Best short arm kit
12-13-2013, 12:06 PM
#71
JK Jedi
Heres a quote from Matson also. Theres a lot of variables, but id bet most people running the mc kits are not using all the travel..Other kits like rk will not either id bet depending on everything, but in the end they will all be pretty close on most jeeps.
When we built our Overline Fenders for the with 2.5" more clearance then any other fenders on the market, we quickly discovered that, because of the limitations of typical JK shocks, you could not take advantage of all the extra clearance provided by the fenders. The shock was your limiting factor.
You are correct, that on a typical set up with, say 37's, and Overline Fenders, and 2" of bump stop, the 6Paks do not fully compress to the full 14". It is nice to know there is a little extra there. The coils will fully compress first.
When we built our Overline Fenders for the with 2.5" more clearance then any other fenders on the market, we quickly discovered that, because of the limitations of typical JK shocks, you could not take advantage of all the extra clearance provided by the fenders. The shock was your limiting factor.
You are correct, that on a typical set up with, say 37's, and Overline Fenders, and 2" of bump stop, the 6Paks do not fully compress to the full 14". It is nice to know there is a little extra there. The coils will fully compress first.
12-13-2013, 02:00 PM
#72
Forum Tech Advisor
The issues of this continued discussion are the point of my post early in this thread.
You can run 37s with flat flares with 1.25" front and 2.5" rear extended bumpstops, with trimming of the rear fender well. With 3.5" backspaced wheels, you can run 37s without losing turning radius and still clear the control arms and frame on a full lock turn.
1.25" front extended bumpstops allows all 11.5" travel of an OME LT shock.
2.5" rear extended bumpstops combined with EVO RockStar rear skids and shock relocation brackets allow all 11.5" rear shock travel, plus you get the extra ground clearance from trimming the rear lower brackets.
Either RK, Currie, or MC arms will allow the 11.5" travel without the bushing bind that you'd start to get at that level with Clevite rubber--ie Full Traction.
2.5" springs keep the COG and roll centers low.
2.5" springs also keep the front steering geometry flatter.
2.5" springs allow the use of stock driveshafts so that that money could be allocated towards a regear.
You can run 37s with flat flares with 1.25" front and 2.5" rear extended bumpstops, with trimming of the rear fender well. With 3.5" backspaced wheels, you can run 37s without losing turning radius and still clear the control arms and frame on a full lock turn.
1.25" front extended bumpstops allows all 11.5" travel of an OME LT shock.
2.5" rear extended bumpstops combined with EVO RockStar rear skids and shock relocation brackets allow all 11.5" rear shock travel, plus you get the extra ground clearance from trimming the rear lower brackets.
Either RK, Currie, or MC arms will allow the 11.5" travel without the bushing bind that you'd start to get at that level with Clevite rubber--ie Full Traction.
2.5" springs keep the COG and roll centers low.
2.5" springs also keep the front steering geometry flatter.
2.5" springs allow the use of stock driveshafts so that that money could be allocated towards a regear.
12-13-2013, 02:43 PM
#73
JK Enthusiast
I think it depends on where you/how you wheel. a True 2.5'' lift is probably not going to be ideal if you are blasting across the desert hitting whoops (I don't mean full on trophy truck or coilover suspension so lets not get to crazy). You need the uptravel. Likewise if you are wheeling big rocks you need belly clearance or you are just going to sit there high centered.
I am of course keeping the discussion to a production vehicle with off the shelf suspension. This could go all kinds of crazy.
We build for the terrain we are on, or we should. I'm not saying the LCOG approach is not a great idea I'm just saying it has limitations that I have experienced and or seen.
I am of course keeping the discussion to a production vehicle with off the shelf suspension. This could go all kinds of crazy.
We build for the terrain we are on, or we should. I'm not saying the LCOG approach is not a great idea I'm just saying it has limitations that I have experienced and or seen.
12-13-2013, 04:16 PM
#74
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Dirtman's sticky thread that was meant to reduce these kinds of threads, but I'll go ahead and answer what I would do with your parameters.
Build with 35s:
Flat flares, with a little trimming of the rear fender well pinch seam and a front stubby bumper.
4.5" backspaced wheels.
Old Man Emu long travel shocks from Northridge4x4. They are 11.5" travel shocks that are fairly soft riding. The fronts are 16" collapsed and 27.5" extended. The rears are 16.5" collapsed and 28" extended.
You can run these shocks with 1.25" front extended bumpstops. JKS has front extended bumpstops that size that bolt to the lower coil perches.
I'd run EVO RockStar skids (or similar) on the rear axle that relocate the rear lower shock mounts up about 1.5" and provide more ground clearance.
With the RockStar skids, the rear OME LT shocks need about 2.5" extended bumpstops. I'd either do Rock Krawler weld-on adjustables or Teraflex 2.5" rear bolt on bumpstops.
I'd run JKS front and rear adjustable sway bar links if I had a Rubi front electronic disconnect system, or I'd run front and rear Currie Anti-Rock sway bars.
I'd need brakelines long enough for about a 5"-6" lift. I'd probably buy Crowns.
I'd probably run either Rock Krawler 2.5" triple rate coils or Metal Cloak 2.5" dual rate coils. I'd talk with Jeremy (Rock Krawler) and Matsonian (Metal Cloak) about whether I would net 2.5" with the weight of my rig with their coils. I'd also want to know if there would be a coil bind problem only running 1.25" front extended bumpstops.
I'd run rear lower coil retainers. Currie or JKS would be fine.
I'd run Teraflex front and rear adjustable track bars.
I'd run either Currie or Rock Krawler control arms--all 8.
I'd weld gussets to the front axle side trackbar bracket and do a JKS rear weld-on axle side bracket brace.
This setup would allow all 11.5" front and rear shock travel, with the lowest required extended bumpstops without further relocation of shock mounts, and with stock control arm mounting locations.
Why not more than 2.5"-3" lift? Steering, taller required extended bumpstops, and needed front shock relocation.
The closer you get to 4", the more you want a drag link flip kit for steering correction. Drag link flip kits require at least 3" front extended bumpstops--unless you are willing to cut and notch the frame. 3" front extended bumpstops are almost enough to run 40s and way too much for 37s and smaller with flat flares. To use all of 11.5" shock travel, the lower front shock mounts would need to be relocated almost 2".
What about with 37s? Same build, but I'd want 3.5" backspaced wheels so I wouldn't have to limit my steering as much. I'd need to trim the radius (front and rear) of the rear fender well pinch seams to run 37s with 2.5" rear extended bumpstops and flat flares.
What if I wanted more of a "go-fast" jeep? I'd install Teraflex SpeedBumps, and I'd use Fox or King remote reservoir shocks. I'd truss both front and rear axles. I'd run 3.5" springs so that I had more up-travel.
What if I wanted more clearance? I'd run Poison Spyder BFH front and rear bumpers that require trimming the frame horns, and I'd run larger tires instead of a taller lift.
Build with 35s:
Flat flares, with a little trimming of the rear fender well pinch seam and a front stubby bumper.
4.5" backspaced wheels.
Old Man Emu long travel shocks from Northridge4x4. They are 11.5" travel shocks that are fairly soft riding. The fronts are 16" collapsed and 27.5" extended. The rears are 16.5" collapsed and 28" extended.
You can run these shocks with 1.25" front extended bumpstops. JKS has front extended bumpstops that size that bolt to the lower coil perches.
I'd run EVO RockStar skids (or similar) on the rear axle that relocate the rear lower shock mounts up about 1.5" and provide more ground clearance.
With the RockStar skids, the rear OME LT shocks need about 2.5" extended bumpstops. I'd either do Rock Krawler weld-on adjustables or Teraflex 2.5" rear bolt on bumpstops.
I'd run JKS front and rear adjustable sway bar links if I had a Rubi front electronic disconnect system, or I'd run front and rear Currie Anti-Rock sway bars.
I'd need brakelines long enough for about a 5"-6" lift. I'd probably buy Crowns.
I'd probably run either Rock Krawler 2.5" triple rate coils or Metal Cloak 2.5" dual rate coils. I'd talk with Jeremy (Rock Krawler) and Matsonian (Metal Cloak) about whether I would net 2.5" with the weight of my rig with their coils. I'd also want to know if there would be a coil bind problem only running 1.25" front extended bumpstops.
I'd run rear lower coil retainers. Currie or JKS would be fine.
I'd run Teraflex front and rear adjustable track bars.
I'd run either Currie or Rock Krawler control arms--all 8.
I'd weld gussets to the front axle side trackbar bracket and do a JKS rear weld-on axle side bracket brace.
This setup would allow all 11.5" front and rear shock travel, with the lowest required extended bumpstops without further relocation of shock mounts, and with stock control arm mounting locations.
Why not more than 2.5"-3" lift? Steering, taller required extended bumpstops, and needed front shock relocation.
The closer you get to 4", the more you want a drag link flip kit for steering correction. Drag link flip kits require at least 3" front extended bumpstops--unless you are willing to cut and notch the frame. 3" front extended bumpstops are almost enough to run 40s and way too much for 37s and smaller with flat flares. To use all of 11.5" shock travel, the lower front shock mounts would need to be relocated almost 2".
What about with 37s? Same build, but I'd want 3.5" backspaced wheels so I wouldn't have to limit my steering as much. I'd need to trim the radius (front and rear) of the rear fender well pinch seams to run 37s with 2.5" rear extended bumpstops and flat flares.
What if I wanted more of a "go-fast" jeep? I'd install Teraflex SpeedBumps, and I'd use Fox or King remote reservoir shocks. I'd truss both front and rear axles. I'd run 3.5" springs so that I had more up-travel.
What if I wanted more clearance? I'd run Poison Spyder BFH front and rear bumpers that require trimming the frame horns, and I'd run larger tires instead of a taller lift.
thanks for the info
12-13-2013, 04:40 PM
#76
JK Junkie
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Lol fair enough. I agree on the track bar. I won there bracket and its a 6.5" raise in the rear! Its obsurd. It allowed me to make a 1.5od x 1/4 wall track bar STRAIGHT across, no need for all the stupic bends. Id rather have the rear trackbar bracket match the lift height though also... Not be different from the front. Half the people posting reviews are people who have just read what they typed. As I said im sure there fine, but not for me. Also they dont make them in the length i need id have to make them work fabbing them myself anyway, not worth it. IMO you want a better ride in a 2 door stretch it, on a 4 door not much will be noticable, but maybe im just not picky enough...
12-13-2013, 04:48 PM
#77
JK Jedi
