purchase of the smittybilt engine, transmission, and transfer case skid plate purchase. I think it's like $350 shipped.

Maybe someone that has it will chime in with experience.

 

My understanding of the factory fuel tank skid is that it holds the tank to the frame. So if you remove it and add and aftermarket skid the plastic tank will move around in the aftermarket skid. Thats why most go over the stock skid. Im not sure about the larger kits like the EVO or River Raider kits but it looks like they too install over the stock skid.

The only skids I added to my Rubicon is an AEV rear diff slider, home made weld on lower control arm skids, a Poison Spyder crossmember and diff covers (which only the rear rubs with a Teraflex drop bracket. I ground a little off the tracbar and it clears now), and Im not sure what Im going to use for an engine/trans skid as of yet. Theres just too many on the market to choose from. I havent hit my EVAP yet, but skids have gone down in price for that so I might just get a Qtec one. They all look the same anyways so why spend big bucks on it.

 

Synergy Manufacturing HD Skid Plate System for 12-16 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec

Synergy Manufacturing 5714-BK - Synergy Manufacturing Gas Tank Skid Plate for 07-16 Jeep® Wrangler Unlimited JK 4 Door - Quadratec

here is what I did you will probably need to have a shop do the gas tank.

I chose this because of what I read on the forum that Steel was the way to go as aluminum will bend to easy.

 

I have several Smittybilt products on my Jeep and you definitely get what you pay for. Their powdercoating process has a tendency to flake instead of scratch. The only thing that I didn't like while researching their new skid plates is that they just have the grade 8 hardware sticking out of the crossmember. Most other skid plates either do a flush mount bolt or have a guide over the bolt.

If it is genuine grade 8 hardware you're going to have a tough time damaging the bolt head, but it is not impossible. But even with the chinese steel and powdercoating, $300 for an oil pan / transmission / t-case / evap skid is a screaming deal.

Rock Hard skid plates are what a few of my local club's members use.

 

I am running Rock Hard aluminum and am pleased with them......

 

I like Clayton belly armor... 1/4" plating.

 

anyone see the new Metalcloak skids?

 

no damage , wonder what it looks like on top side though ? rust restorer and then hit it with flex seal i think for mine . Otherwise it seams to just rust again ( hate rust ) aluminum might not be as rigid but it wouldnt turn to rust. Like you said (why add weight ) over the factory one and have both end up rusty in a year or so . id rather replace than cover

 

Just use them... I probably need to get the oil pan skid and the evap cover though...

 

i got the rubicon express oil skid , prob all ill get/ maybe a diff front skid if that